Is there any modifications, I have to stick a disk rear end,in place of my drum rear end, for my 1982 Z28? Will the main brake line on the frame connect without any problems? I figured I would take the E-brake cable loose right at the adjuster, but not sure about the brake lines? Thank you for any help you can give me!

Bolt it right up. As far as the proportioning valve I've heard some say change it and others say don't need to. I changed mine, but it might be worth driving first and see what happens.

Depends on what axle you get, Hot Wheeler. Your '82 Camaro uses SAE (standard) brake fittings, instead of metric fittings. GM went to metric fittings in '84. So you're going to need to hunt down an 82-83 axle to get the proper fittings. Sucks, eh?

All's not lost, you could make your own brake lines. You can buy pre-flared pieces of pipe. A metric flare tool (ISO bubble flare) is expensive, a double flare tool (SAE/standard) is not. Look for pre-flared brake tubing for "imported" cars (metric) with medium-blue colored fittings. I think the metric spec is 1mmx10mm.. can't remember exactly. Anyway, you'd buy two lenghts of tubing. You'd cut one end off each tube, and use a SAE double flare tool to put a standard flare on each end. Use the metric end for the 84-up calipers, and the SAE end for your brake system.

Do a <a href="https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/search.php?s=">Search</a> on this forum and the Suspension/Chassis/Brakes forum. You should find my old messages; I put a 3.73/posi/disc rear in from an '84 Trans Am, with engine code "G" and a manual trans. 82-88 rear calipers were recalled, the recall kit is only $35. Search the Suspension/Chassis/Brakes forum for "caliper recall" and you should find my messages, along with the many other info by other people- and look for "master cylinder" by Apeiron. You can keep your m/c. The prop valve should be changed, $60 from GM.

The stock GM rear brakes are a nightmare. Don't expect better stopping power, don't expect the pads to be easier to change (Due to the pistons need to be turned into their bores....) and also don't expect the parking brake to work and if it does, it prolly won't for long... and after those lame anti-rattle clips rot off it makes the car sound like junk is going to rattle off the car every pothole you hit. The worst part is I used new calipers, new pads and new rotors and they suck. A big brake conversion on the front with a prop valve would have been a much better investment IMO. It doesn't stop any better either.

I converted both my Fbods to rear discs and now am going back to drums. Can't see the rotors through stock Firebird mags anyway and that is probably the only advantage. Open mags with drums look gay...

I hear ya about the lack luster performance. I had 1 piston that was leaking and bought a Joe Schmo rebuild that did'nt fix anything, so I ended up taking the one side off-WHAT A DIFFERENCE. I did'nt realize I was losing that much pressure. Now it almost stops as good as the drum rear I originally had. When I get my 9" I'm gonna put disc on that just because it is'nt that much more than drum by the time you purchase all new parts. I'm almost ready to scrap the 9" and go with the 8.8 parts are cheaper and more available plus there is'nt enough difference in strength in my application maybe 400 hp to make a big to do.