Will the TV cable work better if your linkage is set up so that there are only 4-5 clicks pulled out on the TV cable adjuster at WOT vs. 10 clicks?

 

As long as there aren't any extra "clicks" past WOT, it makes no difference.

 

Set the TV cable to have "no" movement to a 1/16" clearance at WOT. If it shifts too late at part throttle, you can add another 1/16", but no more than an 1/8" total clearance. You want "max" TV at WOT, to have maximum line pressure and a better chance at a long transmission life.

 

What about the actual travel of the cable?

I'm asking because - my problem is I'm slipping at shifts, the 2-3 shift is most noticable, but if your foot is in it (half-throttle), you can tell at all shifts. I did a swap for a carbed 350, disabled ECM, and added the TC lockup switch. But it all shifted fine before the swap, and now it slips at shifts. It must be the TV cable in some manner making it slip. My geometry with the cable seems to be good, and I got a nice stiff bracket for the cables that doesn't twist with WOT.

The actual travel distance of the cable is the only thing I can come with that might be different, since the cable connects to a different linkage now. It seems that the cable is being pulled plenty tight at WOT, and the adjuster sets at about half (6-8 clicks), but maybe it's the distance the cable travels at a given throttle position that's the important part. I don't know. I'll measure cable travel distance on my 1990 TBI and compare to the travel on the carbed 1992.

Any ideas/suggestions appreciated.