help me please
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: fort stewart, georgia
Car: 85 z28
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: auto
Axle/Gears: stock, 3.23
help me please
hey whatsup, i am completly new to these camaros.
i used to own a 91 300zx.
now i have a 1985 TPI z28. it has a 305.
114k miles.
i am having small issues now, but before i explain it, i will list every part that ive personally replaced, even if it has nothing to do with it.
-flowmaster 80 series muffler, along with 3' pipes
-fuel pressure regulator diaphram
-idle air valve
-fuel filter
-accell 8.8 plug wires
-oem spark plugs
-o2 sensor
-ignition control module
-rotor
-acell coil
-transmission mount
-throttle position sensor
-coolant sensor
-timing is set a 6
-mild shift kit
- AND i think i need to get a new oil pressure sending unit, cause my oil guage always stays at zero.
but okay, the problem i am having.
on a cold start up, with 1/2 second, it fires right up!!
and runs good.
but once i shut it down, and let it sit for maybe..10 minutes? and try to start, i have to turn the key about 7-10 seconds, sometimes i gotta stop, and re turn it again. then itll start, sometimes it blows smoke, white cloudy smoke. but smells like gas or exhaust idk..
but if i shut it down, and let it sit for maybe, 2-4 minutes? it will fire right back up!
i have a auto tranny, so i drive in OD, and sometimes after it shifts gears, it feels funny.
like trying to drive 20 mph, in 4th gear in a stick shift.
but if i push the gas a little more, the engine revs and goes.
i just recently changed the tps, and i dont think the voltage is right, i have to set that, but i dont think that will cause it..
i did a fuel pressure test at schrader valve, i turned the car to the on position, it shot to 40. but within 10 minutes, it was down at like 12 psi.
the car dont miss or anything,
sometimes after its warmed up good, stopping at a redlight, my voltage drops, and sometimes idle fluctuates. but i think that is causes by offset tps..
but anyways, can you guys please help me on my hard warm start problem.
yes, ive searched ad searched.. and i changed everything ive read..
im lost, and frustrated.
car runs good. its just that tiny problem.
thanks guys.
i used to own a 91 300zx.
now i have a 1985 TPI z28. it has a 305.
114k miles.
i am having small issues now, but before i explain it, i will list every part that ive personally replaced, even if it has nothing to do with it.
-flowmaster 80 series muffler, along with 3' pipes
-fuel pressure regulator diaphram
-idle air valve
-fuel filter
-accell 8.8 plug wires
-oem spark plugs
-o2 sensor
-ignition control module
-rotor
-acell coil
-transmission mount
-throttle position sensor
-coolant sensor
-timing is set a 6
-mild shift kit
- AND i think i need to get a new oil pressure sending unit, cause my oil guage always stays at zero.
but okay, the problem i am having.
on a cold start up, with 1/2 second, it fires right up!!
and runs good.
but once i shut it down, and let it sit for maybe..10 minutes? and try to start, i have to turn the key about 7-10 seconds, sometimes i gotta stop, and re turn it again. then itll start, sometimes it blows smoke, white cloudy smoke. but smells like gas or exhaust idk..
but if i shut it down, and let it sit for maybe, 2-4 minutes? it will fire right back up!
i have a auto tranny, so i drive in OD, and sometimes after it shifts gears, it feels funny.
like trying to drive 20 mph, in 4th gear in a stick shift.
but if i push the gas a little more, the engine revs and goes.
i just recently changed the tps, and i dont think the voltage is right, i have to set that, but i dont think that will cause it..
i did a fuel pressure test at schrader valve, i turned the car to the on position, it shot to 40. but within 10 minutes, it was down at like 12 psi.
the car dont miss or anything,
sometimes after its warmed up good, stopping at a redlight, my voltage drops, and sometimes idle fluctuates. but i think that is causes by offset tps..
but anyways, can you guys please help me on my hard warm start problem.
yes, ive searched ad searched.. and i changed everything ive read..
im lost, and frustrated.
car runs good. its just that tiny problem.
thanks guys.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,736
Likes: 14
From: Not in Kansas anymore
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 383 SP EFI/ 4150 TB
Transmission: T400
Axle/Gears: QP 9" 3.73
Re: help me please
once i let it sit for maybe..10 minutes? and try to start,
i have to turn the key about 7-10 seconds, sometimes i gotta stop, and re turn it again.
then itll start, sometimes it blows smoke, white cloudy smoke. but smells like gas
i did a fuel pressure test within 10 minutes, it was down at like 12 psi.
i have to turn the key about 7-10 seconds, sometimes i gotta stop, and re turn it again.
then itll start, sometimes it blows smoke, white cloudy smoke. but smells like gas
i did a fuel pressure test within 10 minutes, it was down at like 12 psi.
Sounds like they are leaking fuel ( the cause of the pressure drop ) and flooding the engine when you go to do a hot restart.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: fort stewart, georgia
Car: 85 z28
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: auto
Axle/Gears: stock, 3.23
Re: help me please
just those 8 injectors??
cause yeah sometimes i do smell like a gassy/coolant smell under my hood.
point me in the right direction of some good ones?
stock injectors would be fine, but like i said, im new too these cars.
i dont know much.
so until i get around to changing them, is there anything i can do to make it start faster?
when the pressure dropped, i thought it was my fuel pump, but i always hear it prime when i turn the key over.
then i was reading something about my oil sending unit could be causing it, and it dont work.
so i was just all confused on this car.
Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 306
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas
Car: 1985 El Camino Choo Choo
Engine: L31 Crate 350 w/ TPI
Transmission: GN 200-4r
Axle/Gears: GN 8.5 3.73
Re: help me please
I would get the TPS adjusted, and then re-check you IAC setup. Those work hand in hand, and one bad setting can cause all sorts of drive-ability problems. Once those are corrrect, and you still ahve the starting issue, I would be looking at either the injectors or the cold start injector for a leak.
Oil Pressure sender would not affect the Fuel flow, but the Oil Pressure switch, located behind the distributor could, as it prevents the fuel pump from running until you get oil pressure. That's why the pump primes for 2 seconds, and then stops. Fuel Pump won't run again until the Oil Pressure rises enough to close that switch. May be why you need to crank for a while, to get enough oil pressure from cranking to close the switch and turn on the fuel pump. You could test this when the car is hot and likely to have this problem, by applying 12V to the "G" terminal of the ALDL connector, causing the pump to run. Then try starting the car. If it starts easily, the issue would likely be with the pressure switch or connections. .
Oil Pressure sender would not affect the Fuel flow, but the Oil Pressure switch, located behind the distributor could, as it prevents the fuel pump from running until you get oil pressure. That's why the pump primes for 2 seconds, and then stops. Fuel Pump won't run again until the Oil Pressure rises enough to close that switch. May be why you need to crank for a while, to get enough oil pressure from cranking to close the switch and turn on the fuel pump. You could test this when the car is hot and likely to have this problem, by applying 12V to the "G" terminal of the ALDL connector, causing the pump to run. Then try starting the car. If it starts easily, the issue would likely be with the pressure switch or connections. .




