Okay so I started taking my bird to the race track and got massive slip off the line and a one wheel burn out...so I bought a spool then as I took my diff cover off to install it I found that my rear end was sapose to be posi (both wheels spin until some one holds the hub with no tire on the it spins one side without the other) and my uncle put a spool in a posi and said that it was even more then a pain then was necessary and its not strictly strip so lsd or posi is better then completely solid. So i guess i need help where can i get parts to fix it? Should i just run the spool? Should i just replace it? Ohh my bird is a 91 so it has the 7.5 inch 28 spline i believe from the research i have done also when i took the diff cover off the gears looked in okay shape but the magnet had a- what i feel- and excessive amount shavings on it which stayed attach after soaking in solvent all night how would i get rid of those shavings. Any advice would be awesome if you need more info my buddy took a video as we spun it and we took pics I am ganna take one of the diff cover before I paint it

 

I would only run a spool if the car is a drag race only car, If its a car that sees both strip and street then go with the posi. LSD and Posi is the same thing basically.To find part for it, really just do a search, Summit, Jegs, and so many others sells parts for these rear ends.
Scrape off all those shavings then check the back lash, then check to see how the gears are meshing together and where they are.

 

You might check the 10-Bolt FAQ sticky at the top of the page for info that may be useful.

JamesC

 

If your car had the G80 limited slip option then it would have been the Auburn differential. That would explain the metal on the magnet. As the Auburn wears it fills the rear end with metal. I think the Auburn is one of the worst differentials on the market and I would not use one in anything if there was anything else available. The Auburn is also not rebuildable, so you will have to replace it.

The Eaton Posi or Yukon Dura Grip are much better differentials. I recommend Tom's Differentials for the Eaton or Randy's Ring & Pinion for the Dura Grip. Both of these places have very good installation kits too. Summit and Jeg's only sell the junk installation kits.

The mini spool will not work in the Auburn case. I don't recommend using it anyway. They are designed for dirt track racing and should only be used for that.

 

Cool thanks for the advice where do I find the options codes? How do I check for play. My brother also reqamended Randy's but I guess I just didn't know what I was looking for

 

From the look of the images on Randy it look as if I have the dura grip and not the auburn from what I can see on mine I got two yellow springs that face me.

 

The Auburn has 5 springs. Look inside and you will see 3 more springs toward the back. The Dura Grip and Eaton have 4 springs. I'm sure that you don't have the Dura Grip unless someone installed it in the last few years. The Eaton and Dura Grip were never factory installed in the 3rd or 4th gen.

 

Ohh so chances are I got a worn out of worst option for posi that isn't rebuildable? Any cheaper options then the 500 for a new lsd?

 

Did you check with Tom's Differentials or Randy's Ring & Pinion? They are cheaper than $500. Don't mess with Summit or Jeg's for rear end parts.

 

So why do you keep saying not to mess with Summit or Jegs? They both sell some quality parts if you know what you're buying.

 

Summit and Jeg's installation kits are crap, all of them. Their sales people don't know squat about rear ends unless it's on the computer in front of them. Their prices on the Eaton Posi are too high.

Randy's and Tom's work on rear ends every day. They know what works and what doesn't and they can give you quality service on rear end parts. Their prices are good and their installation kits are very good.

 

I checked both and they are both pushing 500

 

Go to ebay and check with a seller using the name monzaz. He was my partner in parts when I was running my rear end business. He will probably give you a much better price on the Dura Grip. Or go to his websight www.jdrace.com

 

ahh once again I love ebay but how do I know which ones are good should I stick to the dura grip?

 

requesting more info on the eaton gov lock what is it how does it work?

 

Detroit TrueTrac is the best LSD for the 10 bolt, it is gears not clutches or cones so it doesn't wear out and it puts the power to the wheel with traction, can't recommend it high enough.
It is basically the same as the Torsen that came in the 4th gen tenbolt ls cars.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dt...make/chevrolet

 

If you contact the ebay member that I listed above and tell him you want the good Yukon installation kit he will get you what you need. Most of the kits on ebay are not the good ones. The thing about ebay is that everybody is trying to underbid everybody else, so they sell the cheapest stuff they can get. You have to ask for the better stuff.

The Yukon Dura Grip is a good differential. The only real difference between it and the Eaton Posi is the clutch material. The Eaton uses carbon fiber and the Dura Grip uses a Raybestos material. Eaton Posi and Dura Grip parts interchange.

