Well, i did the search on the codes in the system, however there's a problem, when you try to search for symptons of the code, you can only search things w/ up to 3 letters, so 42 doesn't quite work, i had to search for EST code, and EST probelms (etc).

My cars been having some hard starting problems recnetly, i stopped at the dealership to check some prices, came back out, and had to wait forever to get the stupid thing to fire up right, it's had problems b4 also, but never as bad as that. Today, i was trying to start it w/ my girl in the car, and it didn't want to start, gave it a little gas, and it came to life, then....the engine light stayed on, noticed that beign a prob, went back and pulled the code, got a 42. Well, now i'm trying to figure out a good way to fix the code 42, cause i've never had an experience w/ it b4. Also, a long time ago, i was having some horrible backfire issues, traced the problem down to a bad pickupcoil, replaced it, then the timing was off, had the timing set and next thing i know, it's running good (minus having bad gas). So, with everything fixed now for 3 months, i'm having trouble again, but it seems more indirect, hopefully we can get this thing fixed. Any input will be appreciated. Thanks.

 

I can ony throw out MAYBE alternator related.
You can answer how well my thoughts may be for your situation.

 

Karl,
don't really know about the alternator, it's questionable, (but i'd rather it not be) my alt. was reading about 15volts on my 60 mile drive a copule days ago, although it hasn't been replaced yet since i got my car (just hoping that it doesn't need to be). People have also said knock sensors, but i was thinking our sixers didn't have them. And given all the changes i made in the distributor of the engine, i'm kinda curious as to if it's another problem that's stuck out, or , if i somehow didn't do things quite as right as i should have b4 hand.

 

I can also throw out (I believe) alternator takes over after the car is started. But if alterntaotr weakened something and "conditions" are right.....

 

yeh,
i've gotta make that return 50 mile trip today (probalby more like 60'ish) Neway, when i put the distributor back in, i think i broke one side of the EST wire connector that connects to the base of the distributor, hopefully that's my prob, and i can just push it in and tape it down for now, but that's not 100% it, atleast i cant confirm it yet. hopefully i'll make the trip ok today, and without anyt major problems, and maybe , if i'm lucky, that'll be my prob, and it can be fixed once i get back to town.

 

A comment about those ****ing PLASTIC CONNECTIONS THAT LOVE TO BREAK ON YA!
I use some very small zip ties to keep them in place as I have cracked several connection outter housing pieces. Really sucks to, as I am unaware of a more "simple" solution.
Just like Dale and his crappy battery neg cable issue, you may have hit the problem squarely in your sight.

 

eh, the deal as it's been so far karl.
i went ahead and made sure the electircal conections were still in place, (snugged em down best i could) and they seemed to be tight prior to me messing with em, end result, drove 50 miles w/o any problems, car ran good, pulled hard, no engine codes , etc.....i'll continue looking for the culprit. Should have thought about zipties, we use em on our airplanes all the time with electrical connetors, but we use it as a failsafe, it's on prior to anything breaking. (in other words, a male and female connection are made, they're covered in a plastic shrink wrap "sounds oddly familiar" then a ziptie is placed in the middle of the tubing, and pulled snug to keep the two from moving, and if they do move, to keep them from moving to far apart to sever the connection.)