V6 Discussion and questions about the base carbureted or MPFI V6's and the rare SFI Turbo V6.

sythetic or regular?

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Old Feb 14, 2005 | 04:16 PM
  #51  
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
I get mine changed every 2,000 miles on the dot
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 06:22 AM
  #52  
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From: High plains of NM
Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Why every 2000miles?
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 09:48 AM
  #53  
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
I deliver all the time, and ALSO drive 200 miles a week to my parents house back and forth, thats like 300 miles a week... I just figure that since I drive it so rough, I might as well get it changed about every 2k miles...
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 09:56 AM
  #54  
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From: Ontario
Car: IROC Z
Engine: 5.7
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i used to drive 1200kms a week when i was at the bmw deaelrship. id just use their oil pump and pump it through my engine with the drain plug out until it came out clean. put in a new filter and top it up. free oil is nice
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 10:04 AM
  #55  
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
nice... the cost of oil, and the cost of someone do it it for me( ) doesn't really matter, because I consider that as part of my costs as delivering... I know I'm killing this car, that's why I'm saving up for a 350 TPI GTA '87-'90 for under $4,000--which so far has been a fairly easy search, just haven't seen any in my area... plus I don't have $4,000 yet!
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 10:52 AM
  #56  
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I started using synthetic in a 1969 Chevelle with 130,000 miles, and a 1974 air cooled VW with about 70,000 miles. No leaks and no problems. I'm not going back to regular.

I like Mobil 1, I wish I could afford Redline, and I've started using Wal-Mart's brand of synthetic.

My Silverado gets better gas mileage with the synthetic.
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 02:00 PM
  #57  
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by ScrapMaker
I deliver all the time, and ALSO drive 200 miles a week to my parents house back and forth, thats like 300 miles a week... I just figure that since I drive it so rough, I might as well get it changed about every 2k miles...
Makes sense... the "severe service" that GM talks about really isn't all that severe when you look at it. Maybe 20 years ago, GM's description was accurate... but now, their "severe service" situation is really our normal "daily driving" situations! (Stuck in traffic, high speeds, etc)
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 02:31 PM
  #58  
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
yup, $20 every month is a fee I can live with... to prolong the life of my relatively new motor.
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 03:18 PM
  #59  
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From: New York
Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 3.1 V6
Transmission: TH-700-R4
Besides K&N,whats a good oil filter to use?

Mobil 1?
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 03:29 PM
  #60  
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
I like my firestone filters! because I don't have to put them on... mostly... I seriously doubt that it matters what filter you use, as long as its meant for your oil type.
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 03:35 PM
  #61  
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Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 3.1 V6
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ughhhh...I hate those freggin guys at firestone.
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 05:17 PM
  #62  
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
I was only doing it because I was getting a discout by using my dad's firestone card, plus I always forget to pay him back.. so its convenient.
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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 10:00 AM
  #63  
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Car: 1991 Firebird
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sounds convient to me too although everytime i take my bird in to get looked at or something else they always tell me it is going to leave me on the side of the road in a month, last time i heard that it was this time last year actually and i'm still driving around


i use the k&n filter for a couple reasons
in itself it recomends every 5k for a change
but i still try to do it every 3k but its nice to know if money is tight i can go another couple miles
another is after the first change with using them i noticed my oil was infact a little cleaner than with a couple other brands
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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 08:50 PM
  #64  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Thing is, the more often you can afford to change oil, the better.

Syn oil are suppose to last 2-3 times longer or you can go that much longer with out oil changes but I like to just change it more often with dino oil. I do it just about every chance I get, or long as I have the funds.

And with Walmart close by,
I can do an oil change any time I want for $12.

Matter of fact, i got some oil but forget the larger oil filter number. Gotta get me one tonight.

PF52 or UPF52


I probably don't put more then 3500 mils a summer on my motorcycle but I still change it 3 times a riding season.

Problem with dino oil is when people never change it and just add. My Dad is like that. His cars get 20,000 miles a year and maybe 1 oil / filter change. The rest of the year, he just adds oil. He don't care as they always run fine. By time there is any problems. he is done with the car.

Dino is fine, just change it more often.
Very affordable with wally world.

