90Camaro4ever

iTrader: (2)

Hey, it's been two years of running great, but I have a new unusual problem.

Two weeks ago my wife was coming back from an emmission test. 20 minutes away from the emmission station, the car just turned off. She coasted off the road, and restarted the car. She made it a few more miles and it shut off again. This happened 2 more times, but less distance was travelled before it shut off before she arrived home.

I have started the car at home, and it sounds normal and I can rev the engine when the car is cold and it seems fine. After about 10-15 minutes, the car will just turn off as though the key was turned off. Sometimes I am holding the idle at 200rpm, other times it is at idle and simly turns off.

I can hear the fuel pump run when the car shuts off for 2-3 seconds. I do not have any codes, and the car does go into closed loop mode. Rpm desired is about 700. Car always runs rich unless i am on the highway. I have 190K original miles without any engine or transmission work.

After reading the site, I am guessing I should replace the ignition module, but wanted some advice instead of just guessing.

I have a fuel gauge, but do not really know what to look for as the car just shuts down like turning off the key. There is no sputtering or surging, it's as thought the ignition system simply turns off.

One other thing I want to mention is that for 10 years or so, I can go out to the car and try to start it, and I get nothing. No crank, no codes. If I wait 30 minutes, I can put my key in and it will start. This only happens about 3 times a year, but I am not sure if this could be related now. I have not experienced this issue for atleast 6 months, and I believed this is associated with my anti-theft system (resistor key.)

Hope you can shed some light on this issue!

90Camaro4ever

iTrader: (2)

I notice a few folks reading this, but no one replied. Is this a really rare problem?

Project 3.4 Camaro

Idk about rare, but not exactly easy to solve, my guess is ICM or maybe VATS, if you take the ICM to an autozone(advanced auto might also do this, don't recall) they will test it for you.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

VATS won't shut the car off... It will just keep the car from starting in the first place.

Start with the ignition module, as stated above, and then go from there. If you did a , you would find more info .

mikesanto70

I have a 1991 RS 5.0 TBI all stock except flowmaster, and I live in Phoenix, the car never liked hot weather to begin with but Friday I was in stop and go and it was 114* out so she was gettin real hot but not in any red danger zone and then she started to sputter so I chucked it in neutral to try and keep it running and it sputtered for 10 sec. then died, It fired back up and let me drive a little more then did it again, so I made it to a parking lot, let her cool then I got on the freeway and she took me 30 miles all the way home without dying, it's gotten hot before but never did this, this is a first, I just put new plugs in her and a new cat and a new EGR a few weeks ago because of a failed emmission, turns out it was the EGR, but she was due for plugs anyway and all was fine until she got hot now she is running with a high idle now and seems to drag a little bit like a low battery on a cold start. Any intelligent suggestions anyone?

mikesanto70

Also, how do I create a new thread, to ask a question, feel so stupid cause I cant figure it out and need to ask some trouble shooting questions, please help a dummy!!!!

jaguarr2012

any up date having the same issue

XxXChrisGXxX

iTrader: (1)

I would say the ICM....I haven't had one that lasted me a year. My car was recently towed (3 days ago...because of this) randomly died going up a hill.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

If you guys would do a , you would find out that the 90-92 cars had a TSB for the wiring in the ignition system... V6 only, don't know about the V8s.

ChrisG, when you get your car back, pull off the dizzy cap and make sure the vents in the dizzy base plate are clear... They're there for a reason. Also, I have a junk 90-92 harness with the 4-pin dizzy connector if that's the one you think you need. I MAY also have the 2-pin with the coil connector attached, but I'd need to look for it. And possibly get some decent PC thermal compound (used for processor heat sinks), probably the copper stuff, and put that under the replacement module. And then get yourself a Delco module for the next time the el-cheapo burns out. I know guys that carry a spare module in the glove box so they can swap it out in less than 5 minutes rather than paying $$$ for a tow truck and then $$$ for a shop to find out it's bad...

XxXChrisGXxX

iTrader: (1)

If you have them...give them to me! I just ordered a terminal tool online not sure if it will work...

The dizzy is new...vents clear. All 3 have been AC Delco units...brand new. I wonder if arctic silver will work?

I didn't want to get towed! It was a state road...really busy...state cop said I couldn't work on my car there...lol BASTARD!

I thought it was because I was doing 95. Glad to know the car can handle 95.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I need to snip the 4-pin out of the harness and locate the other in the garage...

Any thermal compound has to be better than the crap dielectric grease most modules come with. Anything that helps with heat dissipation is better than what's currently there.