Okay, so last Thursday, I go to the auto parts store (where my brother works, I get an employee discount) and buy all the parts I need to completly redo the drums on the back (or so I thought).

So the first problem is, they list a metric thread and a US thread. I got the US thread. So, I have all the parts. It turns out, the only parts that I don't have new are the parking brake lever inside the drum assembly, the separator thing that goes between the shoes at the top, the separator spring, and the shoe retainer (it looks like a bow tie.

So Saturday I begin. First problem is I can't remember where the automatic adjustor lever is so I can push it out of the way and back off the shoes to get the drum off. I poked around a while and found it, got the drum off. So, no problem I take all the parts off. The only thing left is the cylinder (which is rusted to hell). I try to take the fitting off the back, but it won't budge, and the fitting nut is stripping.

Turns out that the fitting needs a 12mm wrench, so the cylinder must have a metric thread. I swap the cylinders for metric ones.

On to plan B. I need a six (five) point crows foot to get it off. I go all over the place, but I can't find one. My brother finds a 12mm crows foot at another branch of the store he works at. He gets it for me, but $14 later its has a square head and is NOT six-point.

Sunday morning, plan C. I cut the brake line off at both ends and use a six-point socket. Success. So I get the new cylinder on after fighting with the spring washer that holds it on for 1/2 hour.

Now I need a new brake line. I go to the store, but they don't have preformed OE brake lines. Furthermore, they don't have premade lengths with metric threads AND spring shielding. So I spend $50 on a bubble flare forming tool and buy a standard brake line to steal the shielding from.

Not only does the flare tool not work; it breaks... on 0.028" wall tubing when it should do up to 0.04" wall tubing. So I say screw the shielding, I bend the tube and put it on. Except the fitting won't screw into the tee on the axle. Finally I get it on, put all the brake parts on (only took 1/2 hour), and purge that side.

Then I have to drop the driveshaft and finish putting on the parking brake cable. It's Sunday and it's 10:00 and I have to drive back to my apartment in the city. I can't drive my car because I didn't have time to purge the other side.

So I've ordered OE brake lines specially for a cost of $65. On Saturday I'll do the other side in 3 hours max with the proper tools. When I get my lines I'll purge the whole system and fill it with all new fluid.

And that's the story.

 

almost sounds as fudged up as my rear brakes & my "bent by me" lines. good luck on it.

 

Well, except for the lost time and a little extra cash, it's actually working out really well. The brakes (one side at least) works great and they look good too.

 

Yeah, I found the same thing out; nobody makes a pre-flared straight length of tubing with the shielding. I bent my own for my rear disc axle on the drivers side; as I turned the fitting at the caliper, I didn't know the fitting had rusted to the tube- snap! When I get that axle back in action (need a new posi), I'm getting the stainless rear axle set from Classic Tube. Where'd you get yours from? Glad to hear it's all working out okay!! Brakes are such a pain in the butt for a complete rebuild, but man, when they finally work "as new" again, it's -so- worth it!

 

I'm getting mine from a classic auto parts store called Gasoline Alley up here in Vancouver. But I believe they are being ordered from Classic Industries in California.

 

Just a little detail on the story. If anyone wants to know a really easy way to remove and install the return springs, let me know. There's a much better way to do it than pliers.