Line lock install questions, is this the correct way to do it???
Line lock install questions, is this the correct way to do it???
ok i bought a BIONDO racing linelock , and now i am trying to install it, i already have read through all the troubles people have with getting the right fittings, but that isnt a problem, all i want to know is if the diagram i have below is the correct placement and routing for installation, thanks in advance,
Matt
Matt
Last edited by Fastcamaro87; Dec 12, 2002 at 11:05 PM.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,263
Likes: 168
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
There are many ways to do it but that's the correct way if you need to pass a tech inspection.
Good luck with the installation
Good luck with the installation
is there a better way or more preferred way than the one i illustrated stephen87iroc? i wont be subject to any tech inspections, but if im going through the trouble to install i may as well do it correctly.
thanks
thanks
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Posts: 4,671
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
I hope you did'nt buy a line lock install kit, as it will be worthless as I found out. I ended up just cutting off all the bubble flares and installing "standard" threaded nuts on them, then re-double flared them, nobody in town knew WTF I was talkin about when I tried to explain the conversion fitting from metric to standard and did'nt know what a line lock was for that matter, so I just changed it all over so it'd be easier to work with in the future should problems ever arise and when I do the rear line lock it'll all bolt together with no hassles. The way you have it drawn out is just like it needs to be. There really simple to install, just time consuming cause the lines can be a PITA to finagle, but I'm sure your aware of that if installing this to begin with.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,263
Likes: 168
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
The other way to install it is to mount it between the master cylinder and the combination valve. Apparently it doesn't screw up ABS when done like that or cause the brake light to come on but also won't pass a tech inspection.
Mount it the way you have it in the picture.
Mount it the way you have it in the picture.
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 901
Likes: 1
From: Pembroke Pines, FL
Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: 305
Transmission: T5
when set up like in the pic, do you have to do anything different when bleeding the breaks? and how dose the line lock work? do you need to press the breaks and then hit the switch? i'm kinda confused on how these things work...
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,263
Likes: 168
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
When you step on the brakes fluid passes through the line lock just like normal. The brakes don't know it's there.
To use the line lock step on the brakes or pump them up to build pressure. Push the line lock button (momentary switch only) and release the brakes. The rear brakes will release and the front brakes will stay on until the switch is released.
Line locks are used mostly for doing a burnout. With the rear brakes released, it's easier to do a burnout and no chance of heating up the rear brakes and causing brake fade at the end of the 1/4 mile.
Some people also use the line lock tied in to a 2 step on the starting line.
To use the line lock step on the brakes or pump them up to build pressure. Push the line lock button (momentary switch only) and release the brakes. The rear brakes will release and the front brakes will stay on until the switch is released.
Line locks are used mostly for doing a burnout. With the rear brakes released, it's easier to do a burnout and no chance of heating up the rear brakes and causing brake fade at the end of the 1/4 mile.
Some people also use the line lock tied in to a 2 step on the starting line.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 4,671
Likes: 1
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
Alot of folks down here run front and rear line locks with their 2 step, otherwise they'll push through the lights with just the front only.
IHI , i didnt buy an install kit because about 3 years ago i had to go through the trouble of replacing some brake lines on my car, since then the saga of the bubble flare has been forever burned into my memory,i was planning on cutting and re-flaring the lines for regular fittings.
Jason92Z, i havent taken it to the track yet, because it seems like everytime the oppurtunity arises something else breaks etc. but i did just recently get a g-tech pro , and ill be sure to let u guys know what it runs when i put the transmission back in and get all this stuff hooked up.
thanks everyone for all the helpful info.
Ill let u know how the install goes, maybe post some pics.
Matt
Jason92Z, i havent taken it to the track yet, because it seems like everytime the oppurtunity arises something else breaks etc. but i did just recently get a g-tech pro , and ill be sure to let u guys know what it runs when i put the transmission back in and get all this stuff hooked up.
thanks everyone for all the helpful info.
Ill let u know how the install goes, maybe post some pics.
Matt
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 0
From: Detroit
Car: 89 Camaro I-Roc z
Engine: 305
Transmission: Th700r4
ok so i really want to do this, what is the eaiest and cheapest way to do this?> where do u mount a switch, is it electrical or a ball valve like someone in a earlier post said???
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,263
Likes: 168
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
The line lock in an electric solenoid activated by a momentary stitch. When you push a switch, it sends power to the line lock to activate the solenoid. When you release the switch, power is interupted.
I use a B&M shifter with a Tee handle with a button in it. I push the button with my thumb to use the line lock.
I use a B&M shifter with a Tee handle with a button in it. I push the button with my thumb to use the line lock.
