my cars bees stalling a lot latly code 34 so i got a new MAF nuthing but i noticed that it will only stall when hot and is is less lickley to stall if the car is in neutral and i also noticed that the harder i press on the break the more eratic the idle intill it stalls eny suggestions?

 

Yeah, it sounds like an IAC problem. First and foremost, pull the IAC valve and clean the pintle assembly with a toothbrush and carb cleaner. Then clean the iac passages in the throttle body till they're spotless. Hold the throttle valve open and clean the back side of the throttle blade, and the throttle body behind the blade. This is regular maintenance for EFI cars. In stock form the EGR system recirculates exhaust into the intake and eventually you'll get a residue on everything. When it gets really bad the pintle can't move freely and the passages get gooped up and the IAC can't get enough air into the engine to keep it from dying.

 

Actually sounds like a brkae booster gone bad. if you can step on the brake and cause erratic idling, then it's causing a vacuum leak that is affecting engine performance.

 

ill look at the IAC tommrow
and i dont think its the break booster it only stalls when in drive or reverse if i pop it into neutral when i stop it doesent stall

 

ah the good ole code 34, mine was solved believe it or not by removing the MAF connector removing the back plate on the connector pulling up and out on all three wires crimping them closer together with a pair of plyers, or if you have the 15 bucks go buy a new MAF connector soldier the new wires up hot glue the piece for water proof protection and wallaaaaaaaaa for my problem you could try that just throwing my senses in this, had the same trouble at first, fixed the MAF and realized i got a front leaking hose as we'll i believe currently working on that problem.

 

ill give it a try hopfully it works but do you know if the car is running and i unplug the MAF shold the car keep running? when i unplug mine it keeps on going al it relly does is put the ses light on

 

I've never heard of a break booster ever failing in one of these cars.

Try disconnecting your TCC solenoid. There are two wiring plugs on your transmission. One on the tailshaft for the speedometer, and the other on the side of housing above the pan for the TCC solenoid. Disconnect it and see if the problem goes away. If it does get a new solenoid at the parts store and swap it in. If you leave it disconnected and continue driving the car, your gas mileage will go to hell, and eventually you'll burn up the converter and/or the transmission. And, they go out ALL THE TIME. Very common failure, that will cause the problem you're describing.
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Oh yeah, the symptoms in the other thread you created... Same thing. It could potentially be the switch on the brake pedal too, since it trips the TCC solenoid.

 

got eny pics of this thing man ill be glad if its fixed thanks

 

No pics sorry. Just jack up the car, put it on stands and look at the transmission. You can't miss the TCC plug.

 

ok thanks ill do it later just got off work man i hate third shift ill let ya know

 

ok well i changed the TCC today no change still the same i orderd the stop light switch it will be in tommrow ill let ya know what happens

 

well stop light switch dident hlp still stalls and slill sluggish off the line
dont know what it could be here is what i have changed out
MAF
fuel filter
plugs
wires
cap & roter
transmition filter
TCC
coil
ingition moduel
PCV
thats all i can think of off the top of my head

 

What part of troubleshooting the problem, didn't you understand? Throwing parts at a problem does nothing except drain your wallet and support the local autoparts store.

 

most of the things i have replaced were routeen mainenence
i just listed them to weed out eny posebilitys fore some one who could help me

 

i had the same exact problem if your going to throw money at it buy the 15 buck MAF connector and replace that splice the wires, soldier them after connecting them and even throw some hot glue over them for weatherproofing or shrink wrap it, that should do it, since you've tried so many other things unless its a vacuum leak, i had to really tweak with my MAF connector and finally got it correct and it hasn't ****ed up in what 3 weeks so far

 

Read this whole thing and well, in my head I keep wanting to say Vacuum leak as well. Get an eye dropper and a marker that reacts to UV light. Open the marker and get the fluid out of the dropper and squeeze it into a vacuum line, (not a whole lot) and get a black light (home depot) and an extension cord, plug it in and see where it glows lol. Hey if thats not the problem at least you'll know if you have any vacuum leaks to fix.

 

ok so it could be a vac leak ill look into testing it what about EGR its been stalling when i take my foot off the gas but only if its at low RPMs also if i sitwith the car in park and press the gas and hold a steady lets say 3000 RPMs and then let off is stalls
thanks

 

Not sure if this would cause it but make sure you put the fuel filter on the right way... and clean the throttle body reall good, just my . Hope you figure out the problem soon I hate not knowing what wrong with my car drives me crazy

 

ok well now i feel like a retard but i think i solved my problem looking over the car today i noticed that there was a small crack in the air intake tube right past the MAF and i guess it opens up sometimes and stalls out thew car going to work now and well see if that was it thanks for all the help