Why did you replace the tps if the old one wasn't broken?


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Just stopped messing around with the car for tonight. Decided to do a vacuum leak check one more time, sprayed carb cleaner right into the area under the throttle body near the pressure regulator. The engine rpms surged up. Is this a vacuum leak i just found?

 

And i changed the tps b/c i read that a bad one can cause throttle hesitation like i was experiencing and i had no way to test the one i had

 

It damn well could be. You sprayed it at the fuel rail? Or the line connected to the fpr? If the vacuum hose attached to the fpr is broken that could cause it. This is why I wanted you to test at the filter. Because if you got 42 at filter then we know its blockage in the lines or fpr.

For it to be a faulty fpr it's a little unlikely. Turn the key on engine off and pull the vacuum line then see if gas comes out of the fpr. If not it's ok. Start checking vacuum after that


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Ok, so after i drove home from work i pulled the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator. There was no gas coming out it was dry. I went ahead and replaced some of the vacuum hoses and fittings around my throttle body and fuel pressure regulator. The car is now idling noticably smoother and didnt hesitate at all when i went on a test drive. So i think vacuum is where my problem is. Im not going to celebrate just yet im gonna drive it for another day and see how it performs. There was one rubber vacuum line that was kind of cracked, i have yet to replace that one b/c i need to go buy the right size tubing. But overall it does seem to be running better. Ill repost tomorrow after driving to work and let you guys know if still messes up.

 

Ohhhhhhh shiz. *crosses fingers*


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Show me a picture of your car man

 

Me? Lol. My poor car had to be rescued from a terrible previous owner. She has seen better days. Lemme try to upload a pic.


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Shes a little rough






the previous owner completely murdered this car. kinda sucks but im in the VERY slow process of fixing her up. paint would be nice but im a college student with a 20 hour a week job so ;/

 

not bad, like the rims arent those firebird rims? and ive never seen a camaro with a sunroof. i rescued my car too, the woman that sold it to me was driving it with tar black oil and a radiator filled with orange sludge from corrosion. heres a pic of what it looked like before and after the paint job

 

you can get one of those chrome grills on ebay for 50 bucks

 

Damn looking goood now. I'm glad theres still people saving these cars. i'm glad I could help you get it right man. Takes some testing lol.


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Yeah i'm focusing on the engine/tranny first. I've got a rough idle when hot and my brakes turn off my pcm and the tranny shifts when it wants to. >< after I got that right then paint. Then rims (no they are american racing? Idk they say that) then after all that the grill and emblems. Wish I had a better job to speed this process lol


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UPDATE- so, the car is definitely running alot better and the idle is smoother. But i still have some hesitation on acceleration, and my idle is still at 1500 rpm. Im gonna look further into the vacuum system maybe im missing something i dont know. Someone was telling me it could be the egr. But i wanna troubleshoot the vacuum system first b/c i have a digital egr and a replacement is 80 bucks!

 

Its not egr. We have digital egr. No vacuum. (unless the egr gasket to intake is broken) ... Does your car have ac?


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when i turn on a/c it only blows through the defroster vents

 

Your heater control valve is vacuum controlled as well as your mode doors for the ac :X


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Well, there is a possibility it is the EGR, but it's doubtful since the engine runs fine at idle. The "digital" EGR valve may not be vacuum controlled, but it can still cause a vacuum leak due to bad gaskets or sticking solenoid(s). The tolerances in the digital EGR valve are REALLY tight, and the plungers can stick in the solenoids if they are dirty. Which causes EGR flow when the engine is running (which causes either a very crappy or no idle at all) and a full time vacuum leak otherwise. You can disassemble and clean the EGR, but the probability of failure is high since the screws are thin and like to snap when attempting to remove.

You should check the vacuum port on the back of the engine. I believe that the HVAC connects to the left side of the T where the brake booster connects (in the rear of the upper plenum). No vacuum signal to the control head means that the system reverts to defrost and heat as a safety issue (if the vacuum controls fail, it's kind of important to keep the windshield clear, is it not?).

