Hi, i was looking around and was wondering what would need to be done on my l98 tpi for making it in the high 7s on the 1/8 mile. engine is kind of stock for now...just instaled a set of 2055 header and a 3inch magnaflow line with a cut out instead of the cat.
Some advice would be really appreciated

just got on the track last weekend and my tire was spinning for the first 60feet lol ...guess i would need some slick

 

I really like the look of the FIRST intake system...what would be the best combination with heads and cam to be in the 7s? made a lot of search on the forum and read a TON of page but all the answer i got is not sastifiyng me ...i didnt seem to found clearly what im looking for.

 

L98. Full bolt ons, abit weight reduction, tune and well setup suspension on sticky track in great air will go 8.2-8.3's.

Cam only should break into the 7's with a good intake like stealth ram, first, miniram, etc on stock heads modded for more cam lift, which can be as easy as custom retainer package ground down to avoid valve guide bosses, or even beehive kit.

Heads cam will easily go 7's. mid 7's is around 340-360 whp depending how well car is working and how light.

Smallest aftermarket head i would use is afr 180 or equal. 195's can work great to! Profiler 195's dart 200's brodix 200 etc could work. I like afr as they have abit faster ports and typically make more power out the box although it really depends on the app, but 0-6000 rpm afr works well.

Cheaper way would be oem vortecs and big cam if you can find a set uncracked and good condition.

If afr heads simple small cam in the 218-224 range could get mid higher 7's. 230 deg at .050 is as large as i want to go and get you capable mid lower 7's in a really good car in great air like more sealevel track

 

First , thank you for your answer.
Was planning to go with a FIRST set up, and read a lot of good thing about the afr 195.....for the cam.... thats a daily car and i guess smaller cam would be more easy riding and tuning? ....i have to learn how to tune the prom...would it be hard? Dont want to do bad thing to the block....and i guess ill have to go all forged bottom? ...would the gain would be noticiable to go the 383 route? Thanks again.

 

Something like 268 xfi will drive great and be easy to tune. Maf car will tolerate alot of it, rest is pe enrichment vs rpm. Easy to play with

Tht will get you the power. Rest is traction and stall speed. More the merrier. 3600 be awesome for that and a short runner intake. First maybe 3200-3400 max. Should cut 1.6's and go mid higher 7's in optimal conditions

 

with that stall...would that not be to much for just every day around town? and what about doing a 383 instead? how much ''gain'' would it have againts a 383... Thanks!

 

I dont mind stall. I daily a 3200. My iroc has 4500+ but it acts super tight because its a turbo car.

A good brand converter should act tight when cruising around yet open up nicely at wot. By good brand i mean one thats likely 550+$, not the summit catalog specials. Worth its weight in gold

383 is capable of more power because you can give it more cam and head. If using same intake heads and cam as a 350, you may make same hp or so but will make more torque and entire power band comes down few hundred rpm. A cam heads setup that pulls to 6500 in a 350 may pull 6000-6200 in a 383. So you usually add 5-8 deg to cam for a 383 and 195-200 cc heads really work well