T56 fork install, no pedal.
#1
Member
Thread Starter
T56 fork install, no pedal.
I just did a T56 swap and my clutch pedal is almost on the floor. I bought the pre-bled master/slave. I'm not sure if I'm getting correct engagement on the clutch fork. It pushes in and feels like it clicks into place, but has a lot of play and doesn't feel right to me. It sits about even with the housing when in place. I tried to push the pedal and I have no travel, it won't even break the band on the slave.
I'm about to pull the transmission back out and check and see if I pulled a dumb *** move and installed the disc backwards.
Any words of advice before I do?
I'm about to pull the transmission back out and check and see if I pulled a dumb *** move and installed the disc backwards.
Any words of advice before I do?
#2
Supreme Member
iTrader: (4)
Re: T56 fork install, no pedal.
The fork into the TO brg has no spring keeping it tight like an old design fork. It is, and will remain "loose" feeling, normally.
Bleeding is free, cheap and easy on the LT1 hydraulics. Drop the slave, line should be pointing down, point the rod of the slave slightly down and plunge it a few dozen times. Air rises. After you bolt things up, clip the slave shipping retainers and give it another try.
Next is the right bolts at the right torque for the pressure plate. The bolts are only torqued to 22 or 25 lb-ft. If overtight, they prevent clutch release. Since they sit in countersunk threaded holes in the flywheel, the thread and shank section need to be correct lengths as well. The smooth shank sticks out of the bottom of the pressure plate and sits just above the threads in the countersunk holes in the flywheel.
It is also possible for the flywheel to be too thick, functionally. This prevents the fork from reaching a far enough height off the pressure plate with the bearing. Sometimes the fork pivot can be shortened / lowered and this helps.
A too-thick clutch disc is possible. And a bad pressure plate. And what you suggested, though it is tough to assemble if the disc hub faces the back of the car.
Bleeding is free, cheap and easy on the LT1 hydraulics. Drop the slave, line should be pointing down, point the rod of the slave slightly down and plunge it a few dozen times. Air rises. After you bolt things up, clip the slave shipping retainers and give it another try.
Next is the right bolts at the right torque for the pressure plate. The bolts are only torqued to 22 or 25 lb-ft. If overtight, they prevent clutch release. Since they sit in countersunk threaded holes in the flywheel, the thread and shank section need to be correct lengths as well. The smooth shank sticks out of the bottom of the pressure plate and sits just above the threads in the countersunk holes in the flywheel.
It is also possible for the flywheel to be too thick, functionally. This prevents the fork from reaching a far enough height off the pressure plate with the bearing. Sometimes the fork pivot can be shortened / lowered and this helps.
A too-thick clutch disc is possible. And a bad pressure plate. And what you suggested, though it is tough to assemble if the disc hub faces the back of the car.