The Gov Lock uses a governor with a gear on the end and a cam with a gear on it to apply pressure on clutches. The thing that usually breaks first is the gear on the governor. After that breaks you have a standard differential because it will not lock up anymore. The case is also weak and several people have exploded them.

 

$429.00 for a 28 spline Eaton Posi = http://www.tomsdifferentials.com/tomp.htm
Page 37

 

awesome feed back guys I just wanna do a little more research before I go ahead and purchase a new one. now big gear head when that gov lock one breaks you said it acts as an open diff, but when you'd jack it up and spin the tires would the both go in the same direction? becasue the way that type of diff fails sounds alot like mine and I wanna make sure mine needs completly replaced or if it is just rebuildable

 

The Gov Lock will always act like a standard differential when you jack it up and spin one wheel, even if it's in good condition. You have to spin it fast enough to make the governor lock before it will spin both wheels.

 

okay I asked around at the local track and people are saying just to go to as scrap yard get a rear end out of a monte and put the spool in and sell the rear I have now to someone who doesn't know what they want "it'll give you a little higher gears" which is alright I mean I do alot of highway and am all about saving gas for the strip. ether that or gut the rear and put in a Detroit locker

 

Don't install a spool if you plan on driving this on the street. First of all it's very dangerous because they cause axles and other parts to break when used on the street, and second it will make the car handle very bad. A spool is for racing only and should never be used on the street. You need to get a new posi. A Yukon Dura Grip would be the best buy. Contact Jim at www.jdrace.com and see what kind of a deal he will make you.

 

lol alright I'll tell him big gear head from third gen told me to hit him up

 

okay so people were also saying that I might need to look into hardened axles is that just with the spool or something I should consider with a new LSD in it as well? fairly stock 350 just headers and a "chip" re"built" 700r4 running street slicks

 

The deal with axles is this = If your car is a 90 or newer than chances are you already have the stronger 28 spline axles. That means you buy a posi unit that will accept the 28 spline axles. I have found that axles that are made for drag racing are not the best choice for your car if you drive it on the street. There just not made for it. They make a street strip grade of axle or just a straight street version is best and you should all ready have that.
Just so you know there is nothing inexpensive about building a 10 bolt.
This will give you a ballpark figure on price and what parts will be necessary for the swap.( If you decide to use your existing ring and pinion subtract that along with the price of the axles)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...de-photos.html

 

Hardened axle tubes? I had someone weld up my axle housing tubes to strengthen the rear end a bit, but once you keep replacing rear end parts, you will end up regretting not going to something bigger than a 8.5 or 9" rear end. I started with the Australian Borg Warner 9 bolt with a .277 posi gear. The 9 bolt's carrier was replaced once and after the second time of chewing up the posi unit, I had a 10 bolt built. I was told to get an Auburn in the build, and it failed within 300 miles. I got an Eaton posi (28 spline) and love it. I had the 10 bolt built twice since the Auburn failure AND ring gear/pinion failure. Long story short, I would have been way better off getting a strange 9" than doing anything with the 10 bolt. I would have saved a lot of cash too.

 

He said hardened axles.

Will you tell us what you were doing with the car or what tires you were running or if you have a automatic or manual, what size engine you have or if you invested in a support cover. Was the installer a pro. And this I don't understand .= "you will end up regretting not going to something bigger than a 8.5 or 9" rear end" ????

We need more info from you to
make sense of your reply.




Most start with this =

Simply go to USER CP
then
EDIT YOUR DETAILS
then fill in the last 4 lines at the bottom of the page.
Car =
Engine =
Transmission =
Axle/Gears =
If "everyone" did this it would make it so much easier to help them with their questions or reply to their comments.
It would be nice if that were mandatory during the joining of this site.


The shop that did my install (called "The Rear End Shop" ) said to upgrade to 28 spline axles from 26 and use the 28 spline Eaton Posi. with the L.P.W. support cover and that should allow me to push the ten bolt hard with the set up I'm running now ,including anything up to a 350 upgrade pushing around 400 hp. when the time comes. Keep in mind this is with the auto trans and street tires,that can be considered a soft launch. If your planing on pushing your car with sticky tires/slicks or even street strip tires/hard launch, than a 9in.or 12 bolt is the way to go. My car is a street car and I really have no need for either of those, although with all the praise concerning the two I had considered them.

 

Your '91 should alreay have the good 28 spline AAM axles in it. I don't think you will have any problems out of them unless they are worn where the bearings run on them.