How do you adjust a hydrolic clutch? It may be a stupid question but it is still there. My clutch does not disengage all of the way. Like sitting at a stop light with the clutch fully depressed car still tries to go. How does a person fix that?

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91RS, 305, 5-speed, black with pearl white racing stripes. Not that it matters, but K&N airfilter and flowmaster exhaust

 

There's no adjustment in a hydraulic clutch.

From the problem you describe, something's not working right. Either the hydraulics aren't pushing the clutch disc all the way (unlikely) or something about the clutch still couples force from the engine to the trans when the clutch is disengaged. A bad pilot bearing is the usual culprit. That's a small bearing or bushing that fits into the rear of the crank, and the front of the trans plugs into it. If it doesn't turn freely, then the engine will still be trying to turn the trans even when the clutch is properly disengaged.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

 

It sounds like you either have hydraulic clutch failure or air in the system. If you have never opened the system and this just started recently then it is probably failure. Fluid under pressure is leaking past the primary seals in either the master or slave cylinder. Chances are it is NOT the pilot bearing, when pilot bearings go bad you can end up with some clutch chatter but one that wears out usually can't bind (if it wears out the hole becomes bigger, not smaller).

If you just installed the clutch if you let the transmission hang on the clutch disc it could of bent the hub or not tightening down the pressure plate unevenly may of bent the flange which can cause it not to release properly. If the clutchfork is off the stud it can also cause a release problem as can the throw-out bearing being on wrong (in a position to bind).

Try bleeding the hydraulics first. For this you will need an assitant and an allen wrench. Have someone push down the clutch pedal until it is on the floor then you open the bleeder on the slave cylinder until nothing comes out. Some air will not come out until after a good shot of fluid. Then close it and tell you assistant to take his foot off the pedal, pump it 5 times, then hold it down and repeat the opening of the bleeder. Watch the fluid in the resiviour, it can go down quickly. The bleeder screw is METAL and the slave cylinder is PLASTIC. It strips out easy, make it snug. If your oil pan is painted, the brakefluid will dissolve it. Find a suitable way to block if off. It will also burn if it gets in your eyes, make sure not to hold your head under it and be CAREFUL. Always keep the car jacked up properly. Don't forget that brake fluid eats through paint and always use DOT3 from a seal container. Good luck and let me know.

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1984 WS6 Trans Am Hartop
Former L69 Car under restoration
1984 WS6 Trans Am T-top car
4-bolt main 350, headers, Holley 650, T-5 and 3.23's.
Daily driver and restoration

 

I'm having a similar problem. My clutch was just replaced and now it won't fully disengage. Chevystud, did you just replace yours? I will try bleeding the system to see if it works.

Chip