The person I bought my 1987 IROC from said that when they rebuild the T-5 he did not get the shift arms for the 5th gear on right and now it won't shift into 5th gear. Could anyone give some insight on this, he also said that the 5th gear is on the external linkage or around there.
-Tom

------------------
Just bought a 1987 Black 305 TPI 5spd IROC, seems to be fully loaded, but can't find RPO codes, any other places besides the center console.

[This message has been edited by camaro6spd (edited May 01, 2001).]

 

OK, I just did this!

The OD(5th) gear is in the tail housing, so total disassembly is not necessary. It does require removing the transmission though!

Drain as much fluid as you can from the trans.

Remove the shifter, and take out the trans.

Using a 3/16" punch, drive out the roll pin holding the shifter block in position on the shifter lever.

Remove the 8 bolts hold the tail housing onto the case. While pushing down the shifter block, pull the tail housing away from the main case (light prying may be necessary!) More fluid will drain when case is split (about another 1/2 quart!) Retrieve the rollpin and ball bearing and spring from the shifter housing and don't lose them!!

Now you should be able to see the 5th gear, shifter lever, etc. The configuration of the shifter fork/gear should be that the OD gear is closest to the case and always engaged with the gear (the blocker/synchro is what engages the gear) the shifter fork should be around the slider and the other end should be on another shift lever rod. On the end attached to the lever rod, it should be kind of flat to the rear of the trans and the other side should look like it is projecting towards the trans case. That is probably what is wrong. There is another roll pin (3/16" also) that needs to be driven out, and a tru-arc snap ring next to the gear cluster stuff. The shift- fork/syncro/slider/blocker ring will slide off as a complete unit. Make the corrections as necessary, and the whole package can slide back on as a complete unit as well.

Clean off any silicone material on the case and tailhousing and rub lightly with a Scotchbrite pad, then make sure both surfaces are clean and dry. I used Permatex Ultra-Black, put some on the tail housing and smear it around so the whole surface is coated and fairly even.

Make sure the trans is still in neutral, put the shifter block ball bearing in the neutral detent, put the spring back in the pocket of the shifter block (I held it in place with a little heavy wheel bearing grease). Put the shifter block spring directly on the ball bearing, and slowly slide the entire assembly over the shift lever rod. The shifter block roll pin hole should line right up with the hole on the shift lever rod. Put the roll pin back by lightly tapping with a hammer until it is all the way in. Put the 8 bolts back in the the tail housing (a little Ultra-black on the top 2 bolts and 1 down from the top on the pass. side.) You'll see that those 3 bolts go inside the trans, not on the outside of the case) and torque to specs (I think it's around 26 ft/lbs)

Put the trans back in the car, put the fluid back in (easiest if you pour it in thru the shifter whole, but go slow!) (You DID make sure the drain plug was tightened, right?!!) Replace the shifter and all should be well!

I found that the job wasn't nearly as scary as it seemed when I did mine! For any other info, or parts you may need, I highly recommend Hanlon Motorsports in PA (www.hanlonmotorsports.com) They are extremely knowledgeable and have a huge supply of parts available.

Hope this helps,
Paul

 

Thanks so much for the detailed description. I will be sure to do this when I pull the 305 this summer. I will let you know how it goes.
-Tom