WC T5 vs Non WC T5
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From: Pelham, NH
Car: 91 B4C, 17 C7 GS, 16 Denali DMax
Engine: LS3, LS3, LML
Axle/Gears: 3.23, 3.42, 3.23
WC T5 vs Non WC T5
I am contemplating a T5 conversion on my IROC before the new motor goes in.
There is a guy local to me that will sell the complete conversion but the tranny is not a WC T5 for $500.
What are the major differences between the WC and non WC? The motor is a slightly modified 350TPI. Probably running around 300hp.
There is a guy local to me that will sell the complete conversion but the tranny is not a WC T5 for $500.
What are the major differences between the WC and non WC? The motor is a slightly modified 350TPI. Probably running around 300hp.
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 818
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From: Hudson, FL USA
Car: 1988 Camaro(92 Z28 clone)
Engine: Forged 383, AFR 195 419/430@wheels
Transmission: Monster 700R4 Yank 3600 stall
Axle/Gears: 9in Detroit locker-3.90's,35 spline
As far as I know the only differences are in the bearings and gear sets. I'm pretty sure that the WC uses Timkin bearings, and the gears are cut different to handle more power. If I'm not mistaken, the WC has a torque input capacity of 330 FT. LBS.
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Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: 87 Iroc Z
Engine: 383ci.
Transmission: WC-T5
All correct.
Couple questions to ask yourself:
Have you driven a stick?
Can you drive it conservatively?
Can you refrain from powershifting?
If you answer no to any of the questions, then the swap is not a good idea. The price is good though.
I was told clutch dumping and powershifting kill the T5's.
Change the fluid every season, and drive it conservatively, meaning, you don't have to baby it, but just respect it. You can put the pedal to the floor all you want, but make sure the gear is fully engaged befor doing so, and make clean shifts, and it will be fine.
Couple questions to ask yourself:
Have you driven a stick?
Can you drive it conservatively?
Can you refrain from powershifting?
If you answer no to any of the questions, then the swap is not a good idea. The price is good though.
I was told clutch dumping and powershifting kill the T5's.
Change the fluid every season, and drive it conservatively, meaning, you don't have to baby it, but just respect it. You can put the pedal to the floor all you want, but make sure the gear is fully engaged befor doing so, and make clean shifts, and it will be fine.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 608
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From: Pelham, NH
Car: 91 B4C, 17 C7 GS, 16 Denali DMax
Engine: LS3, LS3, LML
Axle/Gears: 3.23, 3.42, 3.23
That is pretty much what I was under the impression of. It seems that I am better off holding out for a T-56 conversion.
Thanks for your help!
Thanks for your help!
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From: w. boylston mass
Car: 91 formula
Engine: 305
Transmission: t5
Originally posted by Cruz'N Bruz'R
I was told clutch dumping and powershifting kill the T5's.
I was told clutch dumping and powershifting kill the T5's.
if you got no traction, aka dumping clutch and the tires spin then there is no stress on the transmissions i did the swap over the winter and i pound on my car and its still going strong




