michael

iTrader: (1)

Heres a scenario:

Sitting at a light car in first clutch pedal depressed all the way. Car slowly trys to pull forward where you have to hold the brake pedal also.

Now which has developed into vibrating the car slightly (toasted clutch) when leaving lights and sitting still while in gear and brake pedal depressed. Traffic has been a main cause of the wear.

This all stems from a year and a half ago driving home going to depress the pedal and grab the next gear and the pedal just pushing to the floor because the flange on the bearing sheered off on the pressure plate. Leaving me stranded.

I'm recovering from hernia surgery and noticed the last day of driving it before I had surgery that it was getting real bad once I got closer too home from the traffic from construction on the highway. So before I head back to work when I'm released I will have to drop the trans change the clutch again and this time replace which ever part is causing it to not disengage the clutch all the way. Sad thing is since being off work and work comp only paying x amount each week I don't have $200 to shell out for new hydraulics at gm so I have to swap out the part that is bad.

I do have a miti vac (sp) so bleeding the air wont be an issue although I don't remember the steps for the clutch system as to the correct pressure as I tryed this when the clutch was changed last and it didn't fix the problem then. Being my first clutch I was told the clutch might just have to wear down some. So I went with that for a bit, but the wonderful facts of life with this and that and the other I haven't seen $200 bucks at once for the last year and a half and anything that ever got put up for a new setup always had to get used for something else.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (2)

What mfg/model clutch/FW/PP do you have? I (and others) have had to use washers to shim the slave back from the bellhousing, to allow it to fully disengage.

My clutch is a McLeod Street Twin so may be an extreme case, but it's easy and cheap enough to try.

(Make sure you always break in a new clutch easy for 500mi, otherwise it can wear down fast)

michael

iTrader: (1)

Well I didn't do the conversion it was already done when I purchased the car. So the flywheel I'm not sure about. The clutch I replaced was a stage 2 ram clutch and I was tight on cash so it got replaced with a every day oreily's clutch kit for about 1/3 of the cost. I don't do anything but daily drive it anyway so I don't need to be spending 600+ on a clutch setup. I can try the washers and see what that does. I'm affraid its too late though for this clutch I may get some more miles out of it, but its chattering already and with the constant threat of traffic in Arlington because of the Cowboys stadium construction I'm bound to knock what life it has left down fast.

michael

iTrader: (1)

bumping it up just incase there are other ideas I wont be physically able to try the above washer trick out till next weekend as its only been 1 week since surgery.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (2)

I threw the washers out there as a cheap/easy check.. Beyond that, look to air in the hydraulics (you said you've bled them though) and possibly either the master or slave having a leaking seal. (If you can pump up the pedal and get it to stop, this is likely the cause).

BTW, to share your pain, I just got cut yesterday, so I'm just starting my 2-4 week recovery period with no lifting.. I've got 2 T56s on the bench in pieces too... Guess they'll still be there when I'm ready... :-p

michael

iTrader: (1)

U get cut on the abdomen (sp) or belly button? If I pump up the pedal it makes no difference and still wont release all the way.