What kind of shift kit should I get for my Th400? Also, what's a good quality stall converter for it. Im looking for a 3000-3200 stall and not pay much over $300 if I don't have to. I got a muncie four speed in it now, but its pretty much shot and a piece of crap, so I got this TH400 laying around. I guess I'm going to have to get the drive shaft shortened?

 

You get what you pay for with converters. Inexpensive converters usually also means cheaply built unless it's a stock replacement. My 8" race converter is worth over $1000. A 3800 stall 10" I used to have was worth about $400.

Driveshaft length
TH400 slip yoke
Transmission crossmember
Flexplate
Pedel assembly to change from manual to automatic transmission
Neutral start switch
Swap kit to install electric kickdown and torque arm mount.
Shift kit is up to you. TCI is good.
Converter stall depends on many factors. Depends where your engine makes it's power, weight of the vehicle, gearing etc.

 

so I need a different crossmember? Can I rob one off of another auto third gen, or is there more to it? Does the new crossmember have to be from a TH400 car? I have the nuetral switch rigged up so I already have to push the button instead of push the clutch down, is that what you meant? Cant I just leave my clutch pedal in there, and take out all of the z rod assembly from the car?

 

Only a third gen crossmember will fit into a third gen and no third gens ever came with a TH400. I "think" the swap kit allows you to relocate the crossmember and uses another bracket to reach the tranny mount. Another option is to just buy a Spohn torque arm with crossmember designed for the TH400.

The neutral switch needs to be wired up through the auto shifter (something else you'll need) so that the engine won't start unless it's in park or neutral.

There's a Z rod? I thought all third gens were hydraulic clutch. I didn't think there was enough room between the bellhousing and the floor for a Z rod

 

Ive seen 3rd gens with hydrolic,cable,and zrod setups,for clutch operation(stock)

 

do you know where I could find a swap kit? Would you know about how much it would cost? Thanks

 

yeah I'm pretty sure manuals before 84 had the z rod setup/clutch rod setup, at least I know my 83 does

 

I used the hurst th-400 swap kit. Got it from summit for $125 when I did mine. It comes with a new round crossmember, a torque arm mout bracket that bolts to your th-400 tailshaft housing, shift cable bracket, another bracket, some rubber vac line, etc

Your driveshaft may work. I used a shaft from a 82 camaro 4 speed on my swap. You will need a th-400 yoke, and maybe a conversion U joint to put the bigger yoke on the smaller driveshaft. I got my conversion brute force solid forged body U joint at auto zone for around $20

You'll need a good trans cooler. The higher the stall converter, the better cooler you'll need. I don't use an "auto rad.", but I have a B&M super cooler (next to biggest one) on the grill side of my rad, along with another big tube/fin type trans cooler

Th-400 has an elec kickdown (passing gear). At 1st I ran mine on a consol mounted toggel switch. Then I re caled the gov. with a B&M gov. kit, and on a th-400 the gov kit lets you change weights and springs to set your WOT up shift points, but it will also controll WOT 3-2 downshift. I have my 2-3 set for 5400 rpm, and if i'm tooling around in drive under 5400 rpm, and floor it, it will downshift to 2 and hold it till 5400 rpm, then upshift back to 3

As far as a shift kit. I would NEVER use anything but a Transgo reprogramming it. Check www.bulkpart.com they have the best prices. The kit number is 400-1&2. It has alot of diff settings you can pick and do. So you can set the shifts from caddy smooth, to knock your brains out hard

BTW. early third gens came with dry clutch 4 speeds with the Z bar setup. I know 82 did and I think 83 did as well. Then they changed to the hyd. clutch t-5.

You can leave your pedels as is if you want too. My car came stock as a 2.8 L, 5 speed. Now a 350/th-400 car. I swapped pedels out to auto ones, but my dad's 82 firbird came out as a 2.8 L, 5 speed. Now his is a 327/th-350 car, and he's still got the small brake pedel and clutch pedel in his

Converters is a touchy thing. You really get what you pay for. But now if yours aint a full race, trying to get every single .10 sec out of it, then you don't have to be as picky with the converters.

I run a G.E.R 11" 2800 stall. GER is not a known for good stuff company. Alot of folks talks bad about them, but all I can say is what I know.. I got this one almost 5 years ago. Ran it in a 73 chevy truck for about 8K miles. then in my 88 camaro, so far 5K miles. In my camaro I made well over 100 high 12 sec/low 13 sec runs with no traction. Trap speed in the 116-118 mph range. I aint had no probs with the converter. I know i would gain a good bit with a better, higher dollar converter, but this is just my daily driver, and i aint trying to get every last bit out of it.

