When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 88 GTA trans am tpi
I did a t5 to t56 swap last year
And I have a 2002 alum rear drive shaft
And I have something crazy going on
My brake adjustment under the car is scraping into the alum driveshaft
And it's loud and I just lowered my car and now it's worse
I need to figure out how to hold it back
I just was curious if other ppl had this happen
How do you have your brake lines suspended? Are you using the stock ebrake lever with the adjuster under the car, or the self adjusting style? Do you have the wire guides around the ebrake cables that bolt under the differential cover bolts, or are they just free to bounce around?
The manual style adjuster will probably hang lower simply due to weight. If you don't have the cables snapped into the sheet metal hooks in the trans tunnel, they'll drag on the driveshaft. The later 4th gen driveshaft appears to be a larger diameter than the JG1 - LT1 4th gen variety. Pretty sure all the 4th gens used the wire guides bolted to the diff cover to hold the cables up too.
Alright, here's what I'm talking about... This is a fairly early 91, later cars have the wire guide brackets on the diff cover, I'll try to wrastle up a photo of them for you in a minute...
Ok, notice the stamped steel guides that the cables hook over just behind the yoke? Make sure your cables are hooked in. If they're not, your stuff will rub the driveshaft. Also notice how tightly the self adjuster style ebrake yoke hugs the bottom of the car. Simply by virtue of having a 6-8" chunk of all thread, and a couple lock nuts, the manual adjuster takes up more space and hangs lower when not under tension due to gravity alone. If the cables aren't routed up and over the hooks, your ebrake may still sorta work, but it's not right. It's possible to have one cable hooked and the other unhooked, and still have the parking brake kinda work. Not suggesting that the solution is to convert to the self adjusting lever, just offering one possible reason it could drag, considering it's a combo of parts that GM didn't really design and make to work together.
!Stolen Photos! - Don't go criticizing anything, they're not MY photos, not dollar store jack and stands, so no need to mock the quality of the carpet, yo! </standard RareBM disclaimer>
These are the late style wire guides that bolt to the differential cover. The orientation in this photo looks suspect, but it's the best one I could find in 10 seconds on Google.
I almost forgot about the S-hooks... They'd already been removed by the time I was de-funk-ing my trans tunnel, but you should also have these S hooks retaining the cables at the sleeve anchor points. With most or all of these keepers in place, you shouldn't have anything dragging.
you were 100% right The passenger side cable is stretched 2 inches over the other one and it fell out ten plus years ago it was dangling down for over 15 years when the car had to pass a real saftey they told me to just tighten it and I did and they worked man as soon as I put that cable in the grove bow it's dluch up tight to the floor and it just took it for a ride and the scraping noise is totally gone even on full tank gas looking for bumps I just hope I didn't do major damage to that 2002 aluminum driveshaft are they hollow or solid ?
