Clutch fork pivot issue- weird clutch feeling
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Boyertown, PA
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 91 L98 long block with Pro-jection
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 91 10bolt w/ 3.42s and T2R
Clutch fork pivot issue- weird clutch feeling
I'm posting this for posterity in hopes it'll help someone.
So the other day I noticed that it was getting difficult to get the clutch pedal all the way down, and therefore hard to engage the interlock to start the car. After a bit, the pedal got to the point where it would encounter LOTS of resistance about 2" from the floor. IT got wrse from there, eventually getting to the point that the car would not shift well wince the clutch wouldn't fully disengage. Since it's hydraulic, I tried pumping the hell out of it. Suddenly, it would travel fully to the floor again and disengage, but at the spot where it previously stopped, now it just got much stiffer (felt like it had two stages). Fluid is the reservior was ugly. I checked the pedal assembly and removed a "spare" piece of insulation, but no change.
So I finally jacked the sucker up, and lo and behold, the clutch pivot had backed out of the bellhousing by about 1-1/2 turns.
I'm told that the drive on this is 10mm hex, but I will also say there is a rib on the trans that is in the way. In the end, a straight 3/8 key did the trick. I tried a ball-end 10mm key, but the rib on the trans. was still in the way (the shoulder on the ball end of the key kept hitting that trans rib, and it wouldn't fully engage). Note to self and all- consider grinding down that rib the next time you have the transmission out. And I did put a few drops of green lock-tite on just for good measure...
Oh yeah, and now the clutch works great and easy again.
So the other day I noticed that it was getting difficult to get the clutch pedal all the way down, and therefore hard to engage the interlock to start the car. After a bit, the pedal got to the point where it would encounter LOTS of resistance about 2" from the floor. IT got wrse from there, eventually getting to the point that the car would not shift well wince the clutch wouldn't fully disengage. Since it's hydraulic, I tried pumping the hell out of it. Suddenly, it would travel fully to the floor again and disengage, but at the spot where it previously stopped, now it just got much stiffer (felt like it had two stages). Fluid is the reservior was ugly. I checked the pedal assembly and removed a "spare" piece of insulation, but no change.
So I finally jacked the sucker up, and lo and behold, the clutch pivot had backed out of the bellhousing by about 1-1/2 turns.
I'm told that the drive on this is 10mm hex, but I will also say there is a rib on the trans that is in the way. In the end, a straight 3/8 key did the trick. I tried a ball-end 10mm key, but the rib on the trans. was still in the way (the shoulder on the ball end of the key kept hitting that trans rib, and it wouldn't fully engage). Note to self and all- consider grinding down that rib the next time you have the transmission out. And I did put a few drops of green lock-tite on just for good measure...
Oh yeah, and now the clutch works great and easy again.
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