I got a few buddies that bought "boss hog" converters from pep boys and runs them on mid 12 sec street cars w/o any probs.

A great converter will always be best, but sometimes a $600-1200 converter just aint in the budget and a $200-300 converter will do

 

thanks for all the valueable info. I could only find a swap kit from Jegs. I dont think I see a new crossmember in the picture, do you think it comes with one, or are those just relocating mounts I see.

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...60&prmenbr=361

 

nevermind my last question, found it on summit with the x-member

 

When I get a shifter, how would did you attatch it to your manual's console?

 

I pop rivited a pc. of thick sheet metal over the hole in the floor (you can use sheet metal screws, bolts and taps, ot weld)

Then mounted my Pro stick shifter down to the floor (on that thick sheet metal) I had to put a .75" spacer under the shifter to get it to the right highet. To bolt down the shifter, I used bolts and taps. Long bolts, stuck from the bottom up through floor, spacer, shifter, then put thr tap on it

Then I got an auto trans shift plate/top of consol. I had to enlarge the shifter slot in the shift plate some for my pro stick though, then just put the top of the consol on in place of the man. trans top consol

 

So what youre trying to say was that it was a pain in the ***? Was it too much work? Did you have to replace the consol with an auto, or did it just look better? Cuz I can deal with the looks for now, I just want to get it ready to get on the track.

Its awesome when you find someone who has tackled the same thing your about to do. I looked at the pics of your 88. Were you done with the ****fter when it was sitting so low? Or was that before the metal plate and spacer. Do you have any pics of when you were doing that? Thanks alot.

 

It's really wasnt too big of a pain to do.. It took me maybe 4-6 hours from start to finish.. Thats changing consols, putting shifter in, etc.

When I bought the car, it already had a v-8/auto trans, and the pro stick, but it was installed half assed. So I took it all out and made it right.

The 1st album pics is when I bought the car. The stick was way too low. Thats why I added the spacer under the shifter.

From the pics you seen, you saw no shift plate/consol top on the consol, cause they put the shifter in w/o a spacer and it was so low you couldnt reach the triggr, and lockout with the plate on

The shifter was one of the 1st things I fixed. I don't have alot of before and during pics cause at that time I hadnt bought my digital cam. yet, then, I bought a cheap $20 one and pics was bad, then about mid way through the whole project is when I bought one. I do have some pics of "after" on the shifter.

Oh btw.. The auto consol was just for looks really. You could still put the auto shifter in the man. consol, after you cover up the big hole in the floor. It just wont look as clean, and you'll see the working parts of the shifter.

Give me your E-Mail address and I'll send you what pics I have of the shifter. The mods here said 3 pics max per post, and I think I got about 6 or 7

Here's one pic of the shifter while I was fixing up the interior. You'll notice the shifter is up higher, and it has a shift plate on the consol.

 

ohok, thanks alot for the help. Here's my email.

swr5004@psu.edu

I can see in the pic how the plate and spacer worked now.

 

hey what about this shifter from B&M through summit.com

BMM-80692

Supposed to fit and 82-92 Camaro w/TH400. Comes with a console mount and everything! Do you think I could just slap that in along with the console from an auto? Looks like it should work great.

Check it out http://static.summitracing.com/globa.../bmm-80692.pdf

 

well here's the deal with the consol fit bolt ins... The auto cars has two bracket things sticking up about a half inch or so off the floor under the shifter.

The B&M consol shifters, uses those stock shifter mounting points. It can be fabbed up to work in a manaul trans floor, but you'll still need to make your own spacers and bolt holes. My self I think it would be just as easy to put a universal shifter in. The only diff would be the shift plate ontop.

With the consol fit B&M mega shifter, they give you a shift plate, but you still have to use a stock auto consol shift plate under it, and cut the stock one so there's a big opening. They give you a template to put on your stock plate, mark and cut to the right size, then put the B&M plate over that

 

so does this sound about right? do u think im missing anything?


TH400 swap kit 129.88 at summit
converter 200-300
Flexplate 79.99 at summit
B&M shift kit 29.99 at summit
U-Joint 20.00? Pep Boys
B&M Shifter 159.99 at summit


I also need a yoke, but I think I know where to get one.

