help
11-16-2017, 10:15 PM
#1
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help
So my 92 3.1 wont idle if i push the gas it boggs and dies. I replace my hole distributior. I bought the car it hasent been on the road since 2006. Its idleing around 400 rpm. I can drive it if i constantly feather the gas and column shift. Help ive only ever had carburetors this is the first mpfi.
11-16-2017, 11:16 PM
#2
Re: help
Did you set and check the timing after replacing the distributor? You need to disconnect the single tan wire connector going along the harness on the firewall before you set base timing. Thats the timing advance wire from the pcm.
edit: Also, did you have this issue before or after replacing the distributor?
edit: Also, did you have this issue before or after replacing the distributor?
11-19-2017, 03:56 PM
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Re: help
Did you set and check the timing after replacing the distributor? You need to disconnect the single tan wire connector going along the harness on the firewall before you set base timing. Thats the timing advance wire from the pcm.
edit: Also, did you have this issue before or after replacing the distributor?
edit: Also, did you have this issue before or after replacing the distributor?
Both and yes i did timing it wont even run at 8-10 before tdc
11-20-2017, 08:06 AM
#5
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Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Re: help
The #1 cylinder is on the passenger side. Unlike many other engines. Can also use #4 which is the center drivers side. Any other cylinder won't trigger the timing light at the correct time.
10° BTDC is the proper setting.
Once the EST/BYPASS connector was closed and the engine restarted, does the timing advance to about 20° BTDC?
RBob.
10° BTDC is the proper setting.
Once the EST/BYPASS connector was closed and the engine restarted, does the timing advance to about 20° BTDC?
RBob.
11-28-2017, 04:11 AM
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: 3.1 l V6
Transmission: Automatic
Re: help
I had a similar issue, except my car would give a code before stalling, claiming to be a MAF/MAP sensor issue.
I also replaced the distributor, including ignition module, and reset the timing, but that only helped a bit.
I found that after fixing a few vacuum leaks, replacing the MAP sensor, replacing the idle air control valve, cleaning the throttle body, and deleting the EVAP cannister, or charcoal cannister if you will, the car behaved normally. I haven't yet replaced the cannister, but I believe it was just a stuck solenoid messing up the air:fuel ratio causing it to stall at idle. All of the other parts made no difference on their own it seemed, but deleting the cannister helped in my case, and it is a free fix to try. Just disconnect the return line from the cannister and plug the vacuum line feeding into it, take for a test drive, and see if that works. If that helps, fix it or properly delete it, there are plenty of threads with instructions.
I also replaced the distributor, including ignition module, and reset the timing, but that only helped a bit.
I found that after fixing a few vacuum leaks, replacing the MAP sensor, replacing the idle air control valve, cleaning the throttle body, and deleting the EVAP cannister, or charcoal cannister if you will, the car behaved normally. I haven't yet replaced the cannister, but I believe it was just a stuck solenoid messing up the air:fuel ratio causing it to stall at idle. All of the other parts made no difference on their own it seemed, but deleting the cannister helped in my case, and it is a free fix to try. Just disconnect the return line from the cannister and plug the vacuum line feeding into it, take for a test drive, and see if that works. If that helps, fix it or properly delete it, there are plenty of threads with instructions.