Actually I have two questions, im planing on putting a b&m holeshot 3000 torque converter in my car because of my cam change. I was wondering whats the difference between, lock up and non lock up converters. I was also wondering if anyone knows if these converters are tough enough for nos and supercharging.

 

Do you have the lockup now?, do you want to retain the lockup with the high stall? which is the best way. I would advise against the B&M, because of their history. Pretty bad to say the least. If you want a TC that will hold up to nitrous/super charging, then try the A.C.T. 9.5" lockup TC, it will take 800 hp & give you a one year warranty with a free stall change in that year. Let me know if I can be of help?

 

I am considering the ACT 9.5” converter. I therefore visited the ACT web page to get some further info. ACT advises against lock up for high performance applications. As the main reason for their opinion they claim that there is no lubrication or cooling flow while the lock up is not engaged. This sounds backwards to me. Could someone shed some light on this?

Quote:
AT ACT PERFORMANCE PREFER TO GO WITH THE NON LOCK-UP. THERE ARE MANY REASONS HERE ARE JUST A FEW.
FIRST : WE CAN GAIN FULL LUBE AND FULL COOLER FLOW AT ALL TIMES. REASON: THE FLUID THAT HOLDS THE LOCK-UP CLUTCH IN THE OFF POSITION IS YOUR LUBE AND COOLER OIL. SO IF IN FACT THE TORQUE CONVERTER IS NOT IN THE LOCKED UP STAGE...WE HAVE NO LUBE OR COOLER FLOW. SO IF WE ARE UNDER ACCELERATION OR UNDER LOAD, AND THIS IS WHEN THE TORQUE CONVERTER IS UNDER FULL MULTIPLICATION GENERATING THE MOST HEAT. WE HAVE NO LUBE OR COOLER FLOW WHEN YOU NEED IT MOST.

 

where can you buy these torque converters at? and whats the difference between lockup and non lockup converters, im still new at this auto trans stuff, and does anyone know will I be fine running a manual valve body for a street/strip car, if i have an aftermarket cooler with fan?