Anywhere from $620-$720

 

DO NOT USE A B&M SHIFT KIT!!!!!

It's just wasted money, time, and a hurt transmission in the long run..

The B&M kit just makes the shifts alittle harder, but does it in a bad way that will speed up the wear on the bands and clutchs.

If you don't use a Transgo or TCI kit on a th-400, then just leave it stock.

On a th-350 use only a transgo kit, on a th-400 the transgo and TCI kits will both work well, how ever I like the trango kits better.

Check www.bulkpart.com You want the transgo repromgramming kit 400-1&2 for a th-400.

The transgo kit gets you faster shifts, better shift timing, harder shifts, alot more ways of setting it up, and your trans will live longer with it.


To know for sure on the converter, I would need more of your cars specs, like cam size, engine size, rear gear ratio, weight, but most street driven cars don't need or want more than a 2800 stall 11" converter..

You can get a boss hog "Night Stalker 2" 2200-2800 at pep boys for $192

Or if you really need a higher stall. ...

Boss hog "Street Bandit 1" 2800-3200 stall for $258 at pep boys

With any higher stall converter, be sure to add a very good transmission cooler.. Heat is the #1 killer of auto transmissions, and the higher stall will slip more and make more heat. Something like the B&M super cooler for about $50 at summit will work good with the cooler in the ato rad., but if you don't have an auto rad, you may need another cooler as well.

I Don't run the stock rad. cooler, so I have 2 add ones. One stacked plate type (B&M super cooler) and one tube/fin type. The tube/fin was the next to biggest size advance auto sells and was like $35

So add $50-85 for good cooler(s)

The flexplate.. You don't really have to have a $80. SFI cert flexplate unless your racing and run the times that call for one.

A good parts store $25 one will work just as good in 95% of the cases

The rest looks good

 

I'm running the Boss Hog 2800-3200 in the TH400 behind the 396 in the '57. I picked it up at the Super Chevy show in Aug '03, for $220, have abused it almost weekly during the summer (and some in the fall - as in Nov '04 ) ever since. It stalls at 3500 for me, I haven't had a lick of trouble with it (yet). This is a ~3900 lb race weight, ~400 gross flywheel HP (less at altitude) combo.

I have the TCI shift kit in the tranny. It was absolutely harsh with the TCI Saturday Night Special, which stalled at 2200, that was in before the BH went in, and AMSOIL Super Shift ATF (no friction modifiers). With the higher stall, it is just instantenous, not harsh. I've been running the shift kit since '99, the tranny had to be rebuilt in 2000 because the factory set-up (at least in the '66 TH400) engaged the direct clutch while the 2nd gear band was still engaged for a "smoother" shift - it also ate the friction discs. The shift kit eliminates that 2nd gear release delay. If you run normal Dexron III ATF, it won't be as harsh as mine was.

Get Ron Sessions TH400 book. Lots of good info in there.

FWIW, I ran a B&M shift kit in a TH350 that was in the '57 b/4 the 396/TH400 with no problems. Couldn't say about a TH400 B&M kit.

 

Ohok, I wasn't sure about what kinda flexplate I would need and that helps out alot. That will save me some precoius money too. For some reason I forgot to type up the trans cooler, but I didn't know what to get so that helps out alot. Thanks for the info about the transgo kit and the warning about the shift kit.

I guess that converter is pretty damn good.

I just rebuilt the engine last year. I had it bored out, 87 355ci. 4 bolt main out of a chevy pickup, 11:1 pistons, crane cam 510 lift, 1.5 roller rockers, 750 dp Holley, with flowtech headers(i know they are crappy, I have later found out), I just recently put in a set of Richmond 4.10's out back in the 10 bolt, the car probably weights right around stock, only difference I guess was I tore out AC and got a glass cowl hood.

I was thinking a 3200 stall would do good, I've heard they usually hold under what they say they do, but in five7kid's case I guess I'm proved wrong, so maybe 3000?

Another question. What does the Transgo Kit entail. How much stuff do I have to deal with that? I'm not a trans guy, would I have trouble? How long did it take to put in yours?

 

Converters are really hard to rate. Thats why off the shelf units has a between XXXX rppm and XXXX rpm

The more torque you put into it, the higher it will stall, the less torque the less it will stall.

