This needs to be a sticky.
This is the guy that tought me how to build the Eaton Posi back in the '80s. This should be helpfull to many people.
This also works on the 8.5 Traction Lock, 9 inch, 8.8 and 7.5 Ford Trac Lock and sevral other differentials that use flat clutches. I go ahead and install the preload springs. Tom doesn't use preload springs. This is a choice that you will have to make on your own.

 

Very helpful.
Any thoughts on lb-ft values instead of "this spins too easy, this is just right" ? I don't think You or Tom needs them, but for a beginner, they'd be helpful.

 

If I can hold it by hand and turn it without my hands slipping around it then it's not tight enough. It should be tight enough that you have to grip it hard to turn it. I know that this isn't going to help much, but it's the best that I can do. If you do one yourself I think you will understand once you try it. Also, when you get to the point where it's tight enough it will be hard to get the thrust washers behind the pinion gears. If it's too tight you won't be able to get them in no matter how hard you try. It's also very important to test fit the axles before you put it back in the rear end. If you get it too tight you won't be able to get the cross shaft in with the axles and c clips installed. Tom has a selection of c clips in different thicknesses, but you will probably have to use what you have. In a case where the shaft will not go in you might have to use thinner shims behind the clutches so that you can get the shaft back in with the axles and c clips installed, or cut the ends of the axles a little, or get the c clips ground thinner.

 

There is a few pages in the FSM that tells how to check it with a TQ wrench and one wheel on the ground and one wheel off.
(thats the short version and of course there is a way to check it on the bench, also using a TQ spec)