ok ive been through this whole website. i was wondering about some of the mods that are listed on here. the TPS voltage and IAC valve mods..... do these apply to a 2.8 V-6? and if so, are they really worth anything? can i get an airfoil for that engine, and if so, what exactly will it do for me, where can i get it and how much? ive heard from my college engine professor not to ever use underdrive pulleys, is that crap or are they really worth it? on that note, im in college so any mods anyone can tell me of would be of great help. im going to do the ram air mod next week (spring break, thank ***). ive had my camaro since october and just found this website about a month ago so any advise is a big damn help.

 

College engine professor?? Man, I wish they had auto tech at my college... that'd be cool. (sigh)

What TPS and IAC mods are you talking about? You mean the readjustment to stock specs?? You can't mod those parts...

No airfoil is available for our cars.. although do remember someone on here trying to fill the gaps on the sides.. anyone remember who that was?

 

yea, im at ferris state university in big rapids, michigan. i went thru 2 years of automotive service in the chrysler program. my prof said underdrive pulleys are "evil" lol. so those TPS and IAC adjustments are just resetting it to stock settings huh? would it matter that my car idles really high when its cold out. im talking it doesnt get to normal idle till its at operating temp. i push the clutch in and the rpm's go up to 1500 to 2000. if you know any way to fix that, let me know. oh and it fires right up cold, but once it gets even slightly warm, it cranks and cranks before it starts. any ideas? ive seen something about relocating a remote starting relay or something like that, could that be it?

 

My crank when warm/no start was a combo of coil, and icm.

 

Only reason for underdrive pulleys being evil that I can think of is the alternator. If you get an alternator underdrive pulley, chanes are your alternator won't turn fast enough and your battery will begin discharging to compensate. Not good! But you can run the crankshaft pulley just fine and gain maybe an ounce of power out of it through parasitic loss. If you DO want to run both the crank AND the alternator pulleys, you'll need a new alternator...some have needed high output alts, some got away with regulars I believe...I've heard both stories.


Now..TPS sensor, if the voltage is off, the car acts funny. The TPS sensor simply tells the computer what position the throttle blade is at, so the computer knows HOW open the throttle is so it can properly calculate all sorts of things such as a/f ratio, blah blah etc etc. The IAC...if the voltage output by your IAC is off, the computer acts funny. I don't know about the IAC sensor itself, I only know bout the IAC valve...which has only two operating positions, open and closed.

So it idles high until it's COMPLETELY warm? And you said it cranks and cranks before it starts when it's warmed.... Any other symptoms associated with this? Does your car bog down or is it bad on gas?

 

Auto tech would be awsome. I have a proff next year who designed the conecting rods, and Oil pump assembly for the C4, which I thought was really cool.

Any how on with the under drive pulleys. If you have a stereo, or a lot of accesories that suck power, then the under drive is a poor setup for you. However if you have base stereo, with minimal accesories, you will be fine. Its only when you kick in you 10000000W(excuse the pun) sound system with under drive pulleys you run into problems.

 

actually, a couple of us have filled in the spaces in the tb to help smooth out the air flow. used the 3M or whatever brand liquid metal. Not the jb weld stuff.