Long crank cold. Rough idle all time
Long crank cold. Rough idle all time
my 90 bird 3.1 takes a while to start on the first start of the day regardless of ambient temp. Once it starts it takes a couple seconds almost like it is refilling the fuel system. it runs really rough at idle. Driving is fine tons of power ( for what it is ) runs great and smooth at any thing not idling.
I have
changed the injectors
fuel filter
fuel reg
egr valve
air filter.
coolant temp sensor
checked all the vac lines
re set the timing to 12 btdc
new cap and rotor
new 195 thermostat.
any ideas. I can hear the fuel pump priming when I turn the key on and from what I understand about e pumps is they either work or they don’t. Is there ever a case where they don’t pump enough at idle. Car has 146k pretty sure that’s the original pump. It has never stalled or died just runs rough
any hints or ideas would be great.
I have
changed the injectors
fuel filter
fuel reg
egr valve
air filter.
coolant temp sensor
checked all the vac lines
re set the timing to 12 btdc
new cap and rotor
new 195 thermostat.
any ideas. I can hear the fuel pump priming when I turn the key on and from what I understand about e pumps is they either work or they don’t. Is there ever a case where they don’t pump enough at idle. Car has 146k pretty sure that’s the original pump. It has never stalled or died just runs rough
any hints or ideas would be great.
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 16,773
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From: Mile High Country !!!
Car: 1967 Camaro, 91 z28
Engine: Lb9
Transmission: M20
Axle/Gears: J65 pbr on stock posi 10bolt
Re: Long crank cold. Rough idle all time
Doesn’t sound like the proper timing for a 3.1, what happens to fuel pressure during prime ? Peaks to above 40 and holds ?
Junior Member

Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 21
Likes: 1
From: Spokane, Washington
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: Cammed 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 12 bolt
Re: Long crank cold. Rough idle all time
As tuned performance said, check your fuel pressure. There's a valve for checking it on top of where the fuel lines go into the rail. If you haven't tried it already, hop on youtube and find a tutorial on checking your codes on an OBD1 GM ECU.
After that (assuming it doesn't give you your answer) I'd check your IAC. After a while the plug itself and the passages get clogged with carbon and can mess with your idle. I'd recommend taking the valve itself and the passage off and cleaning them both with throttle body cleaner. While you're at it make sure the IAC valve is working properly. There's a video on youtube that goes over diagnosing and resetting them as well.
Next, there's quite a few sensors on there that the computer reads to determine AFR and if any one of them is bad or not connected properly you're gonna get a rough idle. You've already replaced the coolant temp sensor so that's probably fine, but also check your O2 sensor, intake air temp sensor, and your MAP sensor. They should all be on the passenger side of the engine, and the MAP is on the firewall with a vacuum line going to the intake manifold.
After that (assuming it doesn't give you your answer) I'd check your IAC. After a while the plug itself and the passages get clogged with carbon and can mess with your idle. I'd recommend taking the valve itself and the passage off and cleaning them both with throttle body cleaner. While you're at it make sure the IAC valve is working properly. There's a video on youtube that goes over diagnosing and resetting them as well.
Next, there's quite a few sensors on there that the computer reads to determine AFR and if any one of them is bad or not connected properly you're gonna get a rough idle. You've already replaced the coolant temp sensor so that's probably fine, but also check your O2 sensor, intake air temp sensor, and your MAP sensor. They should all be on the passenger side of the engine, and the MAP is on the firewall with a vacuum line going to the intake manifold.
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Bobby_80s
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May 6, 2007 11:59 AM








