I'm looking at a set of KMC Rockstar Wheels, the only ones they have that are in the right bolt pattern is the 18 x 9".

I intend to lower the car about a inch, what would be the best tires to run, size-wise? I wouldn't mind a bigger tire in the back.

Link the wheels:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/km...4300/overview/

I know there meant for trucks, but the app chart on KMC wheels say they'll fit.

 

The BS and bolt pattern will work, but why would you want those heavy (and ugly) things on your car for $200/each?

18" x 9" wheel will fit a 255 or 265 width tire, BTW...

 

Heavy yes, ugly yeah probably as well, but I'm doing a pro touring T/A and honestly, I don't like and GM style wheel for what I'm doing, these match the new paint job pretty well.

After I drop either a 5.3L Vortec or SB 400 in it with Nitrous, I kinda want a little heavy. the cars interior will be just about gutted

 

Arnt those truck wheels?!?! Do you understand the concept of unsprung weight? Because weight in you wheels and lack of weight in your car effect the handling and performance differently... I would think with a "pro touring" car you would want lighter rims... imho...

 

If I could find a set that I like then yes I would go with those, this isn't the only car I'm messing with, I have a 68 GTO that's getting nearly the same treatment, it's already running 980hp on CAM2.

The T/A is for fun, something that is a eye catcher and fun to drive, I just haven't found a set of wheels that grabs me attention, and like I said the OEM / OE looking wheels do nothing for me... and I've looked a CTW wheels and I'm not impressed with the style, there ok, but to each their own, I got the sizes of the BFG Rivals that'll fit, so I'm gonna try that and see.

 

You don't want that type of wheel on a pro touring car! There are hundreds of wheels to pick from in 18" that will fit. You do realize you can most paint wheels any color, including the exact same color as your exterior paint - don't let the color of a wheel determine your choice.

As igotta355z28 said above, you really want to run a lightweight wheel for acceleration and handling purposes. Serious racers spend countless thousands of $ to save a few lbs of unsprung weight - and wheels are both unsprung and rotating; double whammy.

As a rule of thumb, every lb of wheel rotating weight you take off a car is worth 4 to 5lbs of static weight. So if you lose 20lbs of wheel weight (5lbs per wheel), it affects performance as 80 to 100lbs of dead weight does. I have a chumpcar racer who switched from a 35lb to a 20lb wheel with the same tire and he swears the car picked up 25hp in terms of the performance gain in a straight line, not to mention a huge improvement in handling.

A lot of folks dismiss weight when it comes to performance - it is so easy to add more power to make a car faster, right? That is why a 2013 Z28 with 426 hp runs 13.0 and putting that same motor in a 3rd gen at 3400lbs would run 12.0... Ask Miata or Mini folks how they do on the autocross against cars with 3x the power...