Hi, I’m new to the forum and new to the TPI system. I’ve tried to do a lot of research and could not get a whole lot of information. I have no idea of what my budget will look like. I could see having around 1500 to spend by spring time without selling my daily car. What I’ve found out is; the stock tpi runners help give it the low end torque and restrict a decent amount of higher end power and higher rpms. So I’d like to start with a new intake that I don’t have to switch to tbi or a carb setup. Eventually I’d like to buy heads but I’ve read the stock ones are fine, until I get more money. Then I’d like to do a tune up, because I can imagine it needs one bad. Does anyone have a good idea on how much I would have to spend to get 300whp? I know it’s not a lot and I’d hope it’s somewhat easily attainable. I’ve also been looking at edelbrock top end kits which I think I may get the most value from. I’d like a more consistent powerband also not just low end torque, though it’s nice. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

Yeah... Probably not getting to 300hp at the wheels with TPI and only $1500, unless you invest in nitrous oxide. You'll spend $1500 just on some garbage intake base/runners/headers, and you won't gain 100hp from those mods. You need those mods to let the engine breathe that will go under that intake. You'll still have to modify the engine. If you modify the engine without modifying the intake, you'll gain more than just the intake alone, but the stock intake will be like a banana in your tail pipe. That's why you don't see a lot of 300hp low budget TPI cars running around the forum.

It's a nearly 30 year old car/40 year old technology, don't waste time and money trying to church it up on a budget. Just drive it the way it is and enjoy it. Put that $1500 in a savings account so when the 700R4 pukes the bed, or the engine develops a knock, you can fix it instead of letting it rot away in the garage or somewhere on the back forty in a shelter belt.

 

Thanks for the reply. Everything you said was very logical. I guess I’ll wait for a bigger budget. Also factored into my budget already is a new 700r4, so I don’t need to worry about getting a new trans. I think I’ll buy a 383 short block online once I get enough money and go from there. Or have my current motor stroked. Then I’ll switch to a carb and not use the TPI system. I don’t think my bottom end can handle any type of forced induction.

 

What kind of fab skills you got? If you shop right and can build ur own stuff, a ebay turbo type build could be done under 2000$ and get that power easily

else save money for more. Heads alone will be 1000$

 

Look for a used Vortech Kit. Bolt on and you should be at 300hp or so. It will continue to support any mods you do after.

 

Do ^^^^this.

Then, save your $$$ until you have enough to either completely rebuild/upgrade your existing engine, replace it with a new crate motor, or do an LS swap. Forget about adding a bunch of bolt-ons to your old engine; such tactics rarely end well.


In this forum, it's Deja-Vu all over again.

 

[QUOTE=Orr89RocZ;6353764]What kind of fab skills you got? If you shop right and can build ur own stuff, a ebay turbo type build could be done under 2000$ and get that power easily

i am willing to do a lot of fabrication and understand it needs a lot for a turbo to work. I know I’d for sure need a new bottom end and some higher comp pistons with a turbo. I’ll definitely look into a turbo. Thanks

 

Thinking either building a bare block and as I get more money continue to build, or buy a crate motor. Looking at a rebuild either way I guess though.

 

No leave it bone stock except maybe refresh the heads with new valvesprings and seals

that be the best way to get there. I was near that power with a stock 305 tpi just 9 psi boost from a rear turbo setup, but you need to fab and tune well

 

im worried my bottom end will not handle the turbo. What turbo did you use?

 

Well if you want to rebuild go new rod and forged piston with abit more ring gap and keep stock crank. That will hold 300-400 whp all day imo. Else go forged crank as well and hold 400-500+ but then the block is an issue. Splayed main caps and its good to 700 i would say comfortably but you aint talking budget no more

you asked budget. Stock motor if good shape will hold 300 whp. Single on3 t70 p trim will do it

 

I’ll look into some turbos like the t70. If I do this I’m going to re use the crank then get high comp pistons and make the ring gap bigger I guess. Trying to find how much fab work I’d have to do.

 

The problem with a turbo build, or anything that involves a lot of "moving pieces" is the nickle and dime nature of the project. If you're starting with nothing, no tools, no skills, etc you're really fighting an uphill battle. Say you decide to do a turbo build. Do you have a welder or someone who can do the job for you? What's that going to cost. Can you tune it when your done? Do you have the equipment and experience to do the tuning yourself or what is it going to cost? Let's say you get it all put together, tuned, everything works great, and you put a rod through the side of the block a week later, where is that going to leave you?

I don't mean to be Debbie Downer over here, but it's a challenge sometimes just keeping a stock thirdgen going. When you start talking about doing a major project, you have to have the funds on hand for regular upkeep and maintenance AND the funds for the project. For some folks on the forum, it's easy to forget how things can add up for someone who doesn't have the same resources or hasn't already invested in the gear to tune, or the time into learning to tune, etc. Every bit of it costs money and can blow the budget out of the water.

