Rice01

I am in the process of building a 383 to replace the L98 in my 88 Iroc-z. it seemed that the block of the L98 was riddled with sensors and I curious as I am starting with a fresh summit stroker clearanced (SUM-150100-30) block, which of these do I have to install on the new engine for the TPI to function properly. I know that I will be needing a tune as well just want to make sure I build it correctly before I get to that point an am missing something.

rusty vango

you will need every last one of them.

Kevin G

Yep, other than emmisions you will need to keep them all to run correctly.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Dude. Good job getting a 1pc rear main seal engine.

Keep your block sensors. The knock and oil pressure stuff are mandatory. Besides, having your car be troubleshootable by original service manual is better than a "WTF did this guy do here?" engine bay.

The only "I'm tired of this stuff" stuff is the AIR stuff on the passenger side and the AIR pump. And removing them makes your car worth less to potential buyers, and gains zero horsepower.

Rice01

awesome thank you.

greenyone

iTrader: (1)

If you plan on keeping the car long term and don't have emissions testing, get rid of the AIR stuff. Not for performance though. It's so much easier to change plugs and access things on the sides of the engine once it's outa there.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

And when you start buying sensors and such, get the good stuff like AC Delco. You'll pay a little more but they'll work.

Greenyone.....did you NOT see what JMD said about the AIR stuff and Pump???? To each his/her own, I guess.
Believe it or not, that junk actually helps the car and is there for a reason. IMO

greenyone

iTrader: (1)

Bob I guess you didn't read what I said. My point was that if he plans on keeping the car (not concerned about re-sale), doesn't require emissions testing in his state and want the ease of servicing the car without the AIR pipes in the way...then by all means remove it. AIR is there for 1 reason. To preheat the old style cat then the valve closes when it's up to temperature. It won't run any differently with it on or off.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

greenyone, I Gothcha. Its early!

greenyone

iTrader: (1)

I inserted my coffee iv drip at 5:30 est.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

Rice01

I appreciate it guys. I had gutted the AIR stuff off the original motor. the ease of access was worth it and I removed the EGR because I wasn't too keen of pumping crap back into my engine. between the AIR stuff and switching to headers plugs are just a pain in the *** now as apposed to impossible before. Luckily the Car is in Northern Nevada which is still the Wild west and immune to the rest of the Unions SMOG malarkey. I'm fine with the car being worthless to buyers since I never intend on selling it. My grandfather ordered it in 87, I rode home from the hospital in it when I was born in 89 and I plan to do the same with my son( unless the cage gets in the way of the back seat)

greenyone

iTrader: (1)

If you really want to keep the crap out of you're intake, look into a catch can for your PVC system. I'm in the process of restoring my G92 car and keeping it mostly stock. I'm going to go the same route with the AIR and EGR but I definitely plan on not having crankcase air/oil being circulated back into my intake also.

Rice01

On the lower passenger side of the block, just in front of the dip stick, there is a temp sensor for the fans if I remember correctly, the part of the wiring harness that plugs into it broke an I am left with just the wire that was inside the plug. is there any way to order the loom side of the plug? the sensor has a bell shape to it's plug. I cant find the pic I took of the wire, I had it rigged in place before pulling the engine and want to do things correctly going back in.
**now im second guessing myself, it's been a few months since I have been around the car... not sure if it is the lower center sensor in that picture or the upper new looking one behind the dipstick, there was a small engine bay fire from plug wires resting on a header that burnt up that sensor and the wire leading to it.**

greenyone

iTrader: (1)

That is your knock sensor. Look on RockAuto.com. I've bought new connectors from them before.

greenyone

iTrader: (1)

Sorry. I think I was looking in the wrong spot. The brass sensor is the fan switch in the upper left on the passenger head. The sensor on the block is the knock sensor. But rockauto.com should have that too. Look in the year/make/model section for your car, then look under "Electrical-Connector". It's probably ACDELCO PT308 if it's the single wire connector.

Rice01

you guys are awesome.

I'm in Michigan for school and the car is back home in Nevada so I am trying to order parts and make decisions based on memory and pics. next time I make it home and make some progress on the new motor I will start a thread for the build.