The heavier your car is the higher it will stall, the lighter, the less it will stall

Like same car, and other stuff, one engine makes 375 ft lbs, and other 425 ft lbs.. The one making 425 ft lbs will stall the converter more


or if 2 cars has the same set up... One weighs 3300 lbs and other weighs 3700 lbs.. The 3700 lbs car will stall higher

The duration of the cam is one of the biggest things you need to look at when picking a converter stall.. I have a 272/284* cam and it works great with my 2800 stall. For a daily driver and that cam, I could go alittle lower on the stall, but I had this one laying around so I used it.

The Transgo kit will take about 1-2 hours to do with trans out. With trans in car it will take maybe double that time.

It's not too hard to put in, not really harder than any of the other kits, just alot better. It's made so you have more say in what you want the trans to do.

With the B&M kit.. You drill a hole to the size they say, with the drill bit they give you, put a new plate and gaskets in, leave out a check ball

With the trans go you have 2 things to drill, and a range you can drill them too. Not just a set spec.

The for the 1-2 shift, you have diff springs. Like 5 diff set ups, you can pick from, depending on how hard you want the 1-2 shift.

You also have the larger boost valve spring. I dont put that in on street/strip rides. Thats more for race only

It's a much better kit. I'm no trans man, thats for sure, and it wasnt too bad to install. The kit I got, was the shop type kit and didnt come with the vid. but it had a paper with it. Like 4 pages, and it walks you through the whole install, step by step

 

hey back again with another question.

What tranny was in the automatic early berlinetta's? Would the crossmember work on my 83 Z28 with the TH400?

I took the radiator out of a Firebird with an auto. I was first going to rob the trans cooler out of it for mine. I noticed the trans cooler lines just went to the radiator. So for the sake of saving money is switched cooling sytems. I have everything hooked up except the lines (tranny is not in yet). Everything fits up perfect. The coolest thing is that the Firebird had an electric fan. So I took off my manual, and wired up the electric one and added it to the radiator. Hopefully I saved a few horses on that. My question is, will this setup offer sufficent cooling of my trans? It worked on the Firebird, afterall.

 

The stock auto used in the 82 and 83 F bodys was the TH-200C

It have the same sizes as the TH-350. Trans face to mount, overall lenght, etc

The 82-83 crossmember will not work on a TH-400.

The mount is back alot more on a TH-400

trans face to mount on a th-350 is 20-3/8"
TH-400 is 26-3/4"

In other words the th-400 mount is 6-3/8" rearward of a th-350 (or 200C) mount.

As far as the auto rad.. Your fine with the stock bird auto rad and cooling lines. That will cool a th-400 with stock torque converter just fine.

Now if you add a higher stall converter you will need an extra cooler. A good add one cooler. The higher the stall speed the more slip it has. The more slip, the more heat it makes, and heat kills auto trans.

By replacing the mech. fan with an elec. fan you should pick up a few HP. I knocked around .10 off my ET in the 1/4 mile by going to an elec fan.

Be sure to get 4 short bolts and bolt the water pump pulley up tight to the pump. Most of the times if not all the times the bolts that holds the fan on also holes the pulley on.

 

Is there anyway possible I can drill or mount the crossmember further back? I dont wanna spend the money for the TH400 kit with crossmember. I'm gonna be short on cash until I get out of college for the summer and start work again. I wanted to get the swap done on the weekends when I come home before summer, so I could have it ready.

 

It would be nice if we could move the crossmember back, it just don't work like that on these cars.

In the older days, with the older cars, most of the frames came drilled with 2 sets of crossmember holes, 1 for th-350 and 1 for th-400, you could move the crossmember back to the back set of holes.

No such holes in third gens.

In some of the olders cars they didnt drill the extra holes, so we would just bolt the crossmember to the trans, jack trans up, marm the frame for where to drill, drill and be done

No such luck with these

Even later second gens, they used a crossmember that had the trans mount "tab" sticking off it. You could cut the tab off, flip it around and weld it to the back side of crossmember

Cant do that with these cars. The crossmember is pretty straifght, with hole in center for mount

And cant move crossmember back cause they aint no more sub frame behine the stock crossmember bolt holes.

If you got some thick steel, cutting tools and a welder, then I guess you could fab up something, but...

You still will have the torque arm mount to worry about.

It's money and I know moneys tight, but unless your a very good fabber or steel worker, I think you should just pony up the $125 for the crossmember, torque arm mount, lines, brackets, etc and be done with it.

