Widening holes on spohn wonderbar..
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: E. Patchogue, NY
Car: '90 Iroc
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5 spd
Widening holes on spohn wonderbar..
I've heard that you may need to widen the holes on the spohn steering brace (wonderbar) and when I went to install mine I realized I needed to also. I marked off how much material to remove, my question is what should I do about the powdercoating? Is the part going to be prone to rust from the powder coating that gets removed when I widen the wholes? Is there something I should put onto the areas that I drill out or is there no reason for concern? Thanks.
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
I'd just paint it with some thick paint, with you being up north you'll need it. Or you could sanblast the whole thing and coat it with POR-15 and it'll never rust.
Ed
Ed
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
I had to remove part of the material in one of the holes. It didn't line up for some reason.
I put the bar on like it's suppose to go and I noticed I couldn't get a bolt in the hole too. I came to a simple solution.
Mount the bar up with the 3 bolts that you can get in. Then take a pencil or marker or even the bolt itself and make a mark on the other hole that you can't get it to line up. I took it out to my work bench fired up my die grinder with carbide bit and took out about 1 to 2 mm out of the hole where the mark was. (If you don't have a die grinder a dremel will work too... or even a drill but that metal is really thick as you know.) I wouldn't cut too much out at once either... do a little bit see how it fits and if it still doesn't line up right with bolt cut it out more... I think if you slot them out too far it might weaken the design since that bolt would have a slotted effect and the bar would beable to flex a little under heavy turns. Then I went back and put the bar on the bolts went together fine. I noticed people are even having to do that with the spohn bars too. The bar only fits one way so just put it on so you can get 3 bolts in it and cut the last one like I mentioned.
It shouldn't be a too big of a deal where it's cut out since it's pretty small you could put a dab of paint or por-15 on it if you wanted to. I put mine on without anything on the metal but I have a pint worth of por-15 coming so I probably take it back off and put a dab of that on it so it doesn't rust.
I put the bar on like it's suppose to go and I noticed I couldn't get a bolt in the hole too. I came to a simple solution.
Mount the bar up with the 3 bolts that you can get in. Then take a pencil or marker or even the bolt itself and make a mark on the other hole that you can't get it to line up. I took it out to my work bench fired up my die grinder with carbide bit and took out about 1 to 2 mm out of the hole where the mark was. (If you don't have a die grinder a dremel will work too... or even a drill but that metal is really thick as you know.) I wouldn't cut too much out at once either... do a little bit see how it fits and if it still doesn't line up right with bolt cut it out more... I think if you slot them out too far it might weaken the design since that bolt would have a slotted effect and the bar would beable to flex a little under heavy turns. Then I went back and put the bar on the bolts went together fine. I noticed people are even having to do that with the spohn bars too. The bar only fits one way so just put it on so you can get 3 bolts in it and cut the last one like I mentioned.
It shouldn't be a too big of a deal where it's cut out since it's pretty small you could put a dab of paint or por-15 on it if you wanted to. I put mine on without anything on the metal but I have a pint worth of por-15 coming so I probably take it back off and put a dab of that on it so it doesn't rust.
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