V6 Discussion and questions about the base carbureted or MPFI V6's and the rare SFI Turbo V6.

Tranny..huh?, Torque..what? ASAP

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Old Jul 8, 2003 | 02:25 PM
  #1  
Damien00677's Avatar
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From: Dubuque, IA
Car: 2006 'Nox 91 Camaro RS 91 1500 Silv
Engine: GM 3.8L, 305 SBC, 350 SBC
Transmission: Auto, auto, auto
Tranny..huh?, Torque..what? ASAP

Ok so i have my engine and tranny out and when I took them out my tranny decided to bleed through the end where the driveshaft goes, and I'm pretty sure it is almost completely out of fluid. The Torque converter also seems to have no fluid in it. My dad asked this guy at a junkyard (he was running for me to get an un-dented oil pan) and the guy said 5 qts of tranny fluid in the tq converter, and 5 in the tranny.

The problem is I think 5 qts of fluid has a larger volume than the whole torqe converter, and once its filled with the much how would I get it on the tranny w/o it dumping all over the floor again?

Tranny's a 700r4 by the way

I'm sorta tryin to get this done today too so any help at all would be great
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Old Jul 8, 2003 | 05:53 PM
  #2  
TomP's Avatar
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Yeah the fluid will definately leak outta the tailshaft if you stand the trans up on it's end, no problems there. You could replace the seal if you want, it's easier to get to when the trans is outta the car.

I just poured 1 or two quarts slowly into the snout of my torque convertor before slipping it over the input shaft. It dribbles in. You'll fill the snout up, wait 5 minutes, it should ooze in. If it's not oozing in, there's enough fluid in the TC. But 1 or two quarts should be enough. When you start the engine for the first time, let it idle a bit and shut it down; check the level of trans fluid. Keep doing that until you get to a constant level in the pan.

Make sure you engage BOTH sets of splines on the input shaft. If when you try to bolt the trans to the engine, the torque convertor is MASHED against the flywheel, you did NOT engage the TC correctly!!

When the TC is engaged properly, and the engine bellhousing and trans bellhousing are kissing each other, you should be able to slide the TC towards/away from the flywheel. It should slide easily along the input shaft for an inch or so.

It's that inch or two of movement that allowed you to spin the TC/flywheel to unscrew all of the flywheel bolts.

If the TC is mashed against the flywheel and you can't push it back towards the trans, the second set of splines isn't engaged. One turn of the key can destroy the TC, input shaft, AND transmission immediately! When you put the TC onto the trans input shaft for the first time, you'll struggle a bit, and it'll click in. That's a 99% chance that you only managed to seat the FIRST set of splines. Keep trying to get the TC in further; the second set is harder to get to.

A length of rope is handy for keeping the TC against the trans when you put it back up. Remember to use some loctite on the flywheel-to-torque-convertor bolts. I -think- I used loctite blue.
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Old Jul 8, 2003 | 08:11 PM
  #3  
Damien00677's Avatar
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From: Dubuque, IA
Car: 2006 'Nox 91 Camaro RS 91 1500 Silv
Engine: GM 3.8L, 305 SBC, 350 SBC
Transmission: Auto, auto, auto
so it should click twice right, and be able to spin when the bellhousings are mated.

and that 1 or 2 quarts is enough for the whole tranny?
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Old Jul 9, 2003 | 12:33 AM
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TomP's Avatar
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Oops should've been more clear.. sorry 'bout that! The trans itself can take from 5 to 12 (give or take) quarts, depending on if it's just a fluid change or a full teardown. 1-2 quarts will be enough for the torque convertor. If you're not rebuilding the trans, follow the fluid spec listed in your owners manual or the Haynes book before you start the engine.

But since you lost fluid from the tailshaft and torque convertor, once you get the dipstick to read "full", you'll need to start the engine for a bit, shut it off, and check the dipstick again to make sure you don't need more fluid. Gotta keep doing that until the trans level stays constant. Final check should be done with the trans heated up on a level surface. Overfilling = air bubbles in fluid (seen on dipstick) = air is getting to your clutches instead of trans fluid = burnt up clutches.

Burning clutches leave dark circle patterns on the inside of the trans pan... did you cut open your old filter? I use angle cutters to pry the filter apart. If you unfold the filter medium inside and there's large chunks of metal, start saving up $$ for a rebuild.

Hope that's more helpful!

OH and not only should the TC be able to spin when the bellhousings are mated, you should be able to slide the TC forwards/backwards along the tranny's input shaft. The TC should not be pressed hard against the flywheel. It's hard to explain but you'll know what I'm talking about when you reinstall everything. I goofed up on the second set of splines and had to lower the trans back to the ground to re-seat the TC...
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