Building horsepower on an 87 5.7L?
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From: Indiana
Car: 1987 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
Engine: 5.7L V8
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: LSD
Building horsepower on an 87 5.7L?
I have a 1987 TA 5.7L, TPI. I was looking at the top end kits for Gen 1 Chevy 350s. Theoretically my block is just a gen 1 SBC 350 right? So I could buy one of these tip end kits and change it all out? I would assume making large amounts of power would require forged internals as well but anyways do yall think I could get a top end kit to work?
Last edited by indianafirebird; Jun 21, 2020 at 08:08 AM. Reason: error
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From: North Jersey
Car: 84 Z28 H.O
Engine: L69 305
Transmission: BW T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Building horsepower on an 87 5.7L?
Yes you have a gen 1 SBC, you can get after market top end kits to work. How much HP are you looking to get?
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Re: Building horsepower on an 87 5.7L?
You could get a top end kit, but it's unlikely the cam included with it would work well with the TPI. Most all (if not all) those kits from the head manufacturers for the Gen 1 SBCs are developed around carburetor induction systems. Plus, from what I can tell most are for the heads up to 1986. Your 87 has a different head bolt pattern and subsequent intake bolt pattern. So, you'll need to drill out your intake to work with the earlier heads (that's what most do).
You would be better off buying the heads and cam separately to make sure the car performs the way you want it to. If you're trying to keep costs relatively low, AFR has a new Enforcer 64cc, angled plug, aluminum head for $953.30 at Summit (AFR-1006). You would have to drill your intake (no big deal) and get a new set of valve covers. The next closest cost effective head that your intake and valve covers will just bolt on are the TFS-30410002 at $1,270. Either would perform about the same but you have more flexibility with the AFR heads regarding camshaft as the springs appear to be a little better for more aggressive cam profiles and higher lift (0.600" vs 0.540"). Cam would depend on your exhaust, gearing, stall speed (stock or not), and what you plan to do with the car.
Just to cover the basics, I'd suggest you do a compression and leak-down test to make sure your short block is in good health before doing a head and cam swap. I don't get all that nervous about stock short blocks (in good shape) for a naturally aspirated engine until it get close to the 500HP mark, or they run over 6000 RPM on a regular basis - which is unlikely for a 350TPI. So you should be good unless you want to boost or spray it.
You would be better off buying the heads and cam separately to make sure the car performs the way you want it to. If you're trying to keep costs relatively low, AFR has a new Enforcer 64cc, angled plug, aluminum head for $953.30 at Summit (AFR-1006). You would have to drill your intake (no big deal) and get a new set of valve covers. The next closest cost effective head that your intake and valve covers will just bolt on are the TFS-30410002 at $1,270. Either would perform about the same but you have more flexibility with the AFR heads regarding camshaft as the springs appear to be a little better for more aggressive cam profiles and higher lift (0.600" vs 0.540"). Cam would depend on your exhaust, gearing, stall speed (stock or not), and what you plan to do with the car.
Just to cover the basics, I'd suggest you do a compression and leak-down test to make sure your short block is in good health before doing a head and cam swap. I don't get all that nervous about stock short blocks (in good shape) for a naturally aspirated engine until it get close to the 500HP mark, or they run over 6000 RPM on a regular basis - which is unlikely for a 350TPI. So you should be good unless you want to boost or spray it.
Last edited by BadSS; Jun 21, 2020 at 10:11 AM.