break torque burnout
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,269
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Depends. It's not much different than a water burnout at the dragstrip. When done properly, there's no damage.
Start in first gear then once the wheels start spinning, shift to second. Before lifting off the gas, shift to third then don't let the gas off really quick. It's that sudden shock when the wheels catch dry pavement that will do the most damage.
Doing a burnout with street tires does nothing for traction anywhay. All you're doing is making smoke and wearing good rubber off. Street tires don't have the traction oils in the rubber and are not designed to be heated up. The tire manufacturers just love you since you'll be always buying new tires.
Start in first gear then once the wheels start spinning, shift to second. Before lifting off the gas, shift to third then don't let the gas off really quick. It's that sudden shock when the wheels catch dry pavement that will do the most damage.
Doing a burnout with street tires does nothing for traction anywhay. All you're doing is making smoke and wearing good rubber off. Street tires don't have the traction oils in the rubber and are not designed to be heated up. The tire manufacturers just love you since you'll be always buying new tires.
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,164
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From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
And bad for the TC as well. But if done in the above description, I don't see the problem. It's when you just sit there and hold the brakes, this causes a lot of heat in the TC.
Originally posted by Stephen 87 IROC
Depends. It's not much different than a water burnout at the dragstrip. When done properly, there's no damage.
Start in first gear then once the wheels start spinning, shift to second. Before lifting off the gas, shift to third then don't let the gas off really quick. It's that sudden shock when the wheels catch dry pavement that will do the most damage.
Doing a burnout with street tires does nothing for traction anywhay. All you're doing is making smoke and wearing good rubber off. Street tires don't have the traction oils in the rubber and are not designed to be heated up. The tire manufacturers just love you since you'll be always buying new tires.
Depends. It's not much different than a water burnout at the dragstrip. When done properly, there's no damage.
Start in first gear then once the wheels start spinning, shift to second. Before lifting off the gas, shift to third then don't let the gas off really quick. It's that sudden shock when the wheels catch dry pavement that will do the most damage.
Doing a burnout with street tires does nothing for traction anywhay. All you're doing is making smoke and wearing good rubber off. Street tires don't have the traction oils in the rubber and are not designed to be heated up. The tire manufacturers just love you since you'll be always buying new tires.
Moderator


Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,269
Likes: 170
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Get into high gear, 1:1, as soon as possible. If you just leave it in drive it should just shift automatically anyway. It's when in first or second gear that does the most damage when you quickly let off the gas or shock the driveline when you hit dry pavement.
And yes it does build a lot of heat in the torque converter. Heat kills a tranny more than any other failure. Invest in an aftermarket cooler for any car.
It also wears out your rear brakes. Having the brakes applied and doing a burnout will really heat up the rear brakes. Both drum and disk brakes are creating a lot of friction. After doing a burnout you may lose rear braking due to brake fade.
Drag cars like mine use a line lock. This allows you to apply the brakes then electrically through a solinoid, hold the front brakes and release the rear. Then when a burnout is done the rear brakes are not holding. When I cross the finish line at close to 120 mph I want all 4 brakes to slow me down not just the fronts.
And yes it does build a lot of heat in the torque converter. Heat kills a tranny more than any other failure. Invest in an aftermarket cooler for any car.
It also wears out your rear brakes. Having the brakes applied and doing a burnout will really heat up the rear brakes. Both drum and disk brakes are creating a lot of friction. After doing a burnout you may lose rear braking due to brake fade.
Drag cars like mine use a line lock. This allows you to apply the brakes then electrically through a solinoid, hold the front brakes and release the rear. Then when a burnout is done the rear brakes are not holding. When I cross the finish line at close to 120 mph I want all 4 brakes to slow me down not just the fronts.
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