Need torque specs
Re: Need torque specs
I can't tell you the exact sequence for torque, but you are supposed to start from the center and work your way outward in a circular pattern.
My Haynes manual says that the proper torque is 55 ft-lb first pass, then the second pass you just go an additional 1/2 turn. Apparently, the head bolts were designed to stretch by a certain amount. The 55 ft-lbs compresses the gasket and everything, and the additional 1/2 turn stretches the bolts.
I've got the heads off of my 3.1 right now. I blew a head gasket a few months ago, and I just got the heads back from the machine shop.
My Haynes manual says that the proper torque is 55 ft-lb first pass, then the second pass you just go an additional 1/2 turn. Apparently, the head bolts were designed to stretch by a certain amount. The 55 ft-lbs compresses the gasket and everything, and the additional 1/2 turn stretches the bolts.
I've got the heads off of my 3.1 right now. I blew a head gasket a few months ago, and I just got the heads back from the machine shop.
Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: Kutztown, PA
Car: Formula/RS
Engine: 5.7L/60 degree
Transmission: both 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 lsd and 3.23, respectively
Re: Need torque specs
6 2 3 7
5 1 4 8
when looking at the head from the exhaust side... that's the order for the bolts, both sides
first time you torque them to 41 ft lbs... then go back around and turn an extra 1/4 turn...
this is correct for the 60 degree GM 3.1L
check 60degreev6.com if you have any other concerns with torque settings...
5 1 4 8
when looking at the head from the exhaust side... that's the order for the bolts, both sides
first time you torque them to 41 ft lbs... then go back around and turn an extra 1/4 turn...
this is correct for the 60 degree GM 3.1L
check 60degreev6.com if you have any other concerns with torque settings...
Re: Need torque specs
Yep, he's right. I double checked my manual when I got home and it calls for 40 ft-lbs for the first pass, and then a 90 degree additional turn.
The pattern is exactly what was described...
Don't forget that you need to chase the threads out in the block with an
M11x1.5 tap, and also clean the threads on your bolts. There is supposed to be a sealant used on the threads to keep the coolant from leaking past them and being able to get into your oil. The threads in the block go all the way into the water jacket instead of being in blind holes. The sealant is supposed to be some hardening type of sealant, not just any sealant. You might want to ask someone at the parts house about it. I am sure that they have something that will do.
The pattern is exactly what was described...
Don't forget that you need to chase the threads out in the block with an
M11x1.5 tap, and also clean the threads on your bolts. There is supposed to be a sealant used on the threads to keep the coolant from leaking past them and being able to get into your oil. The threads in the block go all the way into the water jacket instead of being in blind holes. The sealant is supposed to be some hardening type of sealant, not just any sealant. You might want to ask someone at the parts house about it. I am sure that they have something that will do.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
no green
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
11
Jan 9, 2016 09:22 PM