If you was putting a th-350 in, then you could make your own mounts and stuff. I done that before, but the th-400 is soo much bigger, and mount is so far back, its hard to do it yourself

 

ok, thanks for the valued info. Saved me some real time on that one. One thing about the torque arm tho, is that when i took out the four speed, bellhousing, etc. last weekend on break, i found that i bent the torque arm. I have pulled that arm out of the threads before on the trans, but this was new! I have the Lakewood Traction Action bars on it, and they pretty much took up the place of that arm anyways, so I went ahead and took off the arm. I'm thinking once bent, its prolly lost its rigidity.

 

The lakewood action bars don't replace the torque arm. There's a very few suspensions that does. You will still need the torque arm with those bars. They are just lower controll arms and brackets made together

I hope they have made em' better!! I know quite a few people that had them break into at the mount. Do a search on here and I bet you'll find more than 1 person that's had them things break on em'

 

How high do you think I could get a B/M Torque Master 2400 to stall? It's possible to get more than 2400 right? The pep boys around me doesnt carry torque converters like you mentioned. So right now I'm stuck with the choice of 3000 stall or 2400. I was thinking 3000 is a little high, but I didnt want to go as low as 2400. Do you think its possible it would stall higher tho?

 

To tell you the truth. I have never been a fan of B&M converters. They always seem to have more % slip up top, never stall where they should, and don't really last that long behind some real power

Go back to pep boys... Don't listen to the snot nose zit faced kid at the parts desk. You'll need somebody that knows what a paper catalog is lol.

If you get somebody that knows what they are doing, they can look up the boss hog converters and order you any of them you want. They don't stock them, but they can order it and have it the next day for you to pick up.

You may even beable to order it online and have it sent to your local pep boys, or to your house.

Check out pep boys web site and look up...

Boss Hog Torque Converter
P/N 47011 "Night Stalker 1" 1600-2200 stall $114.56
P/N 47012 "Night Stalker 2" 2200-2800 stall $192.12

My pick would be the Night stalker 2. You should get about a 2600 stall speed out of that one easy.

If you want a lower stall, check out summit's house brands. I'm pretty sure they are made by TCI
SUM-G2700 1500-1900 stall $87.95
SUM-G2702 1800-2200 stall $104.95

 

I'm having absolutely no luck with pep boys. I surely want the boss hog but cant find anything out on their crappy excuse for a website. The problem is, I'm not at home so I cant go to the local pep boys and talk to someone like you said. I called a few stores but all of them said they dont have them. I guess maybe I can ask if they can order them like you said. I want the Night Stalker 2 like you described.

I found the makers of the Boss Hog line called ACC performance. I guess I can try to see if I can just order from there.

 

I found it on thier web site for you......

I'm not sure if it will work or not. If it don't go to www.pepboys.com. Let page load up, go down and look to the right. A girl standing next to a yellow car... Click replacment parts.. Then when that next page comes up. Look to the left. There's a little search box. Type in the P/N your looking for ( 47012 ), then click go. It will take you right too it.

You can buy online...
"Orders shipping within 1-3 days, Est. delivery 2-10 days. Free UPS ground shipping.

Then they have a whole list for updated shiiping like $37 for overnight shipping, $29 for fed ex 2 day shipping, etc etc

http://www.7453217467431.com/main/ne...ffiliate=39901

 

Thanks so much for the help on that. That's awesome, I'm ordering it tonite, hopefully it will be there when I get home for easter, along with the other stuff from summit.

Only thing though; isnt the part #47012 you brought up for the TH350? I found the #46012 for the TH400, is that the one you meant? Thanks for taking the time to find that stuff, it really helped out alot.

 

Your welcome man, glad I can help you out...

Hmmm, they do list a diff one for the th-350 and 400. Thats strange! The 350 and 400 uses the same converter. I had stock 350 converters on 400's, had my 2800 stall on both a 350 and a 400.

I would say both would work, don't know why they have 2 diff listings.

 

Just ordered all my parts last night. Looking forward to going home and getting her done.

 

Can I use rubber tranny cooling lines? If yes, what size and how do I hook them up to the radiator? Use the old metal nuts and an inch of the metal line sticking out, then slip the hose over the metal line?

