CODE 34, I know its something to do with the MAF sensor but I am not getting the code all the time. I get it every couple of days, but then I turn the ignition off restart and the code goes away. Is it time to replace it or can I remedy the situation?

My other questions aren’t as important as the first problem, but I just wanted some feedback on them.

My next problem is with acceleration. My car used to run like crap, so I started taking better care of it. I preformed Tom P's tune up, 13 degree timing, gutted air box, k and n, cleaned the throttle body, TB bypass, cleaned and adjusted IAC, adjusted TPS, injectors serviced, headers, new cat, dynomax catback, with a flowmaster muffler, oil change every 2000, transmission flushes, rear lube change, new tires and springs. The car runs so much better. So my question is, why is it when I nail the gas it revs up really nice, car sounds great.......then it loses power right when I’m trying to impress the girl driving next to me. The car launch good then at the top end it stutters and scares the hell out of me so I back off. Mind you this is a new issue for me, so I’m blaming this behavior on my MAF, any thoughts.

Why does my car run better in the cold weather, once it warms up I feel like I lose power? Is it because my oil is less viscous at colder temps?

Does anybody else with a v6 use a Sonnex TV spring? I ran with one for a month or so, then took it off to get inspected, then I lost the spring. The results from this spring are amazing, the shifts feel firmer and it accelerates better at low end. Can this spring hurt my car? (FYI, I had to trim the spring because at full length first gear shifts at 5000 rpm!!!!!!)

 

i have a similar problem. i have a MAF code, and an EGR code (possible EGR code)

 

I haven't had an egr code yet, but i worried about it. It looks like hell (rusted), and its older than my brother. I was gonna replace it but my mechanic friend said "don't fix what ain't broked" i think he ment broken, but i got the idea.

 

Yep stock op temp for the 60*s is way to high.
Over 200F ya start to lose power n response quick.

I did several cooling mods to mine to keep the temp at 185-190 constant so the engine runs crisp n strong all the time.

true cold air / ram air [ air that comes directly from out side the car.]

home made aluminum air dam [same size as stock, just aluminum]

removed the AC rad n other junk


Now it doesn't even need a fan. Doesn't need to run unless I sit still for several mins. Normal stop n go traffic is no problem. Only in them 20 min drive thru lines I kick it on or long bank trips. But I ony need it like maybe 30-45 mins a yr. Save power for my amp too.

 

Could definately be the MAF throwing things off. If it's throwing a code every now and then, check the wires going to the sensor. I had it once where a wire was bad in the harness, and another time, the connector itself (on the harness) was corroded! Try the wiggle test- with the engine running and wheels blocked, wiggle the wires (and keep your fingers/clothing/hair/jewelry/etc away from the pulleys/belt/fan!)- if the engine stumbles and throws the service engine light, then the connector or wires are bad.

Here's some ways used to check for a bad MAF that isn't throwing a code (that can happen, too!)-

With the engine running, tap on the MAF housing with a screwdriver. if the engine stumbles, the MAF is bad.

Engine off, remove the MAF. Look carefully at the orange frequency film in the middle of the MAF tube (don't touch it though). That film must be completely FLAT, no wrinkles or bends or curls. If it's not completely flat, the sensor needs to be replaced.

And of course if the circuit board inside the MAF looks melted, replace the MAF

Is Sonnex a new company? What's this TV spring do? I keep my TV cable adjusted per spec, but have a B&M shift kit, B&M trans cooler, remote filter, B&M Megashifter, and B&M 4-3 kickdown TV sleeve. I actually wish that I put the TransGo shift kit in instead- and I will, when I rebuild this transmission (but i have to rebuild the car first)...

 

I tried the tap test at operating temps and it didn't stumble. I'm in the process of installing all new relays and cleaning their associated plugs.

There was recently a tread in the transmission board, the tread raved about the spring, something about line pressure?

Here's the link https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...73-sonnax.html

 

Cool, thanks for the link, I'll check it out!