I got some good 20/50 oil, a frame sure grip filter, large bottle of mystery oil and an air freshener for under $15. Done deal.
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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 10:37 PM
  #65  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
The PH3980 is the fram sure grip version of the larger filter.

http://cpgcatalog.honeywell.com/cpg/.../xref_fram.jsp
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Old Feb 18, 2005 | 09:32 AM
  #66  
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
does the larger filter really do much for your car?

plus... I wish I knew your secret to easily jacking up your car... I almost want to build 4 tall, sturdy ramps that I can drive my car up onto... cuz the ones from autozone that are plastic, scrape my car to pieces

the only jack I can easily get under my car is the scissor jack in the tire well... and it's almost fallen over several times... I usually use it to lift the car to put a real jack underneath

I wish I had a lift. but they are like $2,000 for a cheap good one
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Old Feb 18, 2005 | 10:36 AM
  #67  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
larger filter = more cleaning + little extra oil in the system.
Sure can't hurt. Also the same price as the small filter.

I use a cheap small $20 floor jack with no problems. I carry one all the time. Though most times for an oil change. Ill drive it up on just 1 car ramp. Get the left side up hi to get at the filter, Just happens to help the oil drain out better form the drain hole location.

Then I refill the system with what It should need. Get the car off the ramp and then recheck everything.
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 09:07 PM
  #68  
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From: Caldwell,ID
Car: 2005 BMW 545i
Engine: 4.4L N62B44
Transmission: 6spd auto
Axle/Gears: Rotating
Originally posted by Gumby
Ahh but what do you do more.
Start your car or drive at 3000+ RPM???

That start up wear stuff is kinda of just life, its gonna happen either way to an extent.

I rather get a little start up wear, and know my parts have the cushion they need doin full RPM runs.

Course I have had my car for only 6 year with over 2k miles and it run strong as day 1, probably even better with my air flow mods. I don't worry.



"Ill gladly put up with some start up wear, knowing I'm safer when I'm beating on it."

here is a question though
which one eats engine life more?


I would think start up being cold thick oil trying to get to places where oil mostly isn't there :-)
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 09:32 PM
  #69  
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From: Caldwell,ID
Car: 2005 BMW 545i
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Originally posted by ScrapMaker
I like my firestone filters! because I don't have to put them on... mostly... I seriously doubt that it matters what filter you use, as long as its meant for your oil type.
actually there is a nice little difference between oil filters. some of them like to use a little cardboard cap with just some little glue in there... next thing you have glue chunks and filter floating around
also type of media is used for filtering, how much surface area it has, how fine the filtering media is, all that and more can affect how good the filter is
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 10:09 PM
  #70  
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
I wish I could drive up onto a ramp... it would have to be like 10 feet long for me to drive up on it...
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 10:33 PM
  #71  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Originally posted by ScrapMaker
I wish I could drive up onto a ramp... it would have to be like 10 feet long for me to drive up on it...
Ya have it lowered??? stock ride hight should go up on a ramp.
Tire size can do it too.

I got some cheap $20, yellow steel ramps. Goes right on up.

Though I first place the ramp right in front of the tires. Yak now, jam them under it first. so soon as you move forward, the car is moving up..
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 10:38 PM
  #72  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Though when I want to use a real jack. My 90ton SUV jack. I gotta use my cheap $20 one to get it up high enough. Like when you need to get the car up on some decent size jack stands / 3 feet off the ground. a mini floor jack wont even come close.

I just don't like stock jacks and feel safer with it when changing tires or doing small service.
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 10:41 PM
  #73  
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
I have those hard plastic ramps from advance auto... and I can't get them under the car at all to start driving on up...

my car should be stock ride height, but I'm starting to think it's not for whatever reason that may be. I think I have about 4-4.5 inches of clearance from the ground to the gfx...
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Old Feb 20, 2005 | 12:27 AM
  #74  
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Well, check that... as of today I've got 279,000 miles (not 278,000) on my motor!

And just like what rx7speed said about filter quality, that's why I only use AC filters or Purolator filters. I used to use Fram until I found out about their crappy quality. Do a search for "fram filter" and you'll find a link to the comparison someone did (they cut open different oil filters to report on what they saw).

82-87's were spec'd for PF47, 88-92 were spec'd with PF52. So it's perfectly fine to use the larger PF52; like Gumby said, it's the same price, so why not! You just need an extra 1/2 quart of oil, so pour that 1/2 quart right into the filter before ya spin it on.

