Egr
Egr
I've been thinking about EGR. I have no doubt that it helps with gas mileage, but some people have said that removing it would affect performance in a bad way.
I don't understand how. It is only activated below 2/3 throttle, right? Then how would it affect anything if you've got your foot on the floor.
Also, it sends hot air into the throttle body. Removing would seemingly mean lower intake temperatures. HOw would that hinder performance?
The only thing I could think of would be if someone had a really restrictive intake and was getting all of the air they possibly could into the engine, then the EGR might put in extra. But only below 2/3 throttle.
Any ideas?
I don't understand how. It is only activated below 2/3 throttle, right? Then how would it affect anything if you've got your foot on the floor.
Also, it sends hot air into the throttle body. Removing would seemingly mean lower intake temperatures. HOw would that hinder performance?
The only thing I could think of would be if someone had a really restrictive intake and was getting all of the air they possibly could into the engine, then the EGR might put in extra. But only below 2/3 throttle.
Any ideas?
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From: Woodstock, GA
Car: 1987 Trans Am
It runs the same with or without it... I blocked it off on Redraif's car (looks legal, still passes emissions) and could tell no difference, other than the fact that it doesn't leak anymore. If you don't have to pass emissions, remove it...it will get rid of lots of ugly clutter in your engine compartment.
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Well, the computer knows when it activates the EGR, and when it activates it, it leans out the a/f mix. If it didn't, the car would run a bit richer because of the exhaust gas going back in. So you might get some extra pinging.
But like I say, it's a "free" emissions piece. Like you said, it doesn't come on at wide open throttle, so it's not really bothering anyone.
It pops on when you're crusing (low engine RPM, high road speed), and that's a situation where you don't need performance (if you did, you'd be stepping on the gas)!
So the "heat" thing isn't really an issue as far as hot air coming back into the throttle body, but the heat is a problem with the tube connecting the EGR to the TB. That tube heats up, which heats up the TB, which heats up the plenum, etc etc...
But like I say, it's a "free" emissions piece. Like you said, it doesn't come on at wide open throttle, so it's not really bothering anyone.
It pops on when you're crusing (low engine RPM, high road speed), and that's a situation where you don't need performance (if you did, you'd be stepping on the gas)!So the "heat" thing isn't really an issue as far as hot air coming back into the throttle body, but the heat is a problem with the tube connecting the EGR to the TB. That tube heats up, which heats up the TB, which heats up the plenum, etc etc...
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,827
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
My only beef with the EGR is all that @(^#@ crap burned soot coming into the intake!
So how can one remove the EGR... could the ECM be reprogrammed to remove the EGR from it? Or at least, so it doesn't throw an error code?
So how can one remove the EGR... could the ECM be reprogrammed to remove the EGR from it? Or at least, so it doesn't throw an error code?
Thats what I would like to know too.
I would love to remove the EGR completely when I install my Hooker Headers. They have no provision for the air pump...its coming off... or the EGR anyway.
I am wondering how the computer would respond then. And how to compensate for it.
That black crap that is caked on the intakes innards and the unnecessary heat transfer would not be a problem anymore.
Seems logical to me.
Jay
I would love to remove the EGR completely when I install my Hooker Headers. They have no provision for the air pump...its coming off... or the EGR anyway.
I am wondering how the computer would respond then. And how to compensate for it.
That black crap that is caked on the intakes innards and the unnecessary heat transfer would not be a problem anymore.
Seems logical to me.
Jay
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
I used a small hunk of tin and had mine blocked off for a while but I could notice it. something just wasnt right. even though over all it still ran good.
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From: Woodstock, GA
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Not sure on 2.8s, but I removed the EGR on my SS (LT1) and there was no code from that. If you remove the EGR solenoid, however, it will code, but a resistor takes care of that.
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