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Rear gear install

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Old May 4, 2005 | 02:07 PM
  #1  
88Camaro350's Avatar
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From: B'ville, WV
Car: 2002 Formula Firebird
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Rear gear install

I just purchased a use posi unit and gears from someone on another forum. Obviously I am on a budget since I did this.

I have been reading up on it alittle and I think I can manage a rear-end gear/posi install. A friend of mine is a machinist and literally has thousands of dollars worth of dial indicators and micrometers. I have a ft. lbs torque wrench and access to a press.

With this in mind do you think I have everything I need? From what I have read I think that is about all I need.

If you can point me to a good source for this info I would be greatly appreciative.
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Old May 4, 2005 | 03:40 PM
  #2  
ede's Avatar
ede
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try looking at a few of the post on this page and if that doesn't answer your questions try searching
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Old May 4, 2005 | 03:49 PM
  #3  
88Camaro350's Avatar
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From: B'ville, WV
Car: 2002 Formula Firebird
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I searched rear gear install and got tons of posts. Most of them weren't how to's or anything. I looked through about 15 and gave up.

I will try again and see what I can find.
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Old May 4, 2005 | 08:29 PM
  #4  
88 350 tpi formula's Avatar
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Car: 89 FORMULA 350, 91 Z28 Convertible
Engine: ls1, LB9
Transmission: t56, Auto
Axle/Gears: S60/ 3.73
you know the #1 best tool to have is the inch lb torque wrench! just the regular old school one that is just a needle off the handle which stayes strait when the bar is bent.



it seems to me that the few people who do setup backlash and pinion depth (alot do not! they just swap the parts and go. those are the ones who can't figure out why the broke the pinion teeth off or have early failure with stock eng.) do ok but, what kills all that work is when they over tighten the pinion nut. do that and you just flushed all your work down the toilet
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Old May 5, 2005 | 06:23 AM
  #5  
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Originally posted by 88 350 tpi formula
you know the #1 best tool to have is the inch lb torque wrench! just the regular old school one that is just a needle off the handle which stayes strait when the bar is bent.



it seems to me that the few people who do setup backlash and pinion depth (alot do not! they just swap the parts and go. those are the ones who can't figure out why the broke the pinion teeth off or have early failure with stock eng.) do ok but, what kills all that work is when they over tighten the pinion nut. do that and you just flushed all your work down the toilet
I agree.

Make sure you have access to a beam-type in-lbs torque wrench that reads on a lower scale (under 50 or 70 or something). Preferably one that reads in 1 in-lb increments- if it's in 5 in-lbs increments, forget it.

Read a factory service manual, that'll explain everything and give you all the correct specs except for one- that pinion nut. They say to torque it until you get proper pinion preload, but don't give a minumum spec to start off from. Go easy on it and keep rechecking the preload.

Good luck.

Scott
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