Actually, it's probably a smarter idea to just remove and replace ALL of the vacuum hoses and hose ends since you keep finding more and more of them that are bad.

 

I agree. Now is there a kit or a place where you can buy all the hoses for under 100 dollars though


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That T on the back of the intake manifold where the brake booster connects, the brake booster is connected on the right side, and the left side isnt connected to anything its just plugged up. It was like that when i bought the car

 

Does the car also have cruise control? If it does, I'd be willing to bet it also doesn't work. The HVAC and the cruise are both fed off of the small port where the booster connects (believe it or not). You'll need to run a hose off of that port to hook up the HVAC if you want it to work. Next to the heater core hoses is the HVAC harness and will have 2 vacuum lines coming out of it. One is possibly still attached to the heater valve, and the other is the vacuum source you need to attach to the booster T. If you have cruise, it's not working, and you would like it to work at some point, you will need to run hose for that as well.

You can get a package of hose for around $5-10, with 6 feet of hose in the little box. Cut out a small section of your old hose to take with you (there are 2 sizes and you need both). If the parts place has no idea what you're talking about when you ask for vacuum hose, ask for windshield washer hose (it's technically the same thing and says so right on the box).

Oh, and don't forget to check the ends on the vacuum line that connects the MAP (the thing bolted to the cowl with the green plug) to the small port on the back of the plenum (to the left of the booster T when looking from the front). The line itself may be molded nylon, but the ends are also rubber...

 

GUYS! Finally found out what is causing my problem! And its stupid. My lower intake manifold gasket has a leak and needs to be replaced. And lil old me was about to be replacing fuel pumps and all kinds of bullshit. I really appreciate everyones help you guys are awesome. Now i just gotta get my a/c blowing through the vents. Maverick, my car doesnt have cruise control. What youre saying is that a hose coming from my a/c harness needs to go to that T on the intake manifold?

 

Yes, the vacuum inlet for the HVAC control head needs to be connected to the plugged port on the vacuum T. Without vacuum, the HVAC air is only going to be directed to the windshield and the floor vents because the system can't open and close the doors to direct the air elsewhere (vacuum motors).

:edit: Might as well do the whole shebang and replace ALL of the intake gaskets and the fuel injector o-rings (you're going to be halfway there if you pull off the lower plenum anyways, and I don't think you can get the lower plenum gasket without the kit). Parts are the FelPro MS93020 and whatever interchanges with the GP Sorenson 800-9220 (fuel injector o-rings, IDK why the intake gasket kit never comes with the o-rings when they're usually damaged when the fuel rail is pulled to replace the intake gaskets).

 

yeah i figured I would just buy the set that contains all the intake gaskets. didn't think to buy new o-rings for the injectors though, good call. should just be a one day job. I do know that the fuel rail will be a pain in the *** though. i've replaced an injector before.

 

Man I asked you about that intake gasket brooo! Lol


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I keep wondering just what it is that makes removing the fuel rail so hard...

1. Unplug the fuel injector harness from the engine harness (6 pin connector in the front)
2. Remove bolts from rail
3. Remove nut from damper (the silver can under the TB)
4. Remove screw from bracket holding fuel lines to engine lifting eye
5. Lift fuel rail up until injectors come out of bores
6. Swing fuel rail out of way on hoses

You should be able to pop the fuel rail out in under 2 minutes. Don't mess with the fuel lines because sooner or later the fittings in the rail are going to end up stripped.

Oh, and when you do the lower intake gaskets, you need to drain the coolant from the radiator. There are 3 parts on each gasket that say "DO NOT CUT" at the top. Make one single cut in the same place on all 3 parts of each gasket so that you can slide the gaskets behind the pushrods. Unless you just happen to like adjusting the valves.

 

removing the fuel rail isnt necessarily hard, i just remember last time i took it out i really had to pull on it and wiggle around to get it out thats what i meant.