i pulled my dist. (had to pull hood off, stand on motor like someone else here). anyways, i was gonna rebuild, but the magnet?? was cracked multiple places. so im getting the A1 that dale has.....
sooo...i dont really understand what is meant when talking about centering the poles??? (as per tomp's method)
do you have to do this with a whole new dist??
also, do you have to get the timing reset with a new one?? should i try to put the rotor and body in a similar position ?? will that get me close?/
10 or 12 deg.??
thanks
sooo...i dont really understand what is meant when talking about centering the poles??? (as per tomp's method)
do you have to do this with a whole new dist??
also, do you have to get the timing reset with a new one?? should i try to put the rotor and body in a similar position ?? will that get me close?/
10 or 12 deg.??
thanks
TGO Supporter
I have no clue on the "center the pole", unless hes talking about the what I call "spikes" on the stock one, that are not on the A1
You will need to attempt to install this distrib in the same position as the last one. You WILL have to resent timing which SHOULD be at 10deg, but if your engine doesnt ping at 12, no big deal.
You will need to attempt to install this distrib in the same position as the last one. You WILL have to resent timing which SHOULD be at 10deg, but if your engine doesnt ping at 12, no big deal.
Supreme Member
I said to center the poles?
That doesn't make sense to me, either!
The "spikes" are pole pieces, and they should be an even distance from the center magnet. But that's for rebuilding a stock unit... you use a valve feeler gauge, slide it between a spike and the magnet, and physically bend the spike "in" until it wedges the valve feeler gauge between itself and the magnet.
That makes sure that the pick-up coil recieves as strong of a magnetic pulse as it can.
But like Dale said, that's only for the stock unit!
That doesn't make sense to me, either!The "spikes" are pole pieces, and they should be an even distance from the center magnet. But that's for rebuilding a stock unit... you use a valve feeler gauge, slide it between a spike and the magnet, and physically bend the spike "in" until it wedges the valve feeler gauge between itself and the magnet.
That makes sure that the pick-up coil recieves as strong of a magnetic pulse as it can.
But like Dale said, that's only for the stock unit!