Whats up with my b&m shift kit?
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 673
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From: Northern California
Car: 1992 Camaro Z28 & 2k3 Cadillac CTS
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3:43
Whats up with my b&m shift kit?
I know everyone on here is going to tell me to ditch the b&m and get a transgo (if and when i replace the tranny i will go that route) but for now i bought the car off of a buddy of mine who just replaced the tranny and he had this kit installed. The shift from 1-2 will definitely toss you around in your seat. It has all ready broken a transmission mount (rubber). Those things are normal with the firmest shift kit they offer from what ive read, but my question is that at WOT my car shifts fine from 1-2 (about 5300rpm) but it shifts way way too soon into third (about 4000rpm). Is this good/normal? It doesnt seem to have a problem at all accelerating but i'd like to be able to hold second longer. If I try and shift manually with the crappy stock shifter its hard to correctly get it into drive instead blowing it into neutral.
B&M kits usualy:
Drill the 2nd clutch feed hole WAY to big
Replace the accumulator springs w/ spacers
Replace the line bias spring w/ a spacer
and lot of other no-no's.
If you take out the spacers in the 1-2 accumulator (real easy to do) and put a yellow accumulator spring in it, it might make it more bearable.
Drill the 2nd clutch feed hole WAY to big
Replace the accumulator springs w/ spacers
Replace the line bias spring w/ a spacer
and lot of other no-no's.
If you take out the spacers in the 1-2 accumulator (real easy to do) and put a yellow accumulator spring in it, it might make it more bearable.
Supreme Member

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 0
From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
Well reguardless of the B&M bashing (I do my share) Ive read around the board here that this has been a common problems assosiated with freshly rebuilt transmissions. I dont know what caused it but most people were in need of another rebuild shorty after the 1st. If the B&M kit was installed W/O the line bias blocker HD setup there would be far less failures, just think if B&M would invest $5 in firmer accumulator springs and dump the spacers people wouldent have problems at all.
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,969
Likes: 0
From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
Originally posted by SSC
Well reguardless of the B&M bashing (I do my share) Ive read around the board here that this has been a common problems assosiated with freshly rebuilt transmissions. I dont know what caused it but most people were in need of another rebuild shorty after the 1st. If the B&M kit was installed W/O the line bias blocker HD setup there would be far less failures, just think if B&M would invest $5 in firmer accumulator springs and dump the spacers people wouldent have problems at all.
Well reguardless of the B&M bashing (I do my share) Ive read around the board here that this has been a common problems assosiated with freshly rebuilt transmissions. I dont know what caused it but most people were in need of another rebuild shorty after the 1st. If the B&M kit was installed W/O the line bias blocker HD setup there would be far less failures, just think if B&M would invest $5 in firmer accumulator springs and dump the spacers people wouldent have problems at all.
Those that think the B&M kit sucka, think that they don't come with springs!!!!!!

THEY DO!!!!!!!
They just give you the option of using them.

I have the transpak, and in it was a bunch of springs for what they call "towing" mode, or you can use the sleeves/shafts for "street/strip"
That explains a lot.

Now..... as far as the shifting too soon into 3rd..... I don't know. Maybe one of the check ***** fell as the valve body was installed?
Supreme Member

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 0
From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
AJ,
Ive installed many B&M kits in customers cars, I even use thier accumulator spacer in my own 3/4 accumulator (only as a cheap way to firm up 3/4 shift) so dont tell me I dont know what im talking about.
What I was getting at was B&M should use accumulator springs that are strong that would give some cushion in the accumulator but instead they use spacers that in the S/S kit totally block accumulator travel completely.
The only spring that comes in the B&M kit is a purple pressure regulator spring.
Also to be clear that I do know all about the B&M kits I can give you the instructions (note instructions are not on B&M website). 1. Drop pan then valve body. Remove MTV upshift spring, disguard and re-install valve. (this step eliminates the forced 1/2 upshift) 2. S/S only remove line bias valve, replace with blocker rod (this step jacks up the line pressure causing 90% of B&M failures). 3. remove pressure regulator assemble, replace stock spring with purple spring. 4. drill 3 holes in seperator plate. 5. Accumulator HD. 1/2 accumulator add a yellow spacer (this is where they should add springs not spacers) 3/4 accumulator add red spacer. reinstall. S/S, 1/2 add 2 blue spacers 3/4 add 1 blue spacer. The 3/4 is where I admit I used an accumulator spacer from a B&M kit and it did a nice job although firm spring would be better.
Now who doesnt know thier shift kits.
Ive installed many B&M kits in customers cars, I even use thier accumulator spacer in my own 3/4 accumulator (only as a cheap way to firm up 3/4 shift) so dont tell me I dont know what im talking about.
What I was getting at was B&M should use accumulator springs that are strong that would give some cushion in the accumulator but instead they use spacers that in the S/S kit totally block accumulator travel completely.
The only spring that comes in the B&M kit is a purple pressure regulator spring.
Also to be clear that I do know all about the B&M kits I can give you the instructions (note instructions are not on B&M website). 1. Drop pan then valve body. Remove MTV upshift spring, disguard and re-install valve. (this step eliminates the forced 1/2 upshift) 2. S/S only remove line bias valve, replace with blocker rod (this step jacks up the line pressure causing 90% of B&M failures). 3. remove pressure regulator assemble, replace stock spring with purple spring. 4. drill 3 holes in seperator plate. 5. Accumulator HD. 1/2 accumulator add a yellow spacer (this is where they should add springs not spacers) 3/4 accumulator add red spacer. reinstall. S/S, 1/2 add 2 blue spacers 3/4 add 1 blue spacer. The 3/4 is where I admit I used an accumulator spacer from a B&M kit and it did a nice job although firm spring would be better.
Now who doesnt know thier shift kits.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,969
Likes: 0
From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
I don't know the last time you bought a B&M kit, but the Transpak I used did have stronger springs for the accumulator.
I didn't use them, but to be honest, I didn't care if it hurt the tranny or not because once I build the car, another tranny (Hughes) will be going in.
I've had the kit installed for over 1 yr, and 16K miles, and I haven't had one problem (plus the tranny has 184K miles on it).
I'm not exactly easy on the car either.
The sooner I blow the engine/trans, the sooner I can convince my wife I need to change stuff.
I didn't use them, but to be honest, I didn't care if it hurt the tranny or not because once I build the car, another tranny (Hughes) will be going in.I've had the kit installed for over 1 yr, and 16K miles, and I haven't had one problem (plus the tranny has 184K miles on it).
I'm not exactly easy on the car either.
The sooner I blow the engine/trans, the sooner I can convince my wife I need to change stuff.
Supreme Member

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 0
From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
AJ, the Shift Improver Kit is what most people buy, the Transpack does have more parts but thier two different things, the SIK only costs $30. The cars that I installed these Shift Improver Kits on all operate fine.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,838
Likes: 4
From: Another world, some other time
Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I got the improver kit and it had no springs. On the 1-2 accum, what I did was use the small spacer in conjunction with the stock spring. (one of my springs was already broken in 4 when I went to put the kit in!
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