89rubberburner

So I have reassembled everything and did a few more pattern checks. I went up to .090.
I figured that looked a little high so I went down to .085. That looked good to me but like I said I'm pretty green at this.
Thats where I left it for now.
I'll post some pics. Wondering what you guys think. Backlash is set at .007 . Preload is 14 and all the new bearings and races are in there

89rubberburner

This is with .090
This is .085
​​​​​​​

big gear head

OK, you finally got past the correct depth, because this pattern is too deep. So now you know that it's between .080 and .085. Probably about .082 will do it. You are very close now.

lt500r55

I would make sure the pinion bearing race is seated all the way in the housing I had this problem way to many years ago to be certain of it but if I remember correctly... race not seated leads to too much shim... just trying to point out a possible detail. does that make sense or do I have it backwards. Dan

89rubberburner

Dan I would think that a race not fully seated would make the pinion higher. I am sure it's seated onto the shims.
I will pull out a few thousands and post some more pics. At least I have the whole bearing thing figured out now.
Thankss for the input.

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

I found this:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...-bearings.html

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

big gear head is correct. Now your closest match is this - too deep.

Keep at it. You will be an expert by the time you are finished.
If it was easy, anybody could do it.

89rubberburner

This is .082 I think it's on the shallow side again??? I think I'll throw in another .002 and call it good. What do think guys??
​​​​​​​

big gear head

You are probably right.

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

I agree with that. Just be aware that things might change a little when all is finally torqued for good.
Did you use RED Loctite on the ring gear bolts. If not, DO IT.
You still can use the solid pinion spacer, and after what you have been through, it might be easier. You only get 1 chance with the crush sleeve to get it right. Once you have gone too far, you have to start again with a new one. You might want to use the crush sleeve to get close, then take it out to measure it, then install the solid spacer with shims to equal that measurement. With the spacer, if your pinion bearing preload ever loosens up, you can just simply add a shim.
Record all your settings before you button it up for good.
Good luck.

89rubberburner

First of all I want to thank you guys for the help. Definitely makes it easier on a first timer.
Put the .002 under the pinion. Set the preload at 14 inch pounds ( and now the solid pinion spacer works).
Put the carrier in (hopefully for the last time). Put the caps on and torqued them up. This brought the preload up to 16 inch pounds.
Don't know what that gives me for carrier preload but I couldn't get anymore shims into the carrier anyway.
Backlash stayed at .007 and pattern looked similar to .085
Then I removed the yoke and put the new pinion seal in.
Wiped off all the marking compound and dropped the new TA girdle cover on. Took a little messing around to machine the bearing caps flat. Kinda wish they would offer the kit with new caps. I would have bought it!!

I had used red locktite on the ring gear bolts. I did however decide to use my original bolts even though I had new ones from Raetech. The originals have a real nice washered head on them.
Got it all mounted in the car now withe the new bars and the TA cover it looks pretty darn nice. Hopefully it sounds as good as it looks.
Should last....if I didn't mess anything up!!!
​​​​​​​

big gear head

I hope it works out well for you. You were patient and tried to get it right, so hopefully it will pay off.

89rubberburner

That is where I'm at right now. Tomorrow nite put the new SS brake lines on remount the calipers and tires. Then just wait for the rest of the snow to melt and dry up. Take her out and see how it runs.

Again thanks for all the help!!
​​​​​​​

89rubberburner

Oh yeah. Better not forget to fill it with oil!!!!!!
with that new TA cover it'll hold more oil.
Seens to be a lot of differences in opinion on LSD additive. I bought the GM stuff. How much would you guys add. Gonna use a good quality GL5 75W140 oil but it won't have any additive in it.

big gear head

You are probably going to need about 2 1/2 quarts of oil. I would use 1 bottle of the GM additive to start with. If it pops or groans when turning corners you can add more later. Be sure that you get the oil level correct. Many times the fill hole in those covers is higher than the original fill hole and it's easy to over fill them.

89rubberburner

There is a check hole about 1/2 way up the cover. The plan is to fill it to there. I'll start with one bottle of additive.
Thanks big gear head.