 

https://www.cxracing.com/turbo-kit-g...AMARO8292-NOIC

hard pressed to beat this imo but have no experience with it. May wish to upgrade gate and bov, maybe not

 

That turbo looks like a good deal. I’m trying to decide to build a short block to handle that, keep the tpi system and buy that turbo, or keep it NA and buy a top end kit. I have friends who can do most welding for me. I’m trying to decide what will be the most reliable set up, and which will give me the best gain. A top end kit is just as much as that turbo kit.

 

Na will likely be easier to do and maintain. Less heat, less crap to go wrong, easier to tune. But you will need heads cam intake mods to get over 300

either is possible on stock shortblock

 

Turbo is wag nicer, but more to go wrong. Which would YOU do though, considering you turboed your 305, and you have experience? Which can get me the most power, stock bottom end? Thanks

 

Well at my experience level now after doing this for a number of years and tuning these cars i wont ever do another natural aspirated build ever again lol

 

you would be surprised what the stock LB9/L98 will handle if it is not detonating. A lot will depend on how you drive it and how often you are in it WOT.

I am pushing a hot 6PSI into mine with a supercharger and no custom tune. Boost referenced retard on the ignition side and a booster pump and fuel management unit on the fuel side to step up the fuel pressure/volume under boost. This is a "Bolt On" kit from Vortech. No knock, doesn't run lean... all good.

Same could be done with a Turbo.


However, as mentioned, if your engine is not in great health you should start there first. No combination of shiny parts will correct poor running conditions otherwise.

You will be able to make more power per dollar with forced induction. Plus, it will have better street manners.

 

I keep forgetting used older vortec kits come up from time to time for relatively cheap. Not a bad way to go

 

Alright guys, thanks for the help. As of now, I’m looking at boosting my L98. I’ll look more into it. As for me having it at WOT, I’d say I’d have no clue as to how often that would be. I’d like a more aggressive get up and go, but just knowing I have all that power is good enough for me. Definitely won’t be doing much racing or anything like that. Will be many time I hold it wide open though, I mean if I pay that much why wouldn’t I

 

There is a big difference in taking a 20-80mph blast versus launching and running a full 1/4 or 1/8 6 times every weekend. I honestly believe the Vortech kit is the best hp per dollar option. the used kits aren't super expensive and if you can get the complete kit (Ignition boxes, pump, FMU) its set up to be turn key. From there you can do things to further optimize.

The biggest limitations on our motors are the intake manifolds. Great for torque, but don't flow well up top. There are just no cheap options left for correcting that. So, shove the air in.

Also, the exhaust manifolds suck bad so there is power to be found there. Headers range from cheap mild steal up to coated stainless. Priced accordingly.

 

This!

Unless you want to start off buying parts that you can re-use when you replace the motor. Such as headers and intake. Headers and an HSR should at least give you 40-50 more hp than a stock TPI setup and exhaust manifolds. That way when the knock in the block starts you can buy a crate motor and install the headers and intake on it. The headers and intake aren't throw away, they are just performance mods to make marginal improvements until you get a 350-383cid with Heads and Cam to take advantage of the intake and exhaust.

I suggest HSR and Dyno Don's Headers/Y Pipe. Maybe you get 285bhp.

 

There is a Youtube vid of a shop that purchased the Ebay Turbo kit. Suggest the OP watch it.

 

I think this is a good point. I should build a motor while I’m doing things to my stock L98. That way I don’t need to worry about spending a lot of money and have my motor blow up and not be able to drive it. So when it does blow, I’ll have a motor built then o can add a top end and headers and all that to it from my L98.

 

Dont be fooled by the cheap ebay turbo route youre going to spend a bundle making it work then you still ahve a chinese snail on it
Not discouraging just saying do it once do it right
Orr is giving you good info.

 

Yeah by the looks of it, I’ll buy top end parts and headers and all of that and put it on my motor and build a new motor for when my current one goes. Then I’ll look into forced induction and all that.

 

If it's tuned right the bottom end will survive a lot longer than you are giving it credit for.

 

This is getting beyond a 300 whp build lol

 

You're assuming a lot about a used engine. Has OP mentioned how many miles are on the existing engine? Has he mentioned compression test numbers? Has he performed a leakdown test? Cold/hot oil pressures? I'm not going to read every post of the thread, but I did a few quick text searches for keywords, so far all I'm seeing is that OP has a 350.

Pushing any unknown quantity engine is a recipe for disaster. The fanciest budget turbo setup in the world doesn't mean jack shiz when the engine is blown up and the bank account is drained from fabrication.

 

You’re completely right, that’s my worry. So it’s coming down to putting various parts on my current engine while building a new one for when my current engine has some catastrophic failure. It has 106k miles btw. Runs well, for now.

