Raz

I tryed to give it a go first, but it wouldn't come off. I un-screwed the bolts ontop of the manifold and i dont see anymore to take off, i took off around 10 bolts help?

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Probably just stuck from years of use.

Raz

got any ideas? I tryed reving the engine up to try to push it off but all that did was shoot my rpm up like hell

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

You can use a piece of wood or something soft to pry under the TB, be careful not to break any of the brittle plastic.

project89

iTrader: (1)

whoa take a step back form the car for just a min.get urelf a flat blade screw driver, or a putty knife,and gently tap it inbetween the uper and middle section of the intake,then gently pry it up.be carful not to gouge up the flanges were the gasket sits.

i really hate to ask but why are u pulling the i ntake manifold off

Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

its stuck on their cos of the gasket **** take a screwdriver and pry it off

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I didn't want to suggest prying it with metal tothe inexperienced.

cooltc2004

iTrader: (4)

wow

All you need to do is take out all of the bolts and pry (GENTLY).

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

I dont really understand what you tried to do. Took the bolts out, started the car, and reved it to try to remove the UIM? That just sounds like a terrible idea...and possibly a good way to blow your engine to hell.

Also why are you removing the upper manifold?

Like people said, all you need to do is pry the UIM from the MIM. Its probably just stuck to the gasket from years of being bolted down.

I would also advise you to buy a Haynes and a Chiltons manual, read it front to back, and study up on whatever task you are about to do. Dont just dive in without looking into what you are doing.

Spitzfiya

LOL...whoa

Yeah dude keep prying at er..with a screwdriver

Raz

thanks guys, now my car wont start and i just killed my batterie from trying to start it

****

maybe there is bolts underneath? it wont ****ing open ill try the putty knife idea. I'm trying to learn about my car and the best way to do so is to experiment. I was also gonna clean it out. I see it cost 700$ to put this **** back on so ahh!

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

10 bolts hold the upper part of your manifold to the middle part.
Also the best way to learn about your car is to research it...not destroy it. You can do a lot of damage to your engine by just "winging it".
And if you wanted to clean out your intake you could have just used intake cleaner or, better yet, Seafoam.

Raz

thanks. im hoping my car wont start cus of the battery and not my own destruction tommaro ill jump start it since my headlights wont even go down

if anyone gets any ideas keep postin em'! i tryed the flathead screwdriver and it didn't work then i tried to use leverage on the top of the manifold and got nowhere but a bent flathead

project89

iTrader: (1)

lolz i know why he cant get it off prolly, try unbolting the throttle body from the intake. its 2 13 or 15mm bolts.

10$'s says he has the tb coolant hoses hooked up

Raz

lol yeah i only un-hooked the throttle 3 and one wire plug.

i didnt want to take the throttle body of because i dont have those star tools but looks like i have to

project89

iTrader: (1)

u do not to remove any of those to take off the tb, on the front of the tb is 2 regualar bolts those are the ones u remove, do not remove the torx screwes on the top

Raz

alright I wont take those off. but i think i did already take those 2 bolts off. They were to the left of the throttle body with one infront of this bendable hose and one behind the hose I think I used a 10mm to take those off and 1/2 socket for the manifold bolts

project89

iTrader: (1)

nope that was the egr hose, dont break that hose u cannot get a replacemnt hose. stand infront of the car in the middle and look at the throttle body there are 2 bolts on the front of it, those are the 2 u want to take off

fictmich

Since nobody else has mentioned this... Did you take off the bolt to the right of the throttle body holding the bracket for the kickdown cable to the upper intake?

Raz

Yeah I'm pretty sure it was the last bolt i took off, it was connected to the belt gaurd

fictmich

How about a picture/s of where you are currently that may help us see what's holding you up?

Raz

alright ill get one tommaro thanks everyone!

someone also gave me the idea to tap it with a hammer

fictmich

Rubber faced one or else you'll break the intake. It'd be a better idea to just get those pics and post them up first and wait for a verdict.

Raz

right on. do you know if i hurt my car by doing this... cus my battery died like instantly

fictmich

Hard to say what's going on without more info like being able to see it or knowing exactly what it's doing when you say it won't start. You shouldn't be killing your battery by pulling the upper intake off, I've never had that problem doing mine.

Raz

well the first syntoms were after i turned the car off from reving it I started it up and turned it off. then i went to start agian and it wouldn't click over all the way so i think that drained my battery

fictmich

Well if it's not cranking over fast enough then I agree it sounds like it's your battery.

Tookie

I bet you've got a loose connection at the battery post, batteries
don't drain instantly

92camarorv6

wow did any one think of just taping the pm with your hand or a ruber malit omg i now i ask stuped stuff but thats my way of tasting some times and the teh hans book stay away from it gm srevis books are your friend 120 book if i can git tham will be for sell and custom pms

88RS19

Did you hook the battery up backward?? You know, the negative lead to the positive terminal on the battery and the positive lead on the negative terminal on the battery. I have done this twice already on my truck b/c I wasn't paying attention and fried the battery both times. If you did, the last lead that you put on should have arced. Not sure if it's the case, but I know from experience that it does happen. And if this is the case, you may have also fried the diodes in your alternator but those can be changed for like $5-$10. But if you don't know what you are doing, then i would suggest having someone who knows what they are doing to change the diodes for you or just buy a new alternator out-right.

Just an idea.

Raz

Ok guys I got it off thanks to everyone's help! However my right side of the gasket plastic peice was cracked on both ends. idk if it's been like that or not but i hope it's not expensive.

THANKS!


and this was the main problem below

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

I assume you are saying to stay away from the Haynes manual and to just get a GM one? I would have to disagree to stay away from the Haynes. Not everyone has the money to drop on a book that is over $120.
And Haynes and Chiltons are very good books to have. Case in point...I removed my entire engine/tranny by myself with just a Haynes and Chiltons. Before that point I had changed spark plugs...thats about it. So how were that a bad asset to have?

LINK <--- All that with just my 2 hands, a Chiltons, a Haynes, and a lot of choice words.

fictmich

Good to hear you figured it out.

As for the manuals... Chiltons and Haynes are good for the majority of the work you'll see. However should you choose to invest in the dealer manual they can be had for fairly cheap. I picked mine up for $50 on ebay and routinely see them go for $60-70 at local swap meets.

Raz

yea, you guys are awsome. Nowadays people like you guys aren't easy to come by. I might have to pick one of them up.