How to remove the inspection plate on the T-5
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 749
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From: Acworth/Marietta, GA
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: Pro 5.0 shifted T56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73 posi
How to remove the inspection plate on the T-5
How do you pop off that top inspection plate on the T-5? I loosened all the bolts and got it broken free but now its caught up on the shifter shaft and the tranny is locked up solid. Is there some trick im missing? Please tell me I didnt just FUBAR my tranny
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From: Warsaw, Indiana
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 427 LSX
Transmission: Turbo 400
Umm, that trans blows to take apart. IMO, the cover cannot come off without taking the rear of the case off. All you have to do to do that is take a punch and push out the pin that holds the part by the shifter on to the shifter linkage shaft, and of course the bolts for the rear of the case. I believe that tremecs website has the assembly manual. But, be careful, b/c that linkage is a bitch to get back in the proper place if you rotate it too much. Basically, if i were you I'd get my hands on the manual and learn how to do it. Lemme know if i can help or even if I did.
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 2
From: Monticello, IN USA
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5 (gonna buy the farm)
The manual I have says to push the roll pin out of the shifter socket. Take the tailhousing off. Take the top plate slide about 1" toward the drain plug side, then lift off. The 5th gear/reverse lever catches on the top plate, so it has to move over. In order to move it over, the internal rail has to come out of the tailshaft.
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 406
Likes: 1
From: under the hood
Car: 92 Z28 heritage
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: T-5
Yeah, that doesn't just unblot and come off, the shifter interlock has to be disassembled, The shift forks hang down from that cover, and the shift rod travels through the tailhousing. The tailhousing HAS TO come off to remove the cover.
Sorry.
Sorry.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 749
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From: Acworth/Marietta, GA
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: Pro 5.0 shifted T56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73 posi
Yeah i figured it out. Thanks
My synchros and gears look absolutly brand new, but there is an awful lot of play in my bearings on the mainshaft. I mean, i can take the input shaft in my hand and feel it just loosely wobbling up and down. Is this normal?
My synchros and gears look absolutly brand new, but there is an awful lot of play in my bearings on the mainshaft. I mean, i can take the input shaft in my hand and feel it just loosely wobbling up and down. Is this normal?
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: out of my mind; be back in 5 minutes....
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: Internal Combustion
Transmission: Completed
Axle/Gears: ones that turn.
To some degree, it's normal. The pilot bushing/bearing will support the other end when installed.
And there's gonna be a lot more play if the tailshaft is off the main case.
Good luck putting it back together - it's a bit<x>ch of a job.
Pete
And there's gonna be a lot more play if the tailshaft is off the main case.
Good luck putting it back together - it's a bit<x>ch of a job.
Pete
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 2
From: Monticello, IN USA
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5 (gonna buy the farm)
The only problem I had was getting the 5th driven gear off the main shaft. (the little one). That was a bitch. There are shims between the imput shaft retainer plate, and the bearing race. The for/aft movement of the input shaft is the main thing to watch for. Like Pete said, the wobble will be supported by the pilot bushing. E-mail me if you need help.
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