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Pulling out a 10 bolt and installing a 9 bolt

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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 11:06 AM
  #1  
instaldave's Avatar
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From: Perkasie, PA
Car: 1987 Trans AM
Engine: 355 4-bolt, L98 heads, Holley 650DP
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9-bolt
Pulling out a 10 bolt and installing a 9 bolt

Like the title says. I'm pulling the stock 10 bolt open rear with drums and installing a 9 bolt posi with discs. What should I expect? I have the proportioning valve but I'm not sure what else I'll need. I'm trying to make sure I have everything so the swap goes smoothly and I'm not stuck waiting for parts with a car half apart.
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 03:13 PM
  #2  
hectre13's Avatar
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From: SE Michigan
Car: 1984 15th Anv. T/A
Engine: HO 5.0
Transmission: TH700r4
Axle/Gears: not sure yet!
Re: Pulling out a 10 bolt and installing a 9 bolt

I just did this myself.. but I swapped my existing disc brakes on from my previous rear end.

its pretty straight forward.. everything bolts up exactly the same way.. you'll want to replace all the bushings while you are down there, fluid change, etc. take your time with it. as for the brake swap stuff.. I won't be able to help much from the drums to discs.

Good luck!
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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 03:49 PM
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Re: Pulling out a 10 bolt and installing a 9 bolt

i did the swap did not change the proportioning valve. and it took me maybe 3 hours. been great for me. something that confused me was how the driver side caliper was mounted on the back side of the rotor and the passenger side was mounted on the front of the rotor. does anyone have tips on hooking up the emergency brake? i never did
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Old Feb 11, 2016 | 09:27 AM
  #4  
a62belair's Avatar
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From: Cambridge, MD
Car: 88 Firebird, 87 Formula
Engine: 2.8, 5.0
Transmission: both 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42,3.45
Re: Pulling out a 10 bolt and installing a 9 bolt

I had the same swap. Make sure the E-brake cables come with the new rear... if possible; this will save you from E-brake headaches. I didn't swap the prop valve, so I can't comment there. Went from a (10-bolt)2:77 drum to a 3:45 posi/disc. Very happy with the swap- now need to get the speedo gears out of my V6 with a 3:42 rear for a happy speedometer. I use an old phone with GPS currently.
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Old Feb 11, 2016 | 12:00 PM
  #5  
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: Pulling out a 10 bolt and installing a 9 bolt

For the best brake performance, I'd suggest using the combination valve designed for your set-up.

JamesC
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Old Feb 11, 2016 | 12:26 PM
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instaldave's Avatar
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From: Perkasie, PA
Car: 1987 Trans AM
Engine: 355 4-bolt, L98 heads, Holley 650DP
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9-bolt
Re: Pulling out a 10 bolt and installing a 9 bolt

I feel your pain on that front. I currently have a 700r4 from a previous car installed in my car with a cable speedo gear. My car has an electronic speedometer. So I don't even have a working speedo right now. However I got the correct drive and driven gears and speed sensor from user John in RI. When I do the rear swap next month I plan on installing the correct parts on the transmission and finally having a working speedometer.

Originally Posted by a62belair
I had the same swap. Make sure the E-brake cables come with the new rear... if possible; this will save you from E-brake headaches. I didn't swap the prop valve, so I can't comment there. Went from a (10-bolt)2:77 drum to a 3:45 posi/disc. Very happy with the swap- now need to get the speedo gears out of my V6 with a 3:42 rear for a happy speedometer. I use an old phone with GPS currently.
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