 

If it has good oil pressure it will be fine. A stock motor is best to learn on lol

 

so as of right now it looks like I’ll likely go with a top end kit, headers, and other things to try to get as much power as possible while maintaining my budget. While doing that I’ll buy a block and go from there, as my budget gets bigger. I’ll do a lot of tests on my current engine and determine whether it’d be worth buying a short block because my current engine is toast(if). I think it’s pretty strong though with 106k, and had routine service done.

 

 

My engine as of now is in good health, no issues, yet.

 

You might find the info in the link useful.

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/202...mvsstealthram/

 

Backatcha big guy.

Bolded sentence didn't apply only to OPs posts. It shouldn't surprise you that I don't read 99% of what you post.

 

In my experience, I would recommend first a tune up and then a custom tune. Make sure the stock setup is 100% healthy and running at peak performance. This is cheap and easy to do. You may be amazed at how much better even a healthy engine feels after a custom tune. You aren't going to get airflow above 5,000 RPM with TPI, so if I was gunning for 100HP, spending that fun money on a trick NOS setup would be it. Remote bottle valve, blanket, etc. Flip a switch and use a 150HP shot. I think you can even ad an input and custom NOS map when you get your custom tune but I'm not sure.

On the other hand- and I have no experience in this area, if you can get a centrifugal supercharger and a custom tune for your budget, that would probably be the best. I'm not sure you can get that to fit into the money. But if so, the custom tune is key.

 

No issues doesn't mean good health. I see a lot where people say that things are "fine" or "ok" but they don't know that. What they are actually saying is the car starts and runs.

 

exactly what I’m saying. Yeah it runs well but I don’t know that everything is in perfect order. That’s why I was thinking of doing a rebuild for another 350 in place of my L98 if it decides to have something catastrophic happen. What I think I’ll do is do a complete tune up. Then a top end kit, headers. After that I’ll see where I’m at. I may be fine with my current engine, or I may rebuild one in its place.

 

Yeah just refresh it if you can. Do compression test and check bearings. Its likely it needs a timing set and may have front cam bearing wear. Hard to say. But a basic rebuild new bearings etc shouldnt be too much

 

I will do as many tests as possible before tearing the motor apart, but I’ll keep in mind it’s likely I’ll need a rebuild.

 

Nitrous and TPI can be a handful. The 125hp I tried on my Formula was so violent I couldn't get traction until half way thru second gear. Ended up putting the whole shebang on my 3.1L Firebird, where it made it feel a good bit faster than the stock 350TPI in the Formula. Since I sold the V6, the bottle has been sitting in the corner, and the rest of the parts are set aside with a TPI plate setup, and a MSD RPM activated window switch. Plan if I ever use it again will be to use MSD rpm pills to control when the nitrous kicks in and out, so it's not just blindly activated by a throttle activated microswitch, or by a manual switch. It'd probably still be a bit touchy kicking in anywhere in first.

 

I tried to not mention my age (16)(due to I think you have to be 18 to belong to the forum and I got kicked from a different forum because of my age) but anyway I think I’d get way too out of hand with a nitrous setup. I don’t think my parents would like that anyway. Should’ve mentioned this before I know, sorry. My parents wouldn’t mind as much with a turbo or centrifugal SC. I’m going to look at more superchargers but realistically a top end kit is more in my budget, as of now. I’ve been looking at different engines that are NA that I can replace my L98 with and have enough power for me, as another option.

 

No age requirement that I'm aware of. Refilling the bottle, constantly, gets old really fast. There's a reason my beater/daily driver has a turbocharger.

 

I was curious how often I’d have to refill the nitrous, so since for you it was constantly, I guess I’ll chose something else. I’m saving my money for the next few weeks on a new transmission, trying to buy a newer 4l60 that will hold a bit more power than stock. Then after that I’ll be saving most of my money until the snow melts, and I’ll actually be able to drive this car, not worrying about the salt. I won’t know my actual budget but I figure at least 1500. If it’s anything less than 1000 I’ll decide whether to sell my DD to have a larger budget. At least this thread has given me a lot of options to be able to chose from, and I really appreciate how many people have been giving me good options to go with.

 

I got 4 good passes on a 150 shot spraying for 10 sec. 5th pass it started seeing alot of mph drop off.

10 lb standard bottle . Air is cheaper to find lol turbo for me

 

Damn I did not figure it was that fast to burn through an entire bottle. Knowing me I’d have to try to not use it up in one day

 

A nano kit can help get more out it it. Def need to monitor pressure and use a heater to get there. They say a 10 lb bottle can only deliver 6 lbs of nitrous in conventional ways. Nano kits can extract more it says.

If you are doing 2-4 sec pulls on the street nitrous will last a fair amount of time

 

im not sure what my driving style would be with nitrous. As it sits stock, I liked holding it WOT off a roll at like 10mph. That’s what I like about the centrifugal supercharger, but the cheapest one is like 3500, which could buy a lot of nitrous I guess.