Changing rear axles (3.42 OWP to 3.42 POSI)

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May 1, 2008 | 06:07 AM
  #1  
Hey guys, I received a rear end out of a '87 Iroc-Z it's a G92 axle, with drum brakes.. I haven't taken it apart yet, but I'm just wondering how much work it is to change the pig, and the axles. I have done it on a Ford 9", is it similar? Thanks, KP.
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May 1, 2008 | 01:38 PM
  #2  
Re: Changing rear axles (3.42 OWP to 3.42 POSI)
changing the axles is very easy. All you do is pop the cover off pull the center pin if its a posi and then have a buddy push the axles in and pull the C clips then they slide right out. Obviously you have to pull the drums first. Changing the ring and pinion is a little more involved, but if you know how to set preload and backlash its not that bad. There's several good tech articles on this forum with some good tips and tricks
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May 2, 2008 | 05:46 AM
  #3  
Re: Changing rear axles (3.42 OWP to 3.42 POSI)
Awesome, thanks. My buddy tried to tell me you have to torque some nut to 350 pounds, and that it was impossible to do on the floor..
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May 3, 2008 | 10:14 PM
  #4  
Re: Changing rear axles (3.42 OWP to 3.42 POSI)
Your buddy's probably referring to how much torque it takes to start collapsing a new crush sleeve. You only need to do this if you mess with the pinion gear. I usually use a really strong impact wrench to get a new crush sleeve started. Of course, you can avoid having to do that too if you use a solid pinion spacer instead of the crush sleeve. I use solid spacers in every rear I set up. Just seems a lot easier to me versus messing with a crush sleeve, not to mention the solid spacer holds up better under high horsepower. I helped a buddy set up his 12 bolt a while back, and he insisted on using a crush sleeve. I couldn't believe how much torque it took to get the sleeve to start collapsing. It was a royal PITA. I used the solid spacer on mine, and was able to achieve the proper pinion bearing preload only using a small breaker bar to tighten the nut.
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