700r4 hammering noise
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Oakland Co., MI
Car: 86 Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.42
700r4 hammering noise
Brought home a 1991 formula 350 yesterday. Bought the car not running (stupid? maybe). Got the engine started last night and there was a loud hammering sound from the rear of the engine. My first thought was torque converter bolts might be loose. Checked it today and sure enough one was backed out about half way. Tightened all of the bolts and the noise is still there. So I removed all of the bolts from the converter and pushed it back, ran the engine, and no more noise. Has anyone ever experienced a failure in the front of the 700 trans that could be similar to this?
I put the car in gear and it engaged forward and reverse. Didn't drive it though because the engine has some bugs left to work out ->stalls when put in gear.
On a side note-The converter looks like it might be a B&M, judging by the dark blue color (could be anything I guess). Anyone know if B&M converters have a part number or something to I.D. them?
Thanks,
ST
I put the car in gear and it engaged forward and reverse. Didn't drive it though because the engine has some bugs left to work out ->stalls when put in gear.
On a side note-The converter looks like it might be a B&M, judging by the dark blue color (could be anything I guess). Anyone know if B&M converters have a part number or something to I.D. them?
Thanks,
ST
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,906
Likes: 240
From: Chicagoland Suburbs
Car: 1989 Trans Am GTA
Engine: LT1, AFR 195cc, 231/239 LE cam.
Transmission: M28 T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10bolt waiting to explode.
Re: 700r4 hammering noise
Brought home a 1991 formula 350 yesterday. Bought the car not running (stupid? maybe). Got the engine started last night and there was a loud hammering sound from the rear of the engine. My first thought was torque converter bolts might be loose. Checked it today and sure enough one was backed out about half way. Tightened all of the bolts and the noise is still there. So I removed all of the bolts from the converter and pushed it back, ran the engine, and no more noise. Has anyone ever experienced a failure in the front of the 700 trans that could be similar to this?
I put the car in gear and it engaged forward and reverse. Didn't drive it though because the engine has some bugs left to work out ->stalls when put in gear.
On a side note-The converter looks like it might be a B&M, judging by the dark blue color (could be anything I guess). Anyone know if B&M converters have a part number or something to I.D. them?
Thanks,
ST
I put the car in gear and it engaged forward and reverse. Didn't drive it though because the engine has some bugs left to work out ->stalls when put in gear.
On a side note-The converter looks like it might be a B&M, judging by the dark blue color (could be anything I guess). Anyone know if B&M converters have a part number or something to I.D. them?
Thanks,
ST
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Oakland Co., MI
Car: 86 Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.42
Re: 700r4 hammering noise
It's probably worth a look. Did it make noise just sitting in park and revving the engine?
Thanks,
ST
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Oakland Co., MI
Car: 86 Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.42
Re: 700r4 hammering noise
Today I figured out that if I pull the TV cable the noise goes away. Also, when the throttle is put to WOT the cable is stopping it before it gets there. I adjusted the cable all of the way out (toward the front of the car) and now it will allow WOT.
Anyone have a thought as to what this might be?:?
Wrong TV cable maybe? My information says there should be a metal set button/tab on the cable. The one on the car has a plastic c-clip that must be pryed out with a screwdriver.
Anyone have a thought as to what this might be?:?
Wrong TV cable maybe? My information says there should be a metal set button/tab on the cable. The one on the car has a plastic c-clip that must be pryed out with a screwdriver.
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