UVA3rdGen

dang pinion gears are failing and have a feeling the carrier bearing are the way out. I have a 92 auburn rear with with 3.4 gears with 23,000 very hard driven miles on it. Is it worth investing in $120 kit of bearings and shims or should i just try to find another rear? Also do you guys have enough play in your gears that allow a loud knock when load is put on and taken off the driveshaft or it is the busted pinion bearing that allowing that to happen???

UVA3rdGen

I really need to stop posting at 1 in the morning, my english just about stops past 12. Hmmm get a bad feeling I will not get any feedback on this one.

Kevin91Z

iTrader: (1)

There is a tech article here on rebuilding a 10-bolt, check it out.

------------------
1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed (originally 305)
13.25 @ 107.18 MPH
Southern California
Member: SoCal 3rd Gen F-Bodies
Webmaster: SoCal F-Bodies
-=ICON Motorsports=-

TomP

If it's just your carrier bearings, I'd say to get it rebuilt. This way you don't have to monkey around with a questionable junkyard rear brake setup.


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards

ede

i just built a 10 bolt for my car. the richmond install kit was 100 dollars with both carrier bearings and both pinion bearings. plus seal, gaskets, loctite, sealer, and shims. only problem i had was over thighting the pinion nut. had to try it 3 times before i got the correct preload on the bearings. had to make a trip to the chevy dealer each time for a new nut and crush sleeve.

------------------
-=ICON MOTORSPORTS=-

UVA3rdGen

Thanks ede, that is one of my major concerns also. They say to torque the nut with the same amount used to remove it. Approxately how tight would you say to tighten it? Also did you buy the richmond set for your richmond gears or are they compatible with OEM equiptment.

ede

you don't really torque the pinion nut, you tighten it untill you have 25 inch pounds of preload on the pinion bearings. use a dial type inch pound torque wrench and spin the pinion and see how much resistance the wrench reads. i could get it too 10 to 15 inch pounds and then go back to my 3/4 drive tools and over tighten it to 75 inch pounds by moving the nut 1 flat, or so. doesn't take much, i'd say when i finially got it right i was only moving the nut a few degrees and then checking the preload. you'll have to make something to hold the pinion yoke too. i use a 1/4 x 4" x 4' piece of steel with a hole big enought for a socket to go thru and 4 holes for the bolts to hold the yoke.

------------------
-=ICON MOTORSPORTS=-