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 796
Likes: 0
From: Derbyshire, United Kingdom
Car: 91 camaro rs
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
You can adjust the pressure going to the rear wheels with this valve. It can be dialled in so the rear wheels lock up JUST BEFORE the rear ones in normal street driving. Before ABS and traction control there were mechanical links between the rear suspension and the proportioning valve to vary the pressure depending on the load in the rear. i.e. more weight, more pressure needed to operate the brakes effectively.
Hope this is clear.
Andy.,
Hope this is clear.
Andy.,
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 901
Likes: 1
From: Pembroke Pines, FL
Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: 305
Transmission: T5
sounds sweet, now i want a line lock and proportioning valve
but how do you adjust it so the rears lock up just before the front? i'm guessing you could go and lock up your breaks and adjust it alittle, but there must be some other way right?
but how do you adjust it so the rears lock up just before the front? i'm guessing you could go and lock up your breaks and adjust it alittle, but there must be some other way right? Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,817
Likes: 1
From: Plano, TX
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 406 Stealth Ram
Transmission: 700R4
GREAT PIC! But, does it really need to be 1186x970 pixels 
I already have my proportioning valve and brake line flare kit, just need to get the line lock and I'll be ready to go
Hmm, maybe I can put that on my Christmas list

I already have my proportioning valve and brake line flare kit, just need to get the line lock and I'll be ready to go
Hmm, maybe I can put that on my Christmas list
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 796
Likes: 0
From: Derbyshire, United Kingdom
Car: 91 camaro rs
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
Rage13
As
As far as I am aware, there is no other way but to go out and lock them wheels up and adjust, lock 'em up and adjust etc!
Andy.
As
As far as I am aware, there is no other way but to go out and lock them wheels up and adjust, lock 'em up and adjust etc!
Andy.
From my understanding, trial and error will be the only way to set it up.
for anyone who wants the part numbers for the line lock and the prop valve here they are:
SBR-LL - $39.95 line lock
WIL-260-2220 - $39.95 adjustable proportioning valve
on top of these items there are a few fittings u will need , and once i complete the install i will post these.
Yeah sorry about the size of the pics, this computer i am on only has paint and thats what i used to make them, so far ive been unsuccessful in making the images smaller, if anyone can crop them and resize, u can email me the pics @ fastcamaro87@aol.com
and ill repost them,
thanks
Matt
for anyone who wants the part numbers for the line lock and the prop valve here they are:
SBR-LL - $39.95 line lock
WIL-260-2220 - $39.95 adjustable proportioning valve
on top of these items there are a few fittings u will need , and once i complete the install i will post these.
Yeah sorry about the size of the pics, this computer i am on only has paint and thats what i used to make them, so far ive been unsuccessful in making the images smaller, if anyone can crop them and resize, u can email me the pics @ fastcamaro87@aol.com
and ill repost them,
thanks
Matt
Fastcamaro87: that linelock that you had a price for, do you just connect the wires to a push button switch or do they hook up to something else. I would like to put a linelock in my car to. maybe I could twist your arm into giving us all a grocery list of the parts you had to by and where you bought them at. asking alot I know.
TRANSAM84 : concerning the wires one is a ground and one will go to a switch and then to a fused positive source, i am still waiting delivery of my adjustable proportioning valve, once i get my hands on it , ill post my complete installation, part numbers, pics , wiring diagrams etc. maybe i should just write a tech article.
what do u guys think, would a tech article be a good idea?
what do u guys think, would a tech article be a good idea?
I know this is an old thread (really old LOL!) but thanks for the diagrams guys. Much appreciated.
I was wondering if any of you have any diagrams or pics of how to install the adjustable Wilwood unit in the car. Or is it best to have it the way that's detailed above, and just make changes after runs?
I was wondering if any of you have any diagrams or pics of how to install the adjustable Wilwood unit in the car. Or is it best to have it the way that's detailed above, and just make changes after runs?
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,089
Likes: 125
From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Originally posted by Stephen 87 IROC
There are many ways to do it but that's the correct way if you need to pass a tech inspection.
Good luck with the installation
There are many ways to do it but that's the correct way if you need to pass a tech inspection.
Good luck with the installation
Is that just an NHRA thing?
I talked to a few tech guys, then teh track manager and they all said it doesn't matter if its between the master and the prop, or the prop and the wheels, as long as its not on a drive wheel.
Additionally, i'd think running it after the prop would be a HUGE safety risk. If you blew a line, both front wheels are dead.
-- Joe
Supreme Member

Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,556
Likes: 28
From: Adrian, Mi, USA
Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird Formula
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
If you blow a front line, you lose both front brakes anyway. (much as GM would like to have us beleive otherwise..... voice of experience.)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,089
Likes: 125
From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Originally posted by ploegi
If you blow a front line, you lose both front brakes anyway. (much as GM would like to have us beleive otherwise..... voice of experience.)
If you blow a front line, you lose both front brakes anyway. (much as GM would like to have us beleive otherwise..... voice of experience.)
-- Joe
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