$150 for the heads only is a lot (you still need the manifols, valve covers, pushrod etc, etc. Last person who I knew went to a JY to buy the parts ended up spending $700 after all said and done. Aluminum heads at least have to be checked for flat and while in the machine shop should be leak-tested.

Since you are using a 3.4, you can use a 3500 top, and use the RWD pistons (if not boosting) and have 11.5:1 SCR. All my parts come with a 3yr waranty and are completely remanufactured. A 3500 setup starts at $500 with no TB. And have less then 40k on them when I start on them.

 

Where did you get the 3500 top end? Do they flow enough that port and polishing wouldnt be necessary? $500 is for the heads, and intake manifold? If i was to eventually add boost, i would need to use the fwd pistons correct? If im not going to then the stock Rwd pistons will be good?

 

Correct. That is the heads, intake manifolds, valve covers, rockers etc. All checked, cleaned and brought back to tolerance. They flow almost 220CFM, and don't NEED a port job, but if you want to it certainly doesn't hurt. For a fee the yellow spring upgrade can be done since the heads will already be dissasembled.

What are you going to do for tune? 11.5:1 will run on pump gas, but you need to retard the timing (and should tune with the swap anyways).

I'll even throw in the 3500 injectors and 3400 fuel rail if you get it(I have a few laying around).

 

Actually the manifolds can benefit from a port job.

Also pushrods are $50 more (new) becuase the Gen3's prods don't work with the flat tappet cam.

 

Im gonna want it to run on pump gas. Where do i get this package?

 

From my shop

I happen to have a setup right now that the buyer never came through on (or is just taking forever).

 

Oh ok, well how much do you want for it?

 

Like I said $500 for the top end and $50 more if you want me to throw the pushrods in. This is what I do at the shop most of the time (when we don't have machining jobs going on).

I can start sending out parts by the end of the week (you are responsible for shipping charges). Where are you located? If you want to PM me your zip code, I can get you some shipping estimates tonight.

I buy 3500 and 3400's from wrecked cars and part them out or sell them complete (here's the top end I'll be selling to you)...


(click to enlarge pics)



^^ the one on the stand in the background


This one has 32k miles, and at first the buyer was going to buy only the top end and now says he wants the whole engine, but I'll get another when he is finally ready (been sitting for almost a month).

I accept PayPal (perferred).
----------
Here's one I just sold...

http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t...firebird/3500/

Some parts after refurbishing...


(click to enlarge)

They get media blasted and the gasket surfaces get lapped.

 

I will def consider it, thanks. I will see what my parents say, cause im in college right now. It may be a while before i can get the money, so if my parents say no or something i will get ahold of you when i get it and maybe you will still have a set. Thanks

 

No problem. I always have parts moving through the shop, just ask and if I don't have it, they will be comming soon

I would LOVE to see another 3rdgen fbod with mods like this.

 

What kinda of work are there to put FWD heads on a RWD motor??? Just read a lot about it not sure what is to it.

 

Just to make sure it's not overlooked, you need custom length pushrods for the hybrids.

The genII pushrods are not quite the correct length, when it comes to using the roller fulcrum rockers of the 1996+ genIII top end.

 

You should read again (first paragraph) p.s. I never said it was always a must just easier to change heads that will clear the valves. Thats only if you read what I've been saying. You also forgot changing the crank can also change stroke.

 

Same price I quoted in the other thread

 

Here's the first paragraph:



No where is stroke mentioned.

I really don't know what it is you're trying to say here. The only possible change in piston to valve clearance is if the cam has a very long duration, and the stroke is increased by a huge amount, that would cause the TDC dwell time to be longer, but changing rod length has the same effect, or shortens that dwell time depending on how the length is changed.

Again look at the example of the 2.8L and the 3.1L in the GM 660 engine family, the engine family this very forum is dedicated to (mostly). The only difference between the two is stroke. 2.99" for the 2.8L and 3.31" for the 3.1L, there was a subsiquant change in compression distance so that the piston absolute top distance stayed the same between the two engines, (other wise the piston would come proud of the block) heads were the same, cam, valves, etc, and there were no piston to valve clearance issues there.