And yikes, I'd never use the spare tire jack to lift a car. It's just meant to lift ONE TIRE off the ground!! Until I lowered my car an inch, I was able to drive up with steel ramps; now the ramp hits the fender before I even start driving up on 'em. I block the back wheels with chocks, then jack the car up by the crossmember, and then put jackstands on the inner corner of the front LCA spring pockets. Then I make sure the car is sturdy before I get underneath, because I sure as hell ain't goin' out like that!!
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Old Feb 20, 2005 | 01:01 AM
  #75  
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From: hamilton nj
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 bored .030 carbed
Transmission: t5
Axle/Gears: 3.08
i hear frams are junk... i just stick to the AC delco's, they are also a few bucks cheaper. and basically any dino oil is the same, OIL IS OIL. i just use the cheap valucraft 10W30 with a ac delco filter costs me about 10 bucks for a change, i also perfer to change every 2000 miles in the 355 on a fresh rebuild, my 305 i used 20w50 because it was hot out, had 150k miles, and had leaky valves. i perfer a thicker oil in the summer, and a thinner when its cold. the lower vescosity oil is easier to throw around the motor in the cold. and oil thins as it heats up so i use a thicker oil in the summer.
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Old Feb 20, 2005 | 08:14 AM
  #76  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
I don't know. I have yet to have a problem using fram filters.
Though 99% of the reason I grab them is for the sure grip stuff.
I never have to do the screw driver through the oil filter trick.
They come right off every time.

Box says change it every 3000 miles so I am sure they are good for that long atleast. People who had problems might of went to long. I'm sure after 3000 miles results will vary.

Its also the official filter of the NHRA so It has to be good
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Old Feb 20, 2005 | 09:19 AM
  #77  
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From: hamilton nj
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 bored .030 carbed
Transmission: t5
Axle/Gears: 3.08
yea i dont see how a filter can be bad... lol i wonder if any one ever tested and compared filters?? so NHRA uses them... that changes my mind completly
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Old Feb 20, 2005 | 09:45 AM
  #78  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Well people have cut open filter to judge them. and fram is suppose to be card board liners that can blow out or something. But I just have faith that its good enough for the 3000 miles it rated for and it not like I have a high pressure oil system on a racing motor.

Its really the best $4 spent. How they come off so nice.
Though I did use to buy lots of those $10 mobile one synthetic filters. Id buy those probably if they were on the wally world shelf. Though my system is pretty clean.
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Old Feb 20, 2005 | 04:04 PM
  #79  
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IIRC, bobistheoilguy.com has a comparison of oils and filters. You might want to check it out.
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Old Feb 20, 2005 | 06:17 PM
  #80  
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From: Ontario
Car: IROC Z
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700R4
so the larger filter for 87-92 cars will fit my 85?
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Old Feb 20, 2005 | 08:54 PM
  #81  
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
so if I already have the correct filter on my 90, does that mean that there is no larger filter I could be using...?
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Old Feb 20, 2005 | 11:41 PM
  #82  
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From: hamilton nj
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 bored .030 carbed
Transmission: t5
Axle/Gears: 3.08
i think any sbc filter will fit. try bigger one if u wanna
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Old Feb 21, 2005 | 09:02 AM
  #83  
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From: Miami, FL
Car: 1988 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: Borg Warner 9-Bolt, with 3.42 Gears
I use regular now only.
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Old Feb 21, 2005 | 12:33 PM
  #84  
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From: New York
Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 3.1 V6
Transmission: TH-700-R4
Anyone see the Mobil commerical?

They now make motor oil with 5000,7500 and 15,000! mile intervals
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Old Feb 21, 2005 | 01:13 PM
  #85  
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From: Northern part of The Netherlands
Car: '88 Firebird Formula 350
Engine: 350 (5.7 TPI)
Transmission: auto 700R4
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt L.S.
ACDelco Ultraguard Gold UPF 1218 Premium Oil Filter.
Available at PEP Boys or at any GM dealer part #: 25322841.
Will fit all third gen's!!
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Old Feb 21, 2005 | 01:16 PM
  #86  
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
i wouldn not trust a 15,000 mile oil i know the dealer ship on our new nissan would bitch at us they tried to say that our mobil 1 filter was causing enigne problems and was draining all the oil out causing a dry start. Then he got back in turned it on and wow it was rod knock. Thank *** for our warranty. But once they said a mobil 1 filter would voil our warranty talk about B/S
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Old Feb 23, 2005 | 08:38 AM
  #87  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Though I already hinted at it....

I run mystery oil through my car often so..........

Its an upper cylinder, valve lube. I run it pretty heavy and the car loves it. good 3/4 of a 32oz bottle to 8-10 gal's
Also good for good fuel pump life.

I fear no start up wear.
-----------

Someone was just saying in another forum that amsoil has a fleet product you never change. Just change the filter and top off deal. It never wears out and the filter collects all the dirt. Ya just need topped off after the filter change.
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Old Feb 23, 2005 | 02:08 PM
  #88  
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
MMO RULZ!!!
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Old Feb 24, 2005 | 09:32 AM
  #89  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Originally posted by ScrapMaker
I wish I could drive up onto a ramp... it would have to be like 10 feet long for me to drive up on it...