 

Man, I wouldn't run the full lenght with just rubber. There's alot of pressure coming through those lines, lines pass by some high heat points (headers/exhaust), etc

If I don't have the right metal lines, I will cut the 4 ends off that screws into the trans and rad. Get me some steel hard line from the parts store, and run the hard line, and use a short 2" pc. of rubber and 2 gear clamps on each connection point... where you join new metal line to the end with threaded tube nut.

Then, for like an add on cooler, i'll run all rubber for that, because it's short and in a place that cant get damaged as easy.

Any rubber you put on it, has to be transmission cooler line, fuel line will not work. Carb fuel system only has 8 psi or so on it, EFI only has 30-60 psi, trans has around 150 psi or so.

OH yeah.. I think the rubber cooler line I got with my coolers was 11/32" ID

 

Alright, I'm glad I checked. How should I bend the hard line? Heat it up and just bend it? I find it hard to believe I can do it without crimping the line.

 

I wouldnt heat it, to bend it. It aint that stiff. On small curves, I just use my hands to bend metal lines, on tight bends, I use a tubing bender. I got it from summit for $10. You slip the metal line in, and pull the 2 handles together and more you pull the more it bends the line.

If I remember right, I bent my trans lines by hand. Just needs a few small bends, the way I ran mine.

Now on my fuel system, I had to use the tubing bender

 

I think we are close to the same page as to what we are wanting to do with our cars. I was wanting to know what set up exactly you chose on the springs, and what size you drilled to.

 

All of that f***ing talk about me putting in that TH400 and now I'm backing out. My dad has a TH350 in our old 78 Nova. In the name of horsepower he decided to donate it my cause. I still plan on using all of the parts I ordered. Im pretty sure all of the parts are interchangable right? Do you think that crossmember off the Berlinatta will work then for the TH3350?

 

So that early automatic Berlinetta crossmember should work with the TH350 then?

 

You may want to measure the lenght of the 2 crossmembers. I'm pretty sure 82 and 83 are the same, then changed in 84.

My dad's 82 firebird has a wider trans tunnel, and the crossmember from an 84 was too short to fit across the suf frame at the mounting points. If you have an 82-83 car, then the 82-83 crossmember will fit, but not the 84 and up.

The 82 and 83 200C 3 speed auto has the same mount as a th-350, so a th-350 will bolt right up to the crossmember

You will need to do something about a torque arm mount though

and for later info... If you still want to know what all I done to my th-400 here goes.

out of the trans go 400 1&2 kit

installed stronger direct clutch return springs (trans has to be apart to do this though, but since mine was getting rebuilt it was the right time)

installed the stronger 2nd clutch/pressure plate snap ring (trans has to be apart for this too)

1-2 accumulator system... red spring out board. This did'nt give me quite the 1-2 shift I wanted. The tires wouldnt break free on shift cause of my higher stall converter. A change to orange inboard, red outboard hit alot harder, and was better for me

separator plate... drilled A hole to .130" B hole .170" dont drill C hole

I didnt installed the orange boost valve spring

installed the 5 new check ***** where they said too

I didnt want the back to low at any speed feature so I didnt install the new 1-2 valve and cup plug

Installed modulator with out any spring behind it

 

ok, thanks alot. Hopefully that crossmember will work. Would the torque arm mount I bought for the Th400 swap kit work on the Th350 or are they different? If they are, I'm hoping I can send that stuff back and get some of my money back. I think maybe my driveshaft will work now without cutting it down?

 

No the th-400 swap crossmember, and torque arm mount will not work on a th-350

driveshaft Just depends on what it was for and what your putting in.

My driveshaft I used for my th-400 short tail shaft swap came from a 82-83 F body

My dad's useing a stock 700r4 driveshaft with his long tail shaft th-350

Here's some of the over all lenghts of transmissions

Th-350 short shaft.....27-5/8"
th-350 long shaft......30-5/8"
th-400 short shaft.....28-1/4"
th-400 long shaft.....34"
700r4......30-3/4"
700r4 corvette......30"
th-200....27-5/8"

So if you got a shaft from a 82-83 F body w/ 200 auto, then the same shaft will work on th-350 short shaft, and th-400 short shaft

 

I like the transgo 400-3 reprogramming kit. It's full manual but you can change it back to automatic in about 15-20 minutes and retain the firm shifts.

 

Yeah, I found that the crossmember thats on my car will work for the TH350. So thats a plus. I sent the swap kit back. I guess I'm going to have to fab up something for a torque arm mount. I think my driveshaft is the right length also.

 

Any ideas on how to mount my torque arm to the Th350?