distributor and camshaft....help!
distributor and camshaft....help!
hey everyone...i took out my 2.8 mfi from my '87 berlinetta for a rebuild.i was wondering if anyone could tell me how to go about installing a new camshaft and distributor. the distributor was pulled out without marking it's position and i don't know if it has to be put in a certain way or not...and the cam is cracked so i'm gonna get a performance one with new lifters and rocker arms. also could anyone give advice on whether or not it is worth boring a 2.8 30 over or if it's even safe for the engine? if so how much power would it add? is it worth the time and money with new pistons and ****? any advice is greatly appreciated but i'm mainly concerned with the cam and distributor.
FIND another RUNNING short/long block to slip in now. Don't waste a dime more on this current engine.
I've never seen a cracked cam.
I don't want to imagine what migrated throughout the block with a cracked cam.
I've never seen a cracked cam.
I don't want to imagine what migrated throughout the block with a cracked cam.
Last edited by CC_HotRod; Dec 22, 2001 at 09:41 AM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,461
Likes: 0
From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
lots of helpful advice there for the junior member
break out the haynes/chilton for the dstributor setup. Do a search on KED85 for the cam/rocker arm adjustment.
If you do decide to keep the engine & rebuild, go to the smallest overbore. That way if you need to rebore again in the future, you have more material to work with.
break out the haynes/chilton for the dstributor setup. Do a search on KED85 for the cam/rocker arm adjustment.
If you do decide to keep the engine & rebuild, go to the smallest overbore. That way if you need to rebore again in the future, you have more material to work with.
Last edited by CC_HotRod; Dec 22, 2001 at 09:44 AM.
Couldn't help it.
It was my response to once not being able to write the persons name, Dick Guldstrand.
But, Seriously....
Just go find a running long block. Up in Maine, should be a dime a dozen, swap it in. GO rebuild the 265 V-8 engine on an old 1955 Corvette found in an old wood barn found on the Maine Farmhouse property you just bought.
It was my response to once not being able to write the persons name, Dick Guldstrand.
But, Seriously....
Just go find a running long block. Up in Maine, should be a dime a dozen, swap it in. GO rebuild the 265 V-8 engine on an old 1955 Corvette found in an old wood barn found on the Maine Farmhouse property you just bought.
Originally posted by crewse04544
are you on crack? what does that have to do with my post?
are you on crack? what does that have to do with my post?
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What I'm saying is do not waste the time to machine this block of yours.
It's not a valuable engine like an old 265 in a 1955 Corvette. It's a common FWD 60* engine.
FOR THE COST INVOLVED, find a suitable running long block in the yrads and swap it in. Find one with the lowest milage on it.
I did this by finding a used 3.4 longblock w/40K miles on it for $800. I swapped in my engine & it cost me about $900 total.
You'll win cost for the project (a running engine).
IF ya wanna price out parts an such, look to Northern Auto Parts (800-831-0884), then double the price of the parts (for avg. machining costs). Then add length of time for machine cost work and your personal labor to remove, rebuild engine. Don't forget to add gaskets and extra parts, too.
Like I said, find a good running engine.
In Maine, they should be a dime a dozen. Body of car rust, the engine is in good shape. I have relatives in Maine, I know what the junk yard cars look like.
You said your cam is cracked. That's sounds as good for the core engine you want to rebuild as a rod thru the side of the block.
Oh, crack is bad stuff. The guy that helped me swap in the 3.4 was on Herion. That was a big thrill for me, every day.
Thanks Wayne.
Can we still type ****?
A wrecking yard example.
This New Years Day is the Los Angeles CA local Pick Your Part 1/2 price sale.
COMPLETE RUNNING Engines go for $75.
It's not a valuable engine like an old 265 in a 1955 Corvette. It's a common FWD 60* engine.
FOR THE COST INVOLVED, find a suitable running long block in the yrads and swap it in. Find one with the lowest milage on it.
I did this by finding a used 3.4 longblock w/40K miles on it for $800. I swapped in my engine & it cost me about $900 total.
You'll win cost for the project (a running engine).
IF ya wanna price out parts an such, look to Northern Auto Parts (800-831-0884), then double the price of the parts (for avg. machining costs). Then add length of time for machine cost work and your personal labor to remove, rebuild engine. Don't forget to add gaskets and extra parts, too.
Like I said, find a good running engine.
In Maine, they should be a dime a dozen. Body of car rust, the engine is in good shape. I have relatives in Maine, I know what the junk yard cars look like.
You said your cam is cracked. That's sounds as good for the core engine you want to rebuild as a rod thru the side of the block.
Oh, crack is bad stuff. The guy that helped me swap in the 3.4 was on Herion. That was a big thrill for me, every day.
Thanks Wayne.

Can we still type ****?
A wrecking yard example.
This New Years Day is the Los Angeles CA local Pick Your Part 1/2 price sale.
COMPLETE RUNNING Engines go for $75.
Last edited by KED85; Dec 22, 2001 at 04:58 PM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,461
Likes: 0
From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
apologies to crewse04544 & cc hotrod, got cought up in the rush of "youthful indescressions"
crewse04544, I think you should go ahead & rebuild the motor. The knowledge you gain from the experiance will be invaluble down the road.
crewse04544, I think you should go ahead & rebuild the motor. The knowledge you gain from the experiance will be invaluble down the road.
thanks Project: 85 2.8 bird....and thanks everyone else for there advice. however, i do live in maine and 800 dollars isn't exactly a dime a dosen. maybe if your rich but i have no extra money at this point. plus it gives me something to do this winter. i found that the cam isn't cracked, just has a lot of wear on the lobes. what would make a constant knocking in the engine but still feel like it has the same amount of power? at first i thought it was a lifter but they seem to be okay. could one be frozen up? i have the engine out of the car but i haven't taken anything but the intake off so far
crewse04544,
Our local pick your part yard is having a half price sale and the running engines are going for $75 & up.
If you open your local recycler paper or the phone book, I am quite sure you can get a running engine, even installed in your ride by someone else for quite resaonable.
IN MY INSTANCE, I paid $800 for my 3.4 engine to go into my 1985 Firebird.
For my 1985 S-10 Blazer engine, I need, I may be going to the local yards for my necessary 2.8 engine again. I'm going way cheap.
Rebuilding is a very costly investment. Scout out the other options. You'll be on the road, quicker and less dollars outta pocket. I mean, how long do you want to keep this car you're working on?
More than 1-2 years?
Most common machining work goes for the $500 range.
Add the parts cost & gaskets from there.
Our local pick your part yard is having a half price sale and the running engines are going for $75 & up.
If you open your local recycler paper or the phone book, I am quite sure you can get a running engine, even installed in your ride by someone else for quite resaonable.
IN MY INSTANCE, I paid $800 for my 3.4 engine to go into my 1985 Firebird.
For my 1985 S-10 Blazer engine, I need, I may be going to the local yards for my necessary 2.8 engine again. I'm going way cheap.
Rebuilding is a very costly investment. Scout out the other options. You'll be on the road, quicker and less dollars outta pocket. I mean, how long do you want to keep this car you're working on?
More than 1-2 years?
Most common machining work goes for the $500 range.
Add the parts cost & gaskets from there.
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