how hard is it removing the pan and don't u have to remove that crossmember? also, wuts the best way to get as much fluid out as possible?

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- David
88' GTA 5.7L TPI MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass, Gutted CAT, Flowmaster 80 Series

 

There is a trick I learned from another builder but it requires a pressure gauge. You hook it up and take all of your readings and then shut it off. Now take the head off of the gauge and put the hose in a bucket and restart the car. The oil goes into the bucket until it starts to sputter. Now shut it off and let it sit fot a minute and repeat the process as oil will settle out. This gets allot of it out and allows you to take the pan off W/O a huge mess. You should be able to get the pan off W/O taking the crossmember out.

[This message has been edited by transfixleo (edited September 30, 2001).]

 

can't i just unhook the cooling lines from the radiator and do the same thing? and also, is it safe to be running it with no tranny fluid?

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- David
88' GTA 5.7L TPI MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass, Gutted CAT, Flowmaster 80 Series


[This message has been edited by breathment (edited September 30, 2001).]

 

Well if your major concern is the fluid and not the filter you could take a line off and flush it that way. I wouldent do it though.
You could take the pan off an get one with a drain plug or do it cheap and get a large nut and bolt and make a drain plug. Just take the pan to a place that does welding and have them brase it on and you got yourself a drain plug.
SSC

 

well im going to change the filter also, but at the same time i want to try and get as much fluid out as possible. would it be ok if i were to take off the pan, change filter, put on new filter, and put the pan back on, and then start it back up and let the rest of the fluid run out? re-attach the lines from the radiator, and fill it up with however much it takes? anything bad or dangerious doing that?

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- David
88' GTA 5.7L TPI MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass, Gutted CAT, Flowmaster 80 Series

 

Nothing bad about any of those. Taking the cooler line off and draining the pan via running the engine reduces the amount you have to drain when you drop the pan to get to the filter (less mess). Then, after the pan is back on, put in as much new fluid as you drained out, start it up again to get another 3-4 quarts out of the cooler line while topping it off with new; shut the engine off, reattach the lines, top it off to the full mark with the engine running and at operating temperature. The second running out of the cooler lines will get the old fluid out of the converter.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. 2-1/2" cat-back, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 CC system w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback, restalled TC, Spohn SFCs).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).

[This message has been edited by five7kid (edited October 02, 2001).]