i know the difference is the adjustable rev limiter, and i was reading in their catalog what it does, but i don't think i quite understand it. and your opinion is the 6al worth the extra cash, and will the benifits be noticed. what do you think? which would you buy? this would finish off my ignition.

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1990 Firebird 3.1
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- Auto Trans, TA Body Kit
- Home Made C.A.I.
- ASP Underdrive Pulleys
- MSD 8.5mm Superconducter Wires (custom-cut)
- MSD GM Blaster Coil
- AC Delco Cap & Rotor
- Bosh Platinum +4 plugs
- Mobil 1 Synthetic Fluids
- 2.5" Hooker Aero-Chamber Cat-back
- 2.5" Hooker Elite Stainless Extension Tips
- GTS Blackouts (stickers removed)
- TB Bypass

KILLS = Dodge Daytona (stick), 2000 Toyota 4 Runner 4WD,
1997ish Ford Explorer, "older" Jeep Cherokee (don't ask why they are all SUVs...who the hell knows?)

LOSSES = 300zx (had him half way through 2nd, he was manual)

"The racing dice added 5hp...I SWEAR!"

 

Do you think you stand a chance of overreving your motor till it blows something? Seeing as you have a manual transmission, I doubt it.

 

no, i actually have an automatic....grrr! anyway, i guess that was part of my question. if the 6al has a rev limiter, that would basically stop the engine for red lining?? and if so, since i have an automatic do i really need that AL. i am just curious what is best for my application. or will the rev limiter help me control where the auto trans will shift?? anyone...

 

The rev limiter would be good if your tranny ever craps out while racing. My friend with a 4th gen camaro lost 4th gear while driving with the cruise on and the tranny went into neutral, the cruise went nuts and almost blew the engine. If he had a rev limiter it would have just cut the engine at the specified RPM giving him enough time to kill the cruise safely. It is a good safety feature.

Just my opinion.
Dale

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1986 FireBird
2.8L MPFI
Gutted Cat, No muffler (Sweet Sound)
Was 700-R4 --> Now T5

 

I think the 6AL is worth it... plus, you also get the anti-vibration mounts. Those sell separately for $20, and don't come with the 6-box. So that means you're getting the rev-limiter for only $20 more. (That's Summit's prices, anyway).

Plus, with the rev-limiter, you can do other cool tricks later. MSD sells 2-step and 3-step rev-limiter modules. These let you switch between RPM modules. One step is the "default"... the other one (or two) are activated by grounding a wire.

Say you have an automatic trans, and buy the two step module. When you line up to the tree at the racetrack, you could engage the second RPM limiter, and set it at, oh, I guess 2400 RPM. Now, after you stage, and before the lights drop, you hold the brake, and floor the gas pedal. The RPM limiter won't let the engine get past 2400 RPM (aka "stutter box"). As soon as the light goes green, you hit a button- the "staging" RPM limit drops away, and you're back to your "default" RPM limit of 6000. This way, you can fine-tune your launches- and probably get a better reaction time. Instead of having to move your foot from a half-throttle to a full-throttle position while releasing the brake, you just push a button and release your brake.

Want further ease? Rig up a linelock to the same button! Now, when you stage, you engage both the linelock and rev-limiter, and floor the pedal. When the lights drop, you hit the magic button, and zoom! Your brakes unlock and your engine roars free- and all you did at the tree was hit a button.



Besides that "coolness", you'd have the same launch time after time. Say your car runs bad times... if you don't want to load the convertor at 2400 RPM, try a 2200 RPM module. Still bad? Try 2600 RPM. See? You can find the exact RPM range that your engine likes the best.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

ha ha....makes perfect sense. definately seems like its worth the extra money....hmmmm, now just need to save that money

 

I need to pick up the 2 or 3 step.. I wonder if my launches are holding the car back. I don't recall ever launching the car at the same RPM! It's at least 2,000 RPM, and I don't think I've gone higher than 2800 RPM- but I have no idea. I'm too busy watching everything else to stare at my tach!

The only thing I can think of for the 3-step module is "engine high-rev", "staging", and "valet". Granted, I don't valet-park my car often (once every 3 years maybe?), but that'd be a great anti-theft, too. Who'd steal a car that didn't go over 1500 RPM? That'd make for a slow getaway!



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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

funny you say that. i was flipping through my MSD catalog looking at what the different selectors and was asking myself what i would use a third stage for. i mean the catalog says they are used on the strip for burnouts to maintain a consistent temp, but i have no real need for that. so then i was thinking to myself it would be cool to get out of the car and limit it to 1,000 then if anyone ever tried to steal they would be ****ed. that would be pretty hilarious!! but yea, i figure one for launching and one for high rev like 6,000. i like to force my car to down shift and that way if i get over zealous i won't readline...teehee. usually i will launch around 2200ish, plus its such a pain in the *** staring at the tach trying to balance the gas right at the right rpm. i don't think i launched as high as 2800 though, my tires will start to spin....but seems like a real cool toy, and would love to have the switch in the car



[This message has been edited by SAEspinz80 (edited August 08, 2001).]