Crush sleeve eliminator
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Utica NY
Car: 88 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:42 open diff
Crush sleeve eliminator
Anyone ever use a crush sleeve eliminator kit from raetech. I lost the instructions that indicates the proper installation. As far as I can remember I think you're supposed to measure your old crush sleeve and match it with solid spacer and the provided shims. Then you're supposed to torque the pinion nut to 140 ft/lbs after the initial preload is obtained. I would appreciate some help from someone who has used this kit!!!
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Re: Crush sleeve eliminator
Easiest way I know of, is to put it together with all the shims (sleeve goes on first, shims on top of it), except leave the seal out; and using your dial indicator, see how much end play you have. Then reduce your shim pack by that amount, and repeat. Always check the bearing preload before torquing the nut!!!! After a couple of reps of the above, you should be able to zero in on the correct thickness. Look for about 20-25 in-lbs of torque to turn the pinion. Torque on th enut doesn't much matter at this point, as long as it's enough to force the yoke all the way on, down to the spacer & shims.
I've never had much luck using the "measure the crush sleeve" method; at least, not any better than the above. Still takes a couple of tries, usually, to get it right. The crush sleeve method doesn't save any time.
A tail bearing that's been honed out a bit to where the pinion slips through it, makes it easier. Then put an un-honed one in the housing when you get it where you want it, put the seal in, and put the pinion in, and tighten the nut.
I see no particular reason to stop at 140 ft-lbs specifically... although, that SHOULD be enough. But this is not a situation where the actual torque value matters much. More is better, up to the strength of the parts.
I've never had much luck using the "measure the crush sleeve" method; at least, not any better than the above. Still takes a couple of tries, usually, to get it right. The crush sleeve method doesn't save any time.
A tail bearing that's been honed out a bit to where the pinion slips through it, makes it easier. Then put an un-honed one in the housing when you get it where you want it, put the seal in, and put the pinion in, and tighten the nut.
I see no particular reason to stop at 140 ft-lbs specifically... although, that SHOULD be enough. But this is not a situation where the actual torque value matters much. More is better, up to the strength of the parts.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
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Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
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Re: Crush sleeve eliminator
I just measured my old crush sleeve, then added .002" or so. Then tightened it until is screamed in pain, and checked the drag. Within spec - ok.
Done deal. I also try to use red-loctite, and chisel the nut in place so it's never going to come off (easily).
Done deal. I also try to use red-loctite, and chisel the nut in place so it's never going to come off (easily).
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