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

Kinda wish they would offer the kit with new caps. I would have bought it!!

The caps are machined with the housing. You cannot just replace them. They are a matched set, and can't be swapped side-to-side or flipped either.
It's just like main caps in the engine. They are line bored and honed. They MUST go back the way they came from the factory.

Sounds like you got it right. You stuck with it and did not give up. I hope it works great.
Pay attention to the level of gear whine you have (if any). If it gets louder over time, there is a problem.
It is very hard to notice yourself, because it ramps up very slowly, and you get used to it because of the small difference.
Have a buddy also make a mental note, and take him for a ride in a couple of weeks,
then a couple more. It will be easier for him to tell if there is any difference.

If you ever do another, RECORD THE PINION DEPTH FIRST.

89rubberburner

I had read enough to mark the caps before I took it apart. Thought it would be possible to put new ones in though. Good info to know. Thanks NoEmissions84TA
I will pay attention to the gear noise and let you guys know how it all turns out!!

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

75W-140 is not a good idea.

Stick with the regular ole Mobil1. 75W-90 if memory serves.

You can use the hole in the new cover to fill through, if it's easier; just, take the stock plug out, and only fill up to that level.

Go to the boat store and buy the pump for filling Merc outdrives. Goes on a gear lube bottle. Makes filling rear axles a breeze.

Now you can torque the pinion nut to like 750 ft-lbs, and NEVER have to worry about it coming loose.

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

Go to the boat store and buy the pump for filling Merc outdrives. Goes on a gear lube bottle. Makes filling rear axles a breeze.

Now you can torque the pinion nut to like 750 ft-lbs, and NEVER have to worry about it coming loose.

Nice tips. Thanks. Now I will used the solid spacer I bought just for that reason, if nothing else.

89rubberburner

That pump worked great. I actually had one on hand. I did pick up some 80w90 oil though.
Got her all back together. Couldn't wait. Had to take it out for a drive. Sounds perfect. No gear noise that we could hear Good news. Definitely glad we took the time and patience to do it up right.
Give her a bit of miles to wear the bearings in then see how them new posi cones grab on pavement !!!!!!

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

Sounds perfect. No gear noise that we could hear Good news. Definitely glad we took the time and patience to do it up right.

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

I just went through this over the last year or so. Very similar build to what you just did except aftermarket 3.70 gears.

My gears are doing great. No issues there.

Unfortunately my rebuilt 3 series carrier from Glenn at 9bolt.com was a complete waste of money and time. It ate itself within 2500 miles. And when I say it ate itself I mean it completely obliterated the driver's side posi cone and the case within that period. Mind you this was on a stock TPI 305 with a slipping 700R4 - both with 155k on them. I have since replaced the auto with a built transmission and 2800 stall converter but that was after the diff was destroyed.

Today I just finished up putting in a Torsen type B Helical from Supa F Spares in Australia. They were great to work with and I'm very happy with the results.

Glenn at 9bolt.com will not return my email with pictures of the problem. I took the carrier apart after swapping it out and I'll upload some pics of that here as well. I have made a post on my Torsen install but it's awaiting admin approval.

The guys on the Commodore/Holden forums talk pretty poor of the stock cone type and claim they are not rebuildable and will not handle abuse at all. They love the Torqueline (Eaton Truetrac copy) available from Supa F Spares.

Please let us know how it goes. Mine started making popping noises and creaking last summer after I put it on the road. I changed the gear oil and changed the additive per Glenn's recommendations. Didn't help in the least. The gear oil looked like silver paint every time I changed it (about 4 times in 2500 miles). It was a complete disaster.

I'm very detail oriented and I'm a shop owner with more than two decades of experience wrenching. Nothing about my installation could have caused the carrier to fail the way it did. The car was not powerful or driven particularly hard - just daily driven to work and home (11 miles each way). The 370 gears were in great condition with an excellent pattern and still measured .010" backlash when I removed the failed cone type carrier.

Rick

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

Is the rear end still holding up?