[YIKES, note to self.
soon as its warmer I gotta powder coat them rims. New paint is 6 months old, side markers still painted over. Have yet to check them out in the dark, to see if its cool or lame.]
Attached Thumbnails sythetic or regular?-e-ramp1.jpg  

Last edited by Gumby; Feb 24, 2005 at 11:05 AM.
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Old Feb 24, 2005 | 09:36 AM
  #90  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Originally posted by ScrapMaker
I wish I could drive up onto a ramp... it would have to be like 10 feet long for me to drive up on it...
My tires are a tad smaller then stock. But I got plenty of room.
My nose tapers so not much to hardly any of the ramp, is under it. Doesn't even come close to my front air dam pieces.
Attached Thumbnails sythetic or regular?-e-ramp2.jpg  
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Old Feb 24, 2005 | 01:30 PM
  #91  
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
do you like those fog lights? I think I've seen those at autozone
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Old Feb 24, 2005 | 01:54 PM
  #92  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Originally posted by ScrapMaker
do you like those fog lights? I think I've seen those at autozone
Yep, you can tell once you get out of city lights. You can really see the whole road but its not glaring like some lights.

Though the run so hot, they burn up often. Bulb blows and socket fries. Bulbs n socket are like $5 each. need changed every 6-8 months. They just get so warm and are sealed. Case and screw corrode and never come out right. Big PITA in the end but good lighting. They are unhooked right now. Still got two good bulbs so Ill run em.

I got em for cheap. Were like $60 at autozone, biglots next door had em for $20 but with all the blubs I have bought..... They still got me.

Though still nice lights. low profile, no curb problems. Not smashing them every time I go up a drive way. Done that on several cars.
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Old Feb 24, 2005 | 02:14 PM
  #93  
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
I have the built-in fogs, I wonder if it would be worth it to use the style you have there... because even with 100 watt bulbs I can hardly notice their on... unless the headlamps are off
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Old Feb 24, 2005 | 02:44 PM
  #94  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Oh yea, them lights or say that newer design with the focus lenses and that wacky color. They just work well. And are like 55watts

On a dark road, I can see a good 6+ feet past each side of the road. Everything is illuminated. Its like a real bright but soft light that goes everywhere. And you still have your stock flash light beams.
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Old Feb 24, 2005 | 03:27 PM
  #95  
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
I can't figure out why our stock fogs are worthless? other cars can drive with their HL's off... it boggles my mind

I wish there was a good replacement bracket/casing/lense/bulb that would look good in the stock fog location... and actually brighten up the road

I'm seriously considering getting those cheap hid's off ebay and putting them in my stock h3 location... that outta do the trick.
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Old Feb 25, 2005 | 12:29 PM
  #96  
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Likes: 6
From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Light design has changed allot in 20 years. Why most new cars look to have their bright on all the time but flash em. And your blind for the next 3 miles.
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Old Feb 25, 2005 | 05:23 PM
  #97  
ScrapMaker's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,281
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
well the same h3 bulbs in other cars are their actual headlights... so I guess its our reflectors and just general aiming of the lamp?
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Old Feb 25, 2005 | 10:50 PM
  #98  
Gumby's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 8,113
Likes: 6
From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
The reflector would be the key part. Our cars still use the flash light type reflector. Where the bulb is visible with a mirror background. Them lights I got, there is a blocking plate right in front of the bulb. The light comes from the mirror finish in back. Not the bulb. I actually took it out once to see if it was brighter.
It was brighter but I saw less.

The reflector & kind is the key.
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Old Feb 26, 2005 | 07:32 AM
  #99  
oil pan 4's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,040
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From: High plains of NM
Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
With my V6 and it's NAPA lights I can see further at night in that car at night than any other car I can rember driving.
My Z28 is the same way, the lights are just aimed good I think.
Just stock replacement bulbs, nothing extra.
Lights on new cars **** me off.
I think the new cold arc lights or what ever they are, over here sear my retina. I want to smash them all. I serously feel pain in the back of my eye when those new stupid cars roll by me at night off base.
All the americans on base drive old *** cars and don't have em.
Just wait, you will get them over there if you don't all ready have them.
It is to the point where "I ware my sunglasses at night", I like that song .
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Old Feb 26, 2005 | 09:22 AM
  #100  
Gumby's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 8,113
Likes: 6
From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Ahhhh I forgot something.

Magnets. I got them everywhere. Oil pan, filter, fuel filter, rear end, tranny pan if I had one. Dropped one in my wagon